95 F150 - Project Marilyn

[funinthesun95]

Well when a nicely used Raptor have dropped to $26k a $14k engine seems like nonsense but that’s just me. The 408 is still a 351 based engine-$7500 delivered is about my max max MAX otherwise the cost seems like nonsense. There’s going to come a point where a 2013 F150 4x4 with a 5.0 in a Platinum trim with some miles is cheaper to put beams and supercharger on than a 1995 with a all the doodads. At that point a 1995 won be cool because well a 2013 starts with 360hp if I recall right and the 2013 frame is nicer and the interior is already killer ... and ... and ... and

There is a point where I’ve taken this truck where it’s the point of very diminishing returns.... man I’m a serious buzzkill!!

lots of guys will pay well for a 2013 beam kit now if someone would build and sell them....just saying. They are paying a lot for the A-Arm stuff now as is and want more out of them..... hah


but you are 100% correct.

[VintageIronFab]

Robert- theres $26k raptors all over! Not with 25k miles but they are everywhere- especially the 2010’s

[VintageIronFab]

She’s getting a couple spruced and juiced upgrades in the steering dept! The Saginaw box out of the E350 is nice but it was too hard to steer! Not going with a ram or hydro boost at the moment but I’ve got everything ready when I do!! I’d LOVE to see a 90* hydroboost bracket for the firewall of our trucks- I think that would be killer! Awesome braking power and more room for activities in the engine bay!!

[VintageIronFab]

This is how I’ve decided to put new u-joints on my steering shaft. First a little back story- I bought a non Borgeson shaft and it was really loose. So I got to looking the factory shaft and made a couple conclusions—is very nicely made, probably not possible to duplicate in the aftermarket and really should not need replaced. The joints and the “rubber rag joint” are a completely different story. A typical 3/4”DD to 3/4”DD works perfect at the upper joint under the dash. The joint at the steering box is another story. You simply cut back about 1” from the back of the ragjoint. Then a little piece of 2” round stock is turned down to fit 1” inside the factory shaft then the 1” round stock is milled to make a DD configuration. Thing fits perfect and you retain all the really nice factory Ford engineering that went into the original. This method is a slightly more work than buying a new shaft but I think this is a bit better.

[VintageIronFab]

I’m contemplating moving the battery to the bed of the truck. Partially for the weigh distribution benefits but also because I want to mount a power inverter inside the bed box- which consequently is much closer to the battery. Any recommendations for an inverter would be great - wanna be able to power batteries for tools, run a grinder, power a couple lights or hell maybe a blender lol!

[AussieRod]

3000W sine wave, as a minimum, if you want to use power tools. Sine wave because it works with coodless tool chargers. I have one to fit to my truck at a later date.

[S00TLYFE]

not sure why i havent already subscribed to this thread. subbed.

[VintageIronFab]

Well if I want an inverter mounted in the bed and leave the battery in the factory spot I’m looking at officially about 15’ of 2/0 cable from the battery to the bed box. So I think running an angle grinder is a great goal but being able to charge the cordless batteries is a better goal upon further review. I probably will modify the inverter to be able to run a 110V plug into the cab - no idea why but why not lol. Anyone know if 15’ of 2/0 cable will work one of these 2 inverters...

https://m.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-c ... 63432.html

https://m.harborfreight.com/2000-watt-c ... 63429.html

I know they are HF but it’s all made in Chiwan or you buy $1000 mil-spec stuff

[ChaseTruck754]

If you need the cable let me know. I have a whole bunch of 2/0 sitting here in the garage from various projects. Should have 15' easy and may save you some cash. Shipping will suck, but I may be able to roll tight enough to ship in a flat rate box??

[Bajaluv]

I’ve enjoyed your build thread for a long time, killer details man. I’m curious on how it’s going converting to OBD2, have you competed the switch over ? Maybe we can chat sometime and I can get some tips from ya. I’m having my own struggles. Lately I have a had great input from Vegas Steve lol, that’s what I call him at least. He is full of years of Ford knowledge, but he’s in Vegas am I’m in San Diego.


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[VintageIronFab]

Yea mine has been converted over and it’s not a huge issue. Had it all dyno tuned and fairly decent results. My biggest thing is to go get a donor and pull every inch of wiring that includes behind the dash FYI. The conversion companies IMO are less than knowledgeable just to be very polite. Some of the facts they tell you aren’t remotely correct. If you have an E4OD I’d bet anything the wiring on a 5.0 and 5.8 are the exact same. If you have the other transmissions I’m not sure about. The only thing I’m 100% sure of is get it dyno tuned as it makes the issues all fixed.

