Rod's 84 BabyBajaF100

[tcm glx]

Looking great Rod!!

[AussieRod]

Thanks, Tony

Thursday update:
Well, it has rained since 9:30 pm last night, and it is WET outside I got my spring hangers sorted and they are primed in the garage tonight:

P6210982.JPG (76.67 KiB) Viewed 689 times

These washers were added by a PO, so I just rewelded the bird droppings that were there and buffed them with a sanding disc:

P6210983.JPG (61.13 KiB) Viewed 689 times

P6210984.JPG (64.61 KiB) Viewed 689 times

I primed the cab mount nuts and the rear spring bolts and nuts ready for paint tomorrow night:

P6210985.JPG (80.21 KiB) Viewed 666 times

I'll have all the hangers fitted Saturday morning, and start on the steering box and linkage after that. Then, if its stopped raining, I will buff up the rear leaves and hit them with cheap black and fit them as soon as they are dry.
Stay tuned

[AussieRod]

Saturday update:
Got my spring hangers bolted on today, and used the last of my bolts and nuts too:

P6230988.JPG (88.67 KiB) Viewed 666 times

P6230989.JPG (88.6 KiB) Viewed 666 times

I will start on the PS box later, wash it up and paint it and start prepping for the steering.

In a spur of the moment thought, I put a FSJ spring against my F100 rear spring, and it is the same length and width, and the spring bolt is in the same position. I have a pair of 5 leaf with overload FSJ leaves out back, maybe I should try these to soften the rear a little. The FSJ springs also have more unloaded arch and the springs I am considering do ride nicely with a light load (ie: full fuel, 2 spares, jack etc.

P6230986.JPG (74.83 KiB) Viewed 666 times

P6230987.JPG (73.12 KiB) Viewed 666 times

I picked up the 9" bearings, but got the wrong ones in the boxes. It seems someone swapped boxes somewhere at the supplier. My auto shop will have to correct ones on Monday, so I will pick them up then and take in the 9" housing for a quick blast too. Assembly and paint next week. Cant wait to get this thing into a roller

[AussieRod]

Sunday update:
Got the PS box cleaned up, painted and fitted today:

P6240990.JPG (87.54 KiB) Viewed 643 times

Notice the depression the factory formed in the X member to clear the piston housing on the PS box. Thats standard on all F Series and Broncos here.
The steering linkages I will clean up during the week, and get them on along with the new tierod ends. Cleaned and painted the coil retaining clips, park brake relay stuff and proportioning valve mount:

P6240992.JPG (87.44 KiB) Viewed 643 times

Laid out the brake, canister vent and old fuel lines ready for cleaning. Laid the harness out, too, ready for unwrapping and redoing:

P6240991.JPG (87.75 KiB) Viewed 643 times

Getting closer, slowly

[Balls]

are you going to add any bracing between the ps box and frame? The boxes tend to move and flex the frame a lot if just the three bolts are used, in some cases the bolts will fail. I've seen a few different setups that brace the box using the already threaded hole onion the upper vertical sideof the box on the frame side.

[AussieRod]

are you going to add any bracing between the ps box and frame? The boxes tend to move and flex the frame a lot if just the three bolts are used, in some cases the bolts will fail. I've seen a few different setups that brace the box using the already threaded hole onion the upper vertical sideof the box on the frame side.

Wednesday update:
Rather than write a new post for this, I decided to modify this one. Balls reminded me of the weakness of the steering box area on these Aussie versions and I decided after mulling it over for a few days, to inspect the whole mounting system to see if I could improve things...... Boy could I.
A seriously closer inspection (should have done this before the install) revealed that someone in the past had welded machined spacer washers to the PS box mounting bosses:

P6270994.JPG (76.35 KiB) Viewed 599 times

P6270995.JPG (87.03 KiB) Viewed 599 times

An even closer inspection revealed A) the bolts were only engaging the threads in the bosses about 6 - 7 threads because of the spacers. I also found that 2 of the bosses had very bad threads in the first few, which would mean the holes would likely strip out in the first harsh use, so I took the box to work today and whipped those suckers off carefully with the angle grinder:

P6270996.JPG (74.6 KiB) Viewed 599 times

I then used a sanding disc and very carefully cleaned up the bosses and prepped the box for the next phase, drilling and tapping the bosses to 1/2" UNC:

P6270997.JPG (82.41 KiB) Viewed 599 times

I checked the tapped holes with a new bolt, chamfered them lightly and put the box away to take home and prepare the re-fit.

