GoFastBroncos.com

jkrell wrote:

VintageIronFab wrote: maybe there is another GFB member that can give some more insight into why this would cause my issue?

I have a similar issue. I'll try the bypass and report back.
Thanks for the info.

I'm guessing with the thermostat closed the circuit is between the intake manifold and the heater core closed loop. Then when the thermostat opens it goes full loop meaning both through the heater core as well as the block. In my mind this is to get the heads to normal operating temp faster to ensure a good burn on the fuel air mixture as well as get the cab warmed up if the heater were on. After it get to whatever the thermostat open temp is the thermostat would open to cycle both sides of the circuit together or both circuits simultaneously.
With the heater core clogged the therm opens, is quickly cooled by the radiator coolant, closes, then stuck back in the heater core loop causing the temp to skyrocket and agian opening the therm. It makes sense if you think of it as 2 separate circuits both being run together but only the radiator side being regulated via the thermostat. The only common area between the 2 circuits is inside of the water pump housing.( Remember the 2 small ports at the top and the big area is regulated by the thermostat inside the water pump housing). Good info to keep in the back of my mind if I ever see that kind of issue. I appreciate you sharing.

I've never had a clogged one, only leakers.

Knocked the dust of the torchmate today and got some rear shock mounts cut out for the F1. Hoping to get the front tank notched and the rear suspension cycled the next couple of days.



I don't get to fab much anymore but I can't seem to part with this thing....best thing that happened to the fabricator since the hammer. If any GFB members ever need anything cut and your around upland drop me a line.

That is one fancy tool to have at your disposal.

Ya back when I had a shop and was racing and prepping cars I used it everyday so I got used to having one. Totally spoiled me. When I shut the shop down I downsized to the smaller 2x2 but I don't think I'll ever fab without one again. They are incredible time and frustration savers.

Looks like it would definitely save a ton of time and frustration. Didn't know you were in Upland. I am too. I'll about check out your flareside some time.

Jkrell,

The torchmate has caught my interest lately. If you don't mind, Run us through how those shock mounts became reality. Did you make a cardboard template or just measure and sketch the shape on the computer. Or, is the entire suspension modeled on the computer so you can design and check clearances etc all on the Computer?

Thanks,
Brent

highroad wrote:Jkrell,

The torchmate has caught my interest lately. If you don't mind, Run us through how those shock mounts became reality. Did you make a cardboard template or just measure and sketch the shape on the computer. Or, is the entire suspension modeled on the computer so you can design and check clearances etc all on the Computer?

Thanks,
Brent

Torchmate software only uses 2D Cad software and even that is pretty poor in my opinion. If i'm going to draw a part usually I use Solid Edge 2d which is a free 2d software that works pretty well. I don't have a 3d modeling software so i'm not drawing full suspension setups and cycling.

Most of my parts start as paper templates, then I scan them with just a standard flat bed scanner. Then sketch a drawing based on the paper template, create tool paths, and cut out the part. From paper template to cut out part is probably 10-15 minutes, faster when I was doing it a lot. For the first 15 years I was fabricating I cut everything by hand either on a bandsaw or with a plasma and now that i've used a cnc plasma i'll never go back. Depending on the complexity of the part I think it takes about a quarter of the time....and if you are cutting out multiple of the same part or if the part is complex the time saving just goes up from there. All that said I think the 3k or so investment in a basic torchmate is well worth the price if you are doing any kind of metal work or fabrication.

If you are seriously thinking about getting one Brent and you are in my area and want to stop by to check it out you are welcome to.

dtbback wrote:Looks like it would definitely save a ton of time and frustration. Didn't know you were in Upland. I am too. I'll about check out your flareside some time.

Ya hit me up sometime!

Thanks for the info and the offer.

Pretty cool machines. Hope to have one in my shop someday

Tony said you were able to stuff those 12's under the bed with the front tank delete. Any chance you have the eye to eye measurement on your rear shocks fully collapsed?

I'm getting ready to do the front tank delete soon as well, so am thinking about getting rid of my 10's and replacing with some 12's.

Looks like the shock mount will be a cool little setup. The torchmate is one of those very cool, very handy tools I WISH I had!

