CrazyJim's 1994 F1 Build - "Penny"

[tcm glx]

I wasn't referencing your work I was more or less just saying silicon bronze wire helps avoid cracks in general when attaching thinner metal to thicker metal. At least that's what I was told.

My bad...thought you were understanding the cracking was happening between the thicker square tube and the sheet metal. I wanted to clarify that wasnt the case... it is holding up there great.

And I didnt do any of the welding, Steve Chasetruck did the first round, and a friend of Jims did the additional work this week.

[economig]

So it cracked at the welds??

[tcm glx]

So it cracked at the welds??

KTTN.

[Tchajagos]

How did those inner fenders work out? I left a lot on them so that I could trim only where was needed. I actually started with a spot weld drill bit but after a few I went to the cut off wheel on the grinder. Soooo much easier.

[crazyjim]

...and a friend of Jims did the additional work this week.

Uh... JIM did the additional work lol.

[tcm glx]

Hahahaha. That's right, my bad.

[ChaseTruck754]

I wasn't referencing your work I was more or less just saying silicon bronze wire helps avoid cracks in general when attaching thinner metal to thicker metal. At least that's what I was told.

SiB rod/wire helps in high vibration areas as it is soft enough to flex rather than crack. The most common place it's used in what we do is the plating between the cab/body & the cage. It is a good thought for an application like the fender one we're discussing here. I didn't think about it at the time I did the original welding though for some reason. The thick to thin metal thing isn't as much of a factor as to why it would be used as the vibration/flexing of the parts is

[crazyjim]

UPDATE!!!!!

Started ripping into her this weekend/week. I'm getting ready to install the Camburg beams, and decided rather than do the work twice, to just do coilovers right off the bat. I've decided I won't be running bypasses with these beams, to keep it simple and easy I'll be doing only a coilover up front. When the time comes, I"ll build a new engine cage and equal length beams, then run a bypass and coilover up front. So we started tearing into her!

Got the fenders off first in prep for the new inner skins to hang the glass. First things off, last things on!






I had the prettiest helper in the world helping me with all the stuff that big hands can't get to... Once the fenders / skins were off it was time to attack the radius arm brackets and the coil/shock tower. I wasn't lucky enough to have mine held on with bolts, 6 rivets per coil tower and 3 per radius arm bracket... ugh!










And just for fun to see what they're gonna look like...




Once that was done we called it a night. So today, I finally decided to just bite the bullet and pick up the engine cage that Travis has been trying to sell forever. He made me an awesome deal on it, and it appears it's going to work GREAT! Thanks again Travis! First things first, let's try to drop this bitch in!






Welp... shit that's not going to work. So I started taking off the AC box. Pretty quick work, though the plug inside the cab for the ac box was brittle and broke, looks like it'll still work though thankfully.



Figured out we'd have to remove the steering shaft as well, which I figured by looking at the cage, but gave it a shot first.




After removal, she slid down quite a ways, but still wasn't fitting quite right as you can see!








I figured out I had to move the header panel forward, so we loosened the bolts and slid her forward! She fits!!!!!!!











It's a bit tight on the master cylinder, not sure there's much I can do about that though, as the other side is tight against the AC box. But you can see I've got the steering column slid back into place here to show where it's supposed to run!








And that's all for tonight, I'll go out tomorrow, mark where the tubes land, and start grinding. I'll also need to sleeve a few of the tubes that were cut a bit wonky, and will probably sleeve with an inner tube to save space instead of outter. Otherwise she's ready to be welded!

[tcm glx]

Get work done!!!!!!

[93Broncobuff]

Lookin good mate!

[greaslife]

Sounds like a good time with the rivets. Looking good.

[ChaseTruck754]

Jim - give yourself a slight headache now to save a bigger one later... Make some plates to weld that cage to & make it bolt on & off.

Looking good though!

[tcm glx]

And if bolt on, you can powdercoat!! Food for thought!!!!!

[Becks_Bronco]

Could try something like this too?

http://camburg.com/store/fabrication-pa ... be-clamps/

[crazyjim]

I've thought about the tube clamps and making it bolt on, the issue with the tube clamps is I don't think I have enough room to slide it sideways in any direction to pull it off. Ruffstuff makes some tube clamps without the "lip" so you can pull straight up but I'm not sire the bolts would handle the sheering force by themselves.

[crazyjim]

So... after messing with the other engine cage for quite a while, I figured out it wasn't going to work out without some modifications. It sat pretty high, and instead of chopping the bottom and trying to make it work, I decided to build one from scratch. So, Chris (Cuz_im_CR) came over with his bender and some other stuff, and we got to work.










(don't mind the light tab, it was just tacked to give us a decend ground.)


Overall I'm happy with how it turned out. The front tube will be removable and will have additional supports for the core support, but I won't make those until the fenders are on and I figure out where the core support is going to sit. The rear tubes will also come in at a diagonal to the cross over support once that's built, but again, until I know where the coilovers are going to land, we held off on the cross brace.



I also was able to clean the spray paint off the fenders a bit:






The other thing I worked on this week was my beams. I picked up a set of camburg beams, and have been reading from several people, that the billet beam ends bend. I'm not sure why, but camburg stopped their overlay plates RIGHT before the beam end. I'm assuming so they could show off the bitchen "I" beam type billet end, but it provides a weak point. The solution for me is to grind off the last plate, and make new plates to fully cover the beam end.

You can see where the final plate ends here:



So I ground that off and made new templates:

[Becks_Bronco]

Badass. This is gonna be a nice truck Jim.

[tcm glx]

Looking good!!

[crazyjim]

Not a whole lot to update here, but picked up some new seats. PRP was great about ordering a custom color to match my interior:

[tcm glx]

Seats are sexy!!