GoFastBroncos.com

S00TLYFE wrote:damn trav you got them quick too, took me over a week to get mine. stoked for you.

After I saw yours I had to look and got super lucky too! Thank you haha.

somehow us 5x5.5 guys got lucky because all my ranger or metric bp guys tried to do that but they had the prices right for all those other ones

Curious on choice of 10" wide. What was the reason you went so wide?

hollandermotorsports wrote:Curious on choice of 10" wide. What was the reason you went so wide?

Because it was $400+ less than the other sizes. If they don't work I can always sell them for what I have into them.

Getting 1" Uniball cups in my beams.



I was able to ground out the welds on the beam ends to get the old bushing cup out. You can see how much of a hole I need to make to fit the 1" Uniball cups. I used a 2-5/8" hole saw from the inside. And it didn't take long at all to get through. I kind of used the inside lip as a guide for the hole saw and it worked fine.

Uniballs will be tight. Wish I did that on mine while I had them off.

S00TLYFE wrote:Uniballs will be tight. Wish I did that on mine while I had them off.

It was a lot easier than I though it was going to be.

Once you get the one side weld ground down you can leverage the other weld off.



Grind down the old weld



Hole saw the rest out.

Now I just need to get it to a 220v welder to make sure it will stay welded. I think it's a bit too thick for my 140 Lincoln mig. I went to kartek and they had 2-1/2" diameter cups and 2-5/8 diameter cups. I went with the 2-5/8 for strength. I think they were like $20 a piece. I am probably going to have to grind down the edges from 1.5" tall to 1.4" tall as everyone seems to be doing. I am thinking of putting some plate on the beams, maybe a truss. Gotta figure out how to deal with the fluid fill cap I guess.

Nice job!!

Looks great!

The only thing I would recommend is have then turned on a lathe vs. a grinder-- I have found numerous small machine shops that work for about $60hr and this is about a 20 minute for each job. I forget the width but skinny those up as much as possible within reason. The decrease in width is a big help to making sure all of the parts are not hitting anything while moving through the travel. RMC on here is affordable as well and quite capable of this type operation.

What are the benefits of a lathe vs grinding them? I've always wondered.

Using a Lathe keeps everything semetrical so you don't get weak area's or end up over heating a part which creates a possible failure point. On my beams, I used 7/8 uniballs with the thicker cup to give me more metal to tig weld to. That was at the recommendation of Glen who built Chris Wilson's Yellow early Race Bronco. He is the one that showed me how to build the beams.

On my new extended set, I am moving the oil filler hole up, like this. It is done this way on Wilson's Race Bronco. Then a truss will go under it.




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Been trying to get more done but I've been so busy working on this mud truck for a customer.



Putting in a rear cage, rock sliders, new seats, and a custom dash to replace the factory one that is falling apart.

Can't swing a dead cat without hitting a truck like that down here, but not something I'd expect to see in SoCal.

Broncow wrote:Can't swing a dead cat without hitting a truck like that down here, but not something I'd expect to see in SoCal.

things got Azusa written all over it. cool to see one that isn't a chevy k series

Yup, Azusa truck for sure. LOTS of Fords up there. Tons of broncos and old Fords a buddy of mine did SAS on etc.

Anyone have any experience with headlights like these?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1221219897 ... 6ct%3Duljs

Was thinking of putting in 6" led bars for headlights but these look cleaner.

These are the bars I was thinking about

https://www.ebay.com/itm/351829829084


Wanted to run 2 of them inside each headlight bezel. One for high beam one for low beam.

Just saw this stepside on IG. Not a fan of the wheels but it looks cool.

Found a few pics of when I first picked this truck up.