That being said - you said drop you a line if we need cutting. I don't have anything currently, but my buddy with one of these gets way too busy all the time & my cutting takes months to get back some time. If you're open to cutting & shipping cut parts (I don't have the time to get out there typically) I may have to hit you up. Can you use an autocad dwg file? If not I would assume it can take a dxf file?

nubreed71 wrote:Tony said you were able to stuff those 12's under the bed with the front tank delete. Any chance you have the eye to eye measurement on your rear shocks fully collapsed?

I'm getting ready to do the front tank delete soon as well, so am thinking about getting rid of my 10's and replacing with some 12's.

I think they are 19.5" collapsed with 12 3/4" of travel but i'll confirm tomorrow for you. The front tank delete was pretty easy, i'm still planning to notch and plate my tank back up but I made plugs for the lines to get me by until then and it sealed up good. Much easier than I thought it would be. If you end up deleting the front tank and you plan to mount shocks under the bed I can cut you a set of the shock plates if you like them.

ChaseTruck754 wrote:Looks like the shock mount will be a cool little setup. The torchmate is one of those very cool, very handy tools I WISH I had!

That being said - you said drop you a line if we need cutting. I don't have anything currently, but my buddy with one of these gets way too busy all the time & my cutting takes months to get back some time. If you're open to cutting & shipping cut parts (I don't have the time to get out there typically) I may have to hit you up. Can you use an autocad dwg file? If not I would assume it can take a dxf file?

Sure i'm down to cut and ship some stuff. I can probably turn stuff around within a week. Not sure on the DWG file, i'll have to look into that. For sure I can take a dxf file no problem.

Really happy with how things came out today. My shock mounts worked out good and I'm really surprised by the wheel travel.... metal to metal 18 3/4". Seems crazy to get kind of wheel travel with shocks under the bed and leaf springs but hey i'll take it.

Tomorrow hoping to get the tank plated back up and get suspension buttoned up.













Here are the gas line plugs I made from 3/8 and 5/16 bolts...I just cut the threads off, and then a little lathe work to match the nipple on the fuel pump and then I welded a bolt on the end so I can get them back out (hopefully). Seems like they seal just fine.



Here is my project for tomorrow.

The shock mounts look great! Yeah, a measurement would be really helpful since I'm looking at a set of 12" weld top bypasses and their compressed eye to eye measurement is 19.4".

Looks like you had to notch the crossmember that's attached to the underside of the bed a little bit?

Good news on the tank delete, I'm still deciding on how to cap off those lines...would like too do something less permanent than a tack weld, etc..., and your method looks pretty good.

Forgot to ask...which springs are you running? Q80's?

nubreed71 wrote:The shock mounts look great! Yeah, a measurement would be really helpful since I'm looking at a set of 12" weld top bypasses and their compressed eye to eye measurement is 19.4".

Looks like you had to notch the crossmember that's attached to the underside of the bed a little bit?

Good news on the tank delete, I'm still deciding on how to cap off those lines...would like too do something less permanent than a tack weld, etc..., and your method looks pretty good.

19 5/8 compressed length.

nubreed71 wrote:Forgot to ask...which springs are you running? Q80's?

No it's a custom 2.5" wide spring designed by shockseals.com kris...same spring he runs on his bronco.

Awesome...thanks for the measurement. Sounds like the 9100 bypasses I'm looking at will work!

Cool deal on the spring packs. Love how this build is turning out!

jkrell wrote:

nubreed71 wrote:The shock mounts look great! Yeah, a measurement would be really helpful since I'm looking at a set of 12" weld top bypasses and their compressed eye to eye measurement is 19.4".

Looks like you had to notch the crossmember that's attached to the underside of the bed a little bit?

Good news on the tank delete, I'm still deciding on how to cap off those lines...would like too do something less permanent than a tack weld, etc..., and your method looks pretty good.

19 5/8 compressed length.

nubreed71 wrote:Forgot to ask...which springs are you running? Q80's?

No it's a custom 2.5" wide spring designed by shockseals.com kris...same spring he runs on his bronco.

Can I have more info on the custom 2.5" leafs?