GoFastBroncos.com

Just curious, how does everyone set up their spindle nuts for the dual 4 prong setup? Torque wise,I've seen a million different recomendations. I ended up doing 50ft lbs to seat, then backed off about 90 degrees and torqued the outer to 150, but my front end seems alittle noisy.

Also, has anyone ever seen a factory setup with auto 4x4 inside the truck, but 3 bolt manual hubs? Curious if it was converted to manuals at some point.. If not it sounds like I have an oddball setup. My truck uses 1 piece hub seals too, which I thought ended in 94.. Who knows.

Any info would be appreciated!

The hubs do look aftermarket. 95 was a weird year for the hubs they went to 3 bolt half way through the year and a different spindle nut design.

Cool, another broke college kid build haha if you're ever in SoCal near Cal State San Marcos hit me up. This things clean, makes my Bronc look filthy

Thinking I might be losing my head gaskets. What's your guys recommendation to check for a head gasket leak? This things starting to idle alittle rough and steam and smell sweet on startup, runs perfect when it's warm though. No oil in the coolant or vice versa. Might be loosing the tiniest bit of coolant, but super slowly to the point where I'm not even quite sure.

I just learned how to do this from RMC. When you first start up your truck remove the radiator cap and watch for burping bubbles in the coolant.

Cool, thanks dude! How likely am I to blow coolant out of the radiator everywhere haha?

you should see the burps before the engine gets to temp & the radiator heats that much so as to spray. Plus it would only spray if you removed the cap with the thing hot. It would expand and just spill out the open radiator cap area with no cap on it.

Alright cool, thanks guys. Trucks never overheated (that I know of) so I'm hoping worst case scenario, I can get away with new gaskets and maybe a head resurface. The thing did just roll 170k though

Have you checked your riming cover gasket? Its where the 351w is prone to leak coolant. I know because mine is lol.

Not really no. My main fear is the slight sweet smell upon startup, as well as the little bit of a rough idle that goes away once the trucks warm. My truck also has a stock oil cooler, that I've heard can cause some coolant in the oil as well. I've even heard that if a trucks running rich it can smell kind of sweet, regardless I have some issue that needs to be tracked down..

Just popped the cap and checked for bubbles, It was a little hard to tell but I think all I saw was circulation, not really and burbling

Check your timing cover. Mine leaks on the driverside.

Will do, also did a block test that came up completely negative, so I don't think I have a head gasket problem (thank the lord)

That is definitely worth praising!

What would you assume if when performing the block test when cold, I could get the fluid to turn a darker, slightly greenish tinge of blue? could I have a minor head gasket leak when cold, but upon warmup it deals? What's a completely conclusive do it yourself test?

Threw in a punisher towing valve body and a completely rebuild rear end with 4.56s over the weekend, truck feels great! EXCEPT this tranny issue I've been facing.

Before the punisher, reverse would be pretty hard when the truck was cold (would be alleviated with a quick bump to drive first) and 1-2nd was alittle firm intermittently. As in, from light to light it'd be firm, and then smooth as can be.

Since the Valve body, all of these issues have gotten progressively worse. 1-2 could be hard, or smooth and quick. Reverse hits hard as well with the tranny up to operating temps, but feels fine upon first reversal. Progressively all up shifts got rougher until it felt pretty off. Before anyone asks, it has a new motorcraft MLPS and vss, tps is a new autozone unit that tests perfectly. All connections have been checked, greased, cleaned, etc. new fluid/filter. Vb is torqued correctly, psom is a new (to me) junkyard unit.

Any suggestions where to look? Maybe a bad solenoid? There aren't any codes though.

MLPS is adjusted correctly?
Did you verify the vast number of old valve body and Punisher match?
The punisher will have significantly firmer shifts. Did you order street or full blown from Paul.

I'd call him. Awesome customer service when I had issues.

From what my eyes tell me, yes. I haven't checked voltages yet. I'm also getting a bit of a brownish fluid from the sensor, which is super odd?

I did check though, it's a 96 casting but he drills exhaust holes to remedy any inconsistencies. I've been emailing him as well, and he seemed alittle stumped.

My main thing is that I was having some slightly firm 1-2 shifts even before ( though I've heard it isn't overly rare). I picked up his tow valve body by the way, he said it's the way he sets up most Broncos and 4x4 f150s.

Are you using a artcarr shifter or stock? There is an issue with the shift locate rod with those and cannot be set up correctly with out modifying the MLPS.

Nope, for all intents and purposes motor and tranny are 100% stock. For all I know, I might just be overacting and the computer just needs to figure everything out still. The shifts aren't so jarring that I'm hearing metal on metal thuds or it feels like limp mode or anything.