[AussieRod]

The next step, I took the factory bolts to my local supplier and got 3 new 1/2" UNC Grade 8 bolts the correct length to replace them. These dont have the factory relief on the ends, so I get another 2 threads of engagment into the holes on the box:

P6270998.JPG (76.97 KiB) Viewed 599 times

Now I have a full inch of clean, solid thread engagment in the mounting bosses (13 TPI in UNC) instead of barely 6. All that remains for me to do is drill out 2 of the chassis holes to 13MM (clearance for the bolts) and drill the 2 large washers to the same size, re-paint everything and re-assemble. Box ready to fit once the holes are drilled:

P6271000.JPG (73.38 KiB) Viewed 599 times

I have also had a change of mind on the bolts for the frame. I am using Metric 8.8 Grade bolts and 9.8 Nyloks, but I am changing all the suspension mounting bolts to 10.9 (slightly higher than Grade 8). The factory suspension hardware is all 10.9, so I figure its better to use the same for all my suspension attaching hardware. Factory chassis hardware is 8.8, so the body mounts wont change (for now) until the next major upgrades, when I will swap everything for 10.9 hardware right through. My supplier doesnt normally carry 10.9's in stock, so I took what he had and ordered more to do the changeover. I will fit them once they arrive. The few I could get will go on over the next couple of days:

P6270999.JPG (85.57 KiB) Viewed 599 times

I havent heard back from either Philo or Baja Scott re: the parts I should have coming my way, so I will tackle wiring, brake and emmision piping and other small detailing over the next few days, and start the assembly of the 9 inch and cleaning/painting of the springs. Thats it for tonight, I'm going outside to drill the frame holes, paint and prep for the PS box re-install tomorrow night. Adios, muchachos

[AussieRod]

Wednesday update #2:
What can I say, I went out, drilled the frame tubes out, cleaned and painted, then fitted the box up. I had to nick a thread and a half off one bolt to stop it bottoming out before it went tight, but I have full thread engagment in all 3 holes and peace of mind (for now)
7/16" UNC to 1/2" UNC upgraded:

P6271001.JPG (68.69 KiB) Viewed 597 times

PS box fitted, torqued and ready:

P6271002.JPG (86.35 KiB) Viewed 597 times

And, it is FREEZING outside it must be 2 - 3C out there. Anyway, done, and done. More tomorrow night, kiddies.

[Copykat]

Cold haha serves you right for builting in the winter months.

Progress is looking great. Taking your time is key and it's paying off. Keep it up Rod.

Your making me want to pull the cab off my bronco and clean the frame like that.

[AussieRod]

Cold haha serves you right for builting in the winter months.

Progress is looking great. Taking your time is key and it's paying off. Keep it up Rod.

Your making me want to pull the cab off my bronco and clean the frame like that.

HAHAHA, Thanks. Its alright for some of you guys, sipping your pina coladas in the CA sunshine. You ought to know about the cold, living in Canada, eh? My rebuild is a matter of necessity, so I work on it, sun, rain, cold, etc. My frame was surface rusty, no wire brush or scotchbrite would get that completely off, and having the access, I sandblasted it to "white metal finish" I am lucky to have the access and skills to do this kind of overhaul, and it saves me shitloads of money doing everything myself. At least, following my rebuild shows many how to do the thorough job. Its only money, right?

[BajaF250]

Hey Rod,
Nice attention to detail... good catch on the P/S box threads and bolts... nice and easy upgrade without attacking the frame (to get it through inspection). Well done amigo!

[AussieRod]

Hey Rod,
Nice attention to detail... good catch on the P/S box threads and bolts... nice and easy upgrade without attacking the frame (to get it through inspection). Well done amigo!

Thanks, Tom Sometimes the easiest upgrade solution is staring you in the face. It still amazes me how so many folks just get it so wrong and make a pig's breakfast out of something so simple, just because they didnt take the time to think about the problems cause.