[Bajaluv]

Yea mine has been converted over and it’s not a huge issue. Had it all dyno tuned and fairly decent results. My biggest thing is to go get a donor and pull every inch of wiring that includes behind the dash FYI. The conversion companies IMO are less than knowledgeable just to be very polite. Some of the facts they tell you aren’t remotely correct. If you have an E4OD I’d bet anything the wiring on a 5.0 and 5.8 are the exact same. If you have the other transmissions I’m not sure about. The only thing I’m 100% sure of is get it dyno tuned as it makes the issues all fixed.

Yes I have an E4od so USshift and Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFi was gonna be my back up. But Yea I’ve been told to find me a donor 96 4x4 and pull harness. Honestly this is above my pay grade, probably need to outsource this lol. Meshing my 91 bronco to a 96 motor has been a hurdle.


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[VintageIronFab]

Sorta truck related- having been without a real bolt-bin for like 15 months it’s so damn nice to have one to go to. I’d tell anyone big or small- having 80% of the fasteners you have in your own stock is just a game changer!

A slot style MAF like you see on newer vehicles is so much nicer than the old MAF dinosaur of the past!

These little cable tie mounts as they are called are nice to use to mount a wire loom, hoses or any lines that aren’t really hot or weigh a lot — just a #8 fastener if your choosing!

[VintageIronFab]

Pass thru-
So on these old OBS trucks/Broncos there is no “pass-thru” for wires to easily and cleanly go thru and the area to do it is even harder to find! Well I think I’ve possibly found about the only spot. It’s literally right next to a factory position and is accessible to add wires as needed from both sides.

Broken dash fixes-
I like most of you have broke-ass dash pieces all over. So my fix is to fab up any tab that has broken or cracked out of 18ga steel,apply epoxy and pop-rivet when clearance permits to create a bigger bonded washer to hopefully spread the load. I also modified the dash so that the dash cover can easily be removed without a nightmare due to about 3 screws that came in from the backside. It’s a fair amount of work but I think it’s going to be worth the effort and hassle.

[Becks_Bronco]

This is how I’ve decided to put new u-joints on my steering shaft. First a little back story- I bought a non Borgeson shaft and it was really loose. So I got to looking the factory shaft and made a couple conclusions—is very nicely made, probably not possible to duplicate in the aftermarket and really should not need replaced. The joints and the “rubber rag joint” are a completely different story. A typical 3/4”DD to 3/4”DD works perfect at the upper joint under the dash. The joint at the steering box is another story. You simply cut back about 1” from the back of the ragjoint. Then a little piece of 2” round stock is turned down to fit 1” inside the factory shaft then the 1” round stock is milled to make a DD configuration. Thing fits perfect and you retain all the really nice factory Ford engineering that went into the original. This method is a slightly more work than buying a new shaft but I think this is a bit better.

Wanna build me one of these? I’ve been looking at the Borgeson shaft, but I like he idea of keeping a majority of the factory parts and just tightening up all the wobble.

One of my work trucks is an ‘18 Ram 3500 Cummins 4x4, and it steers very precisely, and tracks straight. I don’t see why I can’t get my Bronco to do the same once all the sloppy old parts are gone through.

[VintageIronFab]

let me see what I can do- I might be able to get something done. This may sound really odd but what’s a piece like this honestly worth?

[VintageIronFab]

Very trival I know but i can’t explain how paint on these boots that go between the body and door genuinely piss me off- these were cleaned once before. Gawd I hate shitty painters! Got a replacement and with some dish soap and a brush the replacement turned out nice! The boot btw is dry.

[funinthesun95]

I love this build and truck. You keep making old ford new.so rad!

[VintageIronFab]

Glad you like it Hopefully I’m almost done with the never really being driven part lol! Btw when old rubber is cleaned with a heavy bristle brush with soap and water it just looks new again— then you like soak it in a bag with like Mothers runner restore sauce-kinda like a marinade - you’ll be blown away how the parts return back to a former glory! Much cheaper but more importantly the parts actually fit!

[VintageIronFab]

Runner = Rubber. So incredibly lame that this site can’t edit!