Rod's 84 BabyBajaF100

[ChaseTruck754]

Me too - trust me. Got a different toy taking it's place so I have had the bender, notcher and welder out a little bit for the first time in years, but time is limited so it's take 3 weeks+ to do what I used to pump out in 1 night in the shop. Still fun to at least get to do it though.

[bloose]

I haven't gone through this entire build but I probably will this weekend with my computer, looks awesome from what I have scanned through. Good job man.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Hey Rod how's that motor comin?

[AussieRod]

Hey Rod how's that motor comin?

Hey, Randy.
Mick picked up my cylinder heads from Flowcraft last saturday, and being I'm up at the mine until Saturday, They will have to wait until I get home and find the time to bolt them on. I'll take some pics of the port work Flowcraft did, they are magnificent. My oil pan is done, just needs the dipstick calibrated and the pan cleaned up and installed and I can paint the engine and fit up the rest of the accessories and get it in the truck.
I'm looking forward to getting it going again and getting it on the road later this year.
Cheers, Mate.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Maybe I missed it but are you running stock heads? Should be a cool site to see when you get them on.

[AussieRod]

Maybe I missed it but are you running stock heads? Should be a cool site to see when you get them on.

Yes, running 2V open chamber heads. The bowls, short turn and valve guide bosses have been ported and reshaped, single groove 2V valves in bronze guides with cromo retainers, locks and HD springs. The guides have been machined for PC seals and are good for 0.600" lift. They are a VAST improvment over the stock ports, so it should boogy along nicely.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Sounds like a solid set of heads. I cant remember the valve sizes on the Clevelands but could you have gone to a bigger valve? Fords tend to undersize them.


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[AussieRod]

Sounds like a solid set of heads. I cant remember the valve sizes on the Clevelands but could you have gone to a bigger valve? Fords tend to undersize them.


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These are 2.07" intake, 1.65" exhaust. Plenty big enough for a tough street weapon. Bigger valves don't really give the improvement that good porting for port velocity and smooth mid-lift flow increases are where the most benefit is gained.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Thats bigger than i expected. Pretty sure thats bigger than the valves in my 460.


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[AussieRod]

The new engine is alive. FINALLY! I'll do an update shortly (when I have time).

[ChaseTruck754]

Niiiiiiice!

[AussieRod]

Friday 30th:
Time for an update.
It lives again. After assembly (I forgot to take photos, of course) and the install in the truck, it started on the second turn of the starter and ran, no knocks or clacks. I topped everything up, made sure I had the hose handy and after pushing it out of the garage, started it up and started the cam run-in. All ran sweet, until about 10 mins in, it was getting hot and the hose could barely keep it cool. I shut it down and waited a couple of hours to re-run it. This took the best part of the afternoon to complete, but once done, it idled nice and oil pressure was good, etc, but the temp just kept climbing. Only a lot of spray from the hose and a fast idle would keep it down close to the half mark. It seems, as I already suspected that the brand new Dayco fan clutch was a complete dud and would not engage when the temp got up. I quickly ordered a Truflow one from ebay and it arrived pre Christmas, but I didn't fit it until Saturday. Are-run to check the timing exposed a loose rocker, which I suspect is a sticking lifter. I removed the valve cover, found the loose rocker and readjusted it, buttoned everything back up and the noise is gone. However, it still intermittently taps, so I'll need to go run it out on the road before I start any remedial work required. There is a small oil leak at the back, but it will have to wait. I suspect either a gallery plug needs tightening, possibly I need to reseal the main cap, or I put half the rear main seal in the wrong way. I'll deal with that when I have to. The new fan clutch works a treat, now the new larger fan really moves the air through the radiator at idle, and so far it stays under half.

So, the new engine specs are:
Speed Pro 0.030" 0/s hypereutectic flat top pistons and moly rings, Elgin RV cam, roller thrust rollmaster chain kit, Powerbond steel balancer, Milodon/ARP main studs with Milodn windage tray, ARP rod bolts with closed and resized rods, Melling HV oil pump, Milodon oil pump driveshaft and Milodon pick-up, home made oil pan (8 quarts). The cylinder heads were done by Flowcraft, with 2V single groove valves, bronze guides, HD srings, CroMo retainers and machined locks. The bowls, short turns and valve guide bosses were massaged and ported, along with the port roofs raised slightly. There are hardened seats fitted as well, for propane use. The heads are topped off with the Crane stud conversion kit and roller rockers. Speedmaster valve covers top off the heads and a copycat Air-gap intake covers the valley. The casting was very nice and all the holes, surfaces etc were well machined. I fitted a Milodon 'Hi flow" water pump as well. What a rip-off that was. It is just an el cheapo GMB pump with a plate welded over the impeller blades. Apparently, that's what Milodon calls a 'hi-flow' water pump. I painted the engine Chrysler blue. When warmed up, it cracks like a whip, so it should be a good, torquey street and off road engine.

