95 F150 - Project Marilyn

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Aug 07, 2016 11:11 pm

The AIRB line on the Lightning looks like it's non existent possibly. The canister purge solenoid on the Lightning is also showing going to the manifold. If I don't have a canister purge solenoid is that going to cause any issues with the engine you think? I'm not worried about making smog refs happy btw.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Aug 08, 2016 3:30 pm

Well theres no color on the Lightning which makes me wonder if that line exists.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Aug 14, 2016 1:24 pm

Finally got the intake bolted down, all the plumbing for the Lightning upper sorted out and oil in the crankcase. Just need to get the hoses/lines for the trans installed so I can test fire the engine without making a huge mess! So close I can taste the exhaust!!

Here's also a pic of the stock coil bracket I massaged and made to fit on the a/c bracket- hopefully a tad cooler than in the back of the engine

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sat Aug 27, 2016 11:56 am

Got some parts I fabbed up powdercoated and some cool guy Hella Sharptone horns. Modified the factory trans lines to accept -6an lines for a big cooler up front (more on that later)....

toddz69 · Post by **toddz69** » Sun Aug 28, 2016 8:41 pm

Compression fittings or some such for those AN fittings to the stock lines?

Todd Z.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:53 am

While the trans lines have almost no pressure that really matters I'm just not a fan of compression fittings after seeing them used in oilfield treater applications. The factory lines are 5/16" so you 37* flare and use a -5an to -6an male/male adapter- never see an issue doing it this way.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Sep 05, 2016 12:02 pm

Got fuel pressure to the engine, then finished up a killer set of plug wires and I got a quick 1/2 second fire and shut her down. So great for morale to know the engine kicked over.

Then started on the trans mount - the squiggly sharpie marker line denotes approx the material I'm going to remove to keep airflow to the radiator flowing.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Sep 05, 2016 1:44 pm

I was able to get the fuel pump to prime the system fully. Finished a killer set of plug wires, then heard the engine kick over for about a 1/2 second and I shut it down. It's so good for morale to know the engine is fine and ready to run!!! Got the transmission cooler mount about 8O% done and mocked up.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:11 pm

Finally got the trans cooler mount done---mount finished and powdercoated, lines made, and clamps oriented. Hope like hell itau

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sat Oct 01, 2016 10:52 pm

Man I wanna have dual Trophy Truck spares so bad !!

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sat Oct 01, 2016 11:22 pm

Man I wanna have dual Trophy Truck spares so bad !!

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:33 pm

Does anyone make centered 6" rear bedsides? The autofab ones which is what these are-- they are too far back unless I move them really far forward like in the pic.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:34 pm

The bedside

AussieRod · Post by **AussieRod** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 3:52 am

Cut and shut the rear of the bed to match. You're going this far, why stop now?

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 12:44 pm

Rod what does cut and shut the rear end mean?

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:27 pm

You could just run these similar to what you have them set up like in the pic above. Do it like a bronco bedside is done & keep the stock tail light surround area & just cut that part off the fiberglass bedsides.

The only slightly tricky part there is cutting the taper behind the wheel well, but from the looks of the pics you could cut it at the bod line below the tail light & keep most of the fiberglass bedside in that section & it could look good.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 6:47 pm

Honestly I like the idea of keeping the factory tail light and do it just like a Bronco. I have a call into Autofab to see if the can make what I need- I'll know probably by Wednesday as John is coming back from Mexico. If they do then I'll buy a set if not I have to figure out how to add the little pieces to fill in closer to the tail light.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 6:50 pm

Bedcages anyone ever run in a F150 the design where the bolt the bedcage to the floor and not the frame? Patrick did it awhile back on his "The Wife Made Me Do It" truck. Seems much easier but maybe not as stout.

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Tue Oct 04, 2016 12:33 am

Well the bed floor is not the thickest metal. I know the bed bolts are a pain in the butt to remove. I'm not sure I would trust a bed cage that isn't bolted to the frame when it has a shock mounted to it.

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Tue Oct 04, 2016 11:15 am

My buddy did a nice bed cage that used the bed bolts as mounts. I believe he reinforced the mounts and used grade 8 hardware. It was super clean and when the guy decided to go to link/full cage he was able to the complete rear with susp, cage and bed with mounted fiberglass as a package. It was a cool setup.

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