BajaF250

[BajaF250]

Does your truck still have the stock pivots in front? A pictures of how the beams mount?

Hey Chris,
Sorry, but this is the best picture I have right now, but the axle housings are attached in the stock location with the stock hardware. The picture is of the jig mock up when building the front end. It's an actual front section of the frame I used to design, build and cycle the front "A-beam" components. I've never had any problems with the mounts. I did not use drop downs as it adds a difficult geometry problem. To correct the geometery without drop downs, I pulled the bottom ball joint out ¾" which gives 0 camber/caster cam at about 4" of lift. This all gives me 11" of uptravel and 7" of down travel. The limit on down travel is the u-joint on the passenger side of the front axle. To reach that amount of down travel, I had to clearance the u-joint for added defection (without sacraficing strength of the u-joint itself).

[SteveG]

Would you like me to dig around and see if I can find the templates?

Absolutely! I think it rocks with the stock bumper in place. My original plan was to build a tube bumper and ditch the stock chrome but I just don't want the extra attention. I really do prefer the whole "Speak softly...." thing.

[BajaF250]

Ok, I'll dig around this weekend and see what I come up with. Plus you can check out how it's all mounted in a couple of weeks up at Pismo.

[convoy]

The limit on down travel is the u-joint on the passenger side of the front axle. To reach that amount of down travel, I had to clearance the u-joint for added defection (without sacraficing strength of the u-joint itself).

That's the biggest problem I'm facing with my widened beams. Any pics or suggestions on how to successfully remove excess material from the u-joint (i.e grinding wheel, carbit bit, etc.)

I'm assuming this is the most successful way (link - Look at bottom of page http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazin ... apring.htm), but I would like to keep the axles in the housing so I can keep cycling the suspension. Also I'm lazy and don't want to pull the axles again.

[BajaF250]

The limit on down travel is the u-joint on the passenger side of the front axle. To reach that amount of down travel, I had to clearance the u-joint for added defection (without sacraficing strength of the u-joint itself).

That's the biggest problem I'm facing with my widened beams. Any pics or suggestions on how to successfully remove excess material from the u-joint (i.e grinding wheel, carbit bit, etc.)

I'm assuming this is the most successful way (link - Look at bottom of page http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazin ... apring.htm), but I would like to keep the axles in the housing so I can keep cycling the suspension. Also I'm lazy and don't want to pull the axles again.

Hey Griffin,
Actually, that's a great article. I had my axles machined so I could get full c-clips in place. This makes a huge difference in u-joint strenght and longevity. Those darn half-clips really don't stay in very well and once they pop out, you loose your trunion caps... So, a machinist down here that owed us a favor machined my axles to receive the full c-clips. Then, I clearenced the yoke with a carbide bit on a die grinder. I did it exactly as depicted in the article. Unfortunately, if you want to make your axles as strong as you can with the added front end travel, you'll have to pull out your axles to work the yokes for both the c-clips and to clearance the yokes/u-joints. It really is worth it in the end, especially if you won't have to pull the axles because you broke your u-joint...

[PaulW]

[
Hey Griffin,
Actually, that's a great article. I had my axles machined so I could get full c-clips in place. This makes a huge difference in u-joint strenght and longevity. Those darn half-clips really don't stay in very well and once they pop out, you loose your trunion caps... So, a machinist down here that owed us a favor machined my axles to receive the full c-clips. Then, I clearenced the yoke with a carbide bit on a die grinder. I did it exactly as depicted in the article. Unfortunately, if you want to make your axles as strong as you can with the added front end travel, you'll have to pull out your axles to work the yokes for both the c-clips and to clearance the yokes/u-joints. It really is worth it in the end, especially if you won't have to pull the axles because you broke your u-joint...

======
Hmmm, We use a bolted pumpkin. No c clips and in case of a broken crossover joint there is no need mess with the center section. The cost for the mod was nominal and we use the same gear set. Yes, we all clearance the C/O joint. Standard practice for both items. I thought everyone did these items?
PW

[BajaF250]

[
Hey Griffin,
Actually, that's a great article. I had my axles machined so I could get full c-clips in place. This makes a huge difference in u-joint strenght and longevity. Those darn half-clips really don't stay in very well and once they pop out, you loose your trunion caps... So, a machinist down here that owed us a favor machined my axles to receive the full c-clips. Then, I clearenced the yoke with a carbide bit on a die grinder. I did it exactly as depicted in the article. Unfortunately, if you want to make your axles as strong as you can with the added front end travel, you'll have to pull out your axles to work the yokes for both the c-clips and to clearance the yokes/u-joints. It really is worth it in the end, especially if you won't have to pull the axles because you broke your u-joint...