The AOD is pissing me off. Every now and then (too often for my liking), I have a box full of neutrals and it takes a good stab of the throttle in gear to get it to wake up. I'm working on finding another NP435 for it, with all the required bits and will sell off the AOD. The fluid level is fine, any more and it leaks from the vent pipe. It's just annoying, and my gut feeling is that it will let me down out in the middle of nowhere when I least expect it, so it has to go. Otherwise, it's good.

Engine shots:

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I've cut off the rear 'bumper' from the towbar. It's been cleaned up and will get blasted and painted black.
The front bumper has been modded again for new driving lights. These XTM lights have a reported range of 1 lux at 2,000 yards. I'll get to find out soon enough. I also added a 50A Anderson plug holder mount to the bumper for power feed from the front:

P1010113.JPG (87.41 KiB) Viewed 1712 times

I also have this power distribution box to fit in the tub for power:

P1010114.JPG (75.4 KiB) Viewed 1712 times

It also comes from XTM. It was on special, and with my member's discount, I couldn't make this for the cost. I just need to fit the front bar, weld on some tabs for a cover plate and it goes off for blasting and powdercoat.

The tub is going back on for the near future until I finish with the flatbed I am building for it. The rear fuel tank is going back in and the plumbing sorted out at the same time. Work is progressing.
More soon.
Cheers and Happy New Year.

[AussieRod]

And, BUGGER it. The engine has to come out. I have an oil leak at the back and it is coming from behind the sandwich plate. I'll have to assume I put half the rear main seal in the wrong way around, or there is another problem. I also have a sticking exhaust and intake valve I have to find before the engine comes out. Both are on the left side, so I'll cut up a valve cover to stop oil going everywhere and diagnose them first. It may mean the head has to come off and go back for remedial work. I can't catch a break when it comes to engines. This time I'll document what went wrong, and how I fix it. I will also dump that useless Edelbrock carb and fit a Holly 1850 600cfm vac sec 4 bbl. I cannot get the idle speed and/or mixtures to stay stable, so it can run properly cold and hot. Currently working on modifying both fuel tanks for fill breathers so I can remove those useless hoses inside the filler necks. It takes half an hour to fill either tank and it drives me insane. More pics to follow.

[AussieRod]

On another sour note, Mick is in the hospital. He has had blood pressure and heart problems for a while, and since the corona-hoax has subsided here, he hasn't been able to get any work or sort out his health issues. I'm guessing he has just given up and isn't looking after himself. Dad had to call the ambulance for him this morning, as he couldn't get out of bed, he was so sick and weak. Waiting to hear what's happening and hoping for the best.

[AussieRod]

Saturday Jan 7:
Mick is back home. It seems he needs to take better care of himself, but he also has coronavirus, along with my Dad. They are isolating at home for now, plus I keep in regular contact. By the end of next week, they should be in the clear and safe to re-enter the world.

As for me, I've been spending my spare time getting a lot of the little things done to finish the F100. I cleaned up and painted the original tow bar hitch and today, I bolted that back on. The plugs and other fittings have been re-installed, ready to be used once it is drive-able proper. On the weekend last, I re-installed the rear fuel tank after removing the pump and checking/cleaning it inside. It has been re-plumbed back as the primary fuel tank, with the Carter pump on the frame rail still running in tandem with the in-tank pump. That way, if either one decides to fail, the other will keep me going until I can replace the faulty one. I'll carry spares of both/all, so I can stay mobile regardless. The tail pipe was also refitted, replacing the dump pipe in front of the rear axle. I'm just waiting for the new transfer pump(s) for the front tank to arrive, then once it is installed and I verify everything works as it should, the tub will be prepped and go back on.
Rear tank installed:

P1010118.JPG (85.06 KiB) Viewed 1650 times

Tow bar hitch installed:

P1010119.JPG (76.63 KiB) Viewed 1650 times

Reverse light and extra plug for the new trailer to control the propane tanks it will be carrying:

P1010120.JPG (77.45 KiB) Viewed 1650 times

50A Anderson plug holder:

P1010121.JPG (87.6 KiB) Viewed 1650 times

12 pin Hayman Reece trailer plug:

P1010122.JPG (72.1 KiB) Viewed 1650 times

The whole rear as it sits tonight:

P1010123.JPG (82.2 KiB) Viewed 1650 times

I'm off to the mine Monday morning at sparrows fart and will be back Wednesday. I'll do the transfer pump install and plumbing then and get all that complete, then start the engine removal to sort out the rear oil leak. Once that's fixed, back in it goes while I decide to go to a C6 or back to the trusty NP435. I'm waiting to hear from the F truck guy to find out prices and availability, then I will decide and hit buy it now. I might even drive it down there and back to give it a bloody good run.
Anyway, more next week.
Cheers.