[AussieRod]

Thursday update:
I got shit done tonight Spent about 4 hrs out there, cleaning the brake and canister to tank vent pipes with scotchbrite and the wire buff mounted on my spare grinder. Installed all the steel brake pipes (I didnt clean them to bare metal, only back to the original zinc finish) with P clips and installed the proportioning valve. This I will touch up later:

P6281004.JPG (75.17 KiB) Viewed 558 times

P6281005.JPG (75.47 KiB) Viewed 558 times

P6281008.JPG (85.6 KiB) Viewed 558 times

P6281007.JPG (74.56 KiB) Viewed 558 times

[AussieRod]

The P clip attatchment detail. I use these long nuts to stand off the clip, so I can attach the 2 P clips for the supply and return fuel pipes. The P clips will face the other way, to keep the pipes inside the frame and away from flying rocks, debris, etc:

P6281009.JPG (59.07 KiB) Viewed 556 times

Also got the PS pipes temporarily fitted, they needed some serious reforming to get them back to their original shape to fit onto the box and follow the frame correctly. These will be scotchbrited and painted tomorrow night. Note the pipes come around the front of the PS box. Because the engine is offset about 2" to the right, in RHD form, the air pump comes REALLY close to hitting the PS box, so the pipes need to go around the front of the box and down to clear the front of the engine and accessories. They will be P clipped together and to the frame to limit vibration:

P6281011.JPG (74.63 KiB) Viewed 556 times

P6281003.JPG (79.03 KiB) Viewed 556 times

The pressure side pipe has a JIC hydraulic fitting brazed on, to make the flex part removable/field replaceable:

P6281010.JPG (60.43 KiB) Viewed 556 times

On a side note, if anyone is heading for a salvage yard in the near future, I need a LWB or SWB dual tank chassis harness from an 86 to 96 F150 or F250 with dual fuel tanks. If you can pick up a good unmangled/uncut one, roll it up, stick in a flat rate box and PM me a price and postage, I will paypal you ASAP. I need this soon, along with my X member (Philo?) I will get more done over the weekend. Nighty nite

[Silverslk]

Rod, you make me feel like such a slacker when I look at how you clean this thing. Looking great!! Keep up the progress. I look forward to these updates every morning when I get to work.

[AussieRod]

Rod, you make me feel like such a slacker when I look at how you clean this thing. Looking great!! Keep up the progress. I look forward to these updates every morning when I get to work.

Andy, I just want it to look good for the inspection. Giving everything a good cleaning and painting now, means I can find any problems and fix them before some dickhead inspector finds them for me Just trying to make progress and glad you like the updates

[ESHALLBETTER]

I like the long standoff nut idea on the plumbing. Consider it stolen! Thank you!

[ChaseTruck754]

I like the long standoff nut idea on the plumbing. Consider it stolen! Thank you!

x2! I'm running the brake & fuel lines in the crew now & just had one edel clamp (P clamp) pointed up from the bolt and one pointed down. I was then just going to zip tie the 3rd line (fuel return) but like this setup much better!

[philofab]

I sent the x-member, not sure where it's at. I'll see if I can find anything out from the USPS.

Why did the P/S box have spacers added?

Also, 86 to 96 trucks have a few different rear harnesses and there was a couple of different style fuel systems and harness plugs. Up until 91 they had three pumps, one on the frame rail and one in each tank. In 92 they went to just the pumps in the tanks. Both use fuel pressure to switch pumps instead of a electric valve. The earlier stuff have a pressure operated valve on the frame rail and later stuff just uses one way valves built into the pump assembly. The bad about the pump assembly is that you can't easily stuff a larger 255LPH pump in them, but the good is it keeps the pump submerged in fuel for cooling even when the fuel level is below the pump.

[AussieRod]

I like the long standoff nut idea on the plumbing. Consider it stolen! Thank you!

x2! I'm running the brake & fuel lines in the crew now & just had one edel clamp (P clamp) pointed up from the bolt and one pointed down. I was then just going to zip tie the 3rd line (fuel return) but like this setup much better!

That would be right!