======
Hmmm, We use a bolted pumpkin. No c clips and in case of a broken crossover joint there is no need mess with the center section. The cost for the mod was nominal and we use the same gear set. Yes, we all clearance the C/O joint. Standard practice for both items. I thought everyone did these items?
PW

Sorry I wasn't clear on this... I wasn't referring to the c-clips in the differential to retain the axles. I replaced the u-joint trunion c-clips with snap rings to keep the yoke trunion caps in place under load. I too use a bolted flange to retain the axle.

[Ian]

I've done and completely understand everything talked about above. Except for where do you get the bolted flange conversion for the diff to eliminate the c-clips, and how does it works? Pics please.

[SteveG]

I've done and completely understand everything talked about above. Except for where do you get the bolted flange conversion for the diff to eliminate the c-clips, and how does it works? Pics please.

The older TTB differentials have a bolt-on flange... yours should have this unless you're using a later model diff.

[PaulW]

I've done and completely understand everything talked about above. Except for where do you get the bolted flange conversion for the diff to eliminate the c-clips, and how does it works? Pics please.

=======
FInd them at a JY. '80s diffs were bolted. To lazy to dig up a pic onut of my thousands of folders. Anyway, where the axle enters the diff you will see a plate with 3 or 4 bolts (either are OK depends on the year). These bolts hold the bearing into the diff body. Look closely in the JY because these old trucks are caked with mud & grease from years of neglect.

Yes, the c clip joints are less reliable. The snap ring is much better. In my wifes 06 Jeep one can create enough stress when it is all locked up to flex the joint and cause the snap ring to depart. Then after a few miles the joint falls apart. On the desert Bronco I did not bother and have had no issues. I use a limited slip (Trutrac) in front so the lock up stress is just not there. Lots of hard desert miles and no issues an any joints. DC CVs do require rebuild , but not any joints.
Paul

PW

[BDKW1]

Yes, the c clip joints are less reliable. The snap ring is much better.

The clip isn't really the problem, it's the cap rotating under heavy loads that spits the clip out. A small tack weld on the cap will end this problem.

[kahuna bill]

wow, what a build! Nicely done!
I saw your truck two or three months ago at john's. It looked really clean and simple and that's what caught my eye at first. But when i looked in the wheel well i could tell you had some good work done to her. To keep it clean and non flashy while maintaining a practical suspension is impressive. Good job. and thanks for sharing the photos.

[BajaF250]

Thanks... next time you're by, come in and grab me so we can meet!

[ChaseTruck754]

After seeing this thing in person this weekend I am possibly re-thinking the plan for the supercab a bit. I would love it if I can pull off something as clean as your truck Tom. Love this thing more and more every time I see it now!

[BajaF250]

Cool, if I can inspire something other than sniggers, I've accomplished some goodness! Thanks Steve...

[Nick]

Saturday was my first ride in a longer wheelbase vehicle, and Tom, i gotta say, you have me thinking about getting a truck.


Did i just say that!?


I will never forget the look on those young quad riders faces, as the "old man" truck blew by them doing 60 through the woops!

[philofab]

Cool, if I can inspire something other than sniggers, I've accomplished some goodness! Thanks Steve...

Hopefully some people will learn that shock tuning is more important than anything else... I still can't believe how smooth that thing was.

[BajaF250]

Saturday was my first ride in a longer wheelbase vehicle, and Tom, i gotta say, you have me thinking about getting a truck.

Ohhh, do I hear a convert?
Did i just say that!?


I will never forget the look on those young quad riders faces, as the "old man" truck blew by them doing 60 through the woops!

That is the best part... the grandpa rig blow'in by where it's unexpected! Fun

[SteveG]

I started to look at extended cab and crew cab Fords yesterday on craigslist... then I told my self to stop looking before I did something stupid and create more work for myself!

I gotta say, Tom, you and the crew at Autofab really outdid yourselves on BajaF250. The end result simple and to the point yet so perfectly executed for its intended purpose. Congrats, you've got groupies!

[BajaF250]

Hey Philo, to answer your question last Sunday, I have the large diameter short shaft out of the front diff... I've had a difficult time finding replacements.