[AussieRod]

Sunday Jan 8:
After tidying up a few wiring projects, I pulled the front panel out and removed the engine. I found the source of the oil leak. Apparently, the oil pan gasket at the left rear has a cut-out in it from manufacture and it appears that when I tightened down the oil pan, this thin area squeeged into the crankcase and left a slight gap, allowing oil to escape right at the rear corner. This oil was drawn into the bellhousing by the air vortex created by the spinning flex plate and it dripped out onto the floor. I estimate it lost a cup full of oil because of this. On Wednesday night after I get home from the mine, I'll drain the oil, remove the pan and investigate the cause more closely. I have a new pan set handy, so I will replace the pan gasket, seal it all up, repair the sandwich plate and bolt it all back in. I'll order headers, flanges and some 2 1/4" bends for it tomorrow and a Holley 600 vac sec carb later in the week after payday. Might as well get it all done right now, rather than later.
I'll report back with pics once the pan is off.
Cheers.

[AussieRod]

Well, I removed the oil pan, to find out that perhaps I had not put enough sealer in the rubber seal to cork pan gasket joint and it was weeping hot oil. I also found metal fragments in the very bottom of the oil pan. After a careful inspection and cleaning, I re-fitted the oil pan with a new gasket and a better layer of sealer and a stud kit I'd had laying around. All appears well ( or so I thought).
I had planned to re-do the lifter preloads while the engine was out, as it is much easier to do now. However, when I pulled the LH valve cover, I discovered the previously loose rocker was loose again. Tonight, after work I picked up an extendable magnet to pull the follower out through the cylinder head gap and inspect it. Well, nothing would move that lifter. Now realizing that the worst had happened, I pulled the intake manifold and bathtub and attempted to remove the lifter. Nothing happening. It would move up about 1/4", then it was stuck. It took a pair of visegrips to remove it. After that, it was disassembly and removal of the camshaft.

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P1010125.JPG (87.22 KiB) Viewed 1591 times

This is what I'd found. It looks as if during the cam run-in cycle, when the engine got a little too warm, the lifter got stuck momentarily and that was all it took to destroy the lifter and the lobe. That's close to 80 thou missing off the lifter base. I used one of the other lifters to check the bore. It had some small scratches from the old follower, so I massaged them out carefully and now its the same as the others. I've thoroughly cleaned the bore and oil gallery and now looking for a replacement cam and lifters.
I can't catch a break.

[AussieRod]

New cam and lifters arrived yesterday, both are now installed, along with the timing chain and front cover, etc. Push rods and rockers are on, but not tightened yet, as I have to change the oil filter, fill it with oil and prime the oil system first, to bleed all the air out of the lifters and rocker gear. Then, it's do all the preloads, install the intake and valve covers and get it off the stand for the sandwich plate and drive plate, then in it goes.
Pics and updates tomorrow.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Aren't motors fun? Its alway something, even new stuff now days. How did it do on its test run besides the AOD?

[AussieRod]

Aren't motors fun? Its always something, even new stuff now days. How did it do on its test run besides the AOD?

Hi Randy.
I like building engines, so it was disappointing for a lifter failure to happen for the first time in almost 50 years. Turns out it was a faulty cam follower. A local engine builder looked at the cam and follower for me and did a hardness test. He thinks the follower wasn't hardened correctly during manufacture. One in a few hundred million, I guess, and I got it. The new Comp Cam's cam has been run-in, but I was sent up to the mine on an emergency rescue mission to finish the bucket repairs, so I'll have to wait until I get home for a test drive. The new cam is lumpier at idle than I'd like, but appears to be very responsive (when that useless Edelbrock carb plays ball. It's getting a new Holley 1850 600 vac to replace it.) Looking for 4.10's to fit if I keep the auto, otherwise, I'm swapping both diffs to 3.7 for the manual and fitting 35's.
The AOD may be low on fluid. That or the trans filter is blocking up. It whines in gear and seems sluggish to engage, so that might be the issue. I have a C4 years ago did the same thing and it turned out to be just a blocked filter. A new filter and fluid and shift kit made it like new again. I'll need to do some remedial servicing once the tub goes back on to make up for it sitting so long (me being lazy). I'm still considering going back to the manual NP435, but I'll wait and see if I can't get the auto to behave. I've ordered a filter kit and fluid for the trans, plus more for the engine to do an oil change after the cam run in. I'll cut open the filter and check for metal. I just need to fit the new breather stubs to the fuel tanks and get that finished so I can refit the tub and paint it. Want to drive it for a while before registration to sort out the bugs. Stay tuned for updates.
Cheers, Mate.