Rod's 84 BabyBajaF100

[AussieRod]

[/quote]Yup. Sadly mine is for sale. I'd love to finish mine, but it's not in the cards it seems. No time at all anymore. At least you are getting to drive yours again. Mine hits the 10 YEAR mark since I tore it down this September. It deserves to be finished & enjoyed, but I'm having a hard time letting go so I'm not pushing the sale much at all. Just sad, but that's life I guess.[/quote]

I know the feeling. Past projects had to go, and I regretted it the moment I sold them, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

[ChaseTruck754]

Exactly. I'm sure I'll be kicking myself later in life for it - which is also part of why I'm veeeeeery slow to let go. I'm just fighting the inevitable at this point though.

[VintageIronFab]

Just sell all your junk shit, vehicles parts, put $500 a month in the new vehicle fund for 6-12 months and go get a nicely used Raptor and say screw it! I about did that a few months ago myself!!

[AussieRod]

Just sell all your junk shit, vehicles parts, put $500 a month in the new vehicle fund for 6-12 months and go get a nicely used Raptor and say screw it! I about did that a few months ago myself!!

Once the F100 is finished, that's exactly how I plan to fund a F250 Superduty to tow my caravan, plus selling the Triton to fund the purchase.

[BajaBronco13]

Loving this F100 build Rod. Keep the pics coming.

Chris

[AussieRod]

Wed 22 August:
I'm back home on R&R again, tomorrow, I have to go pick up a pile of stuff from the post office and start another attack on getting the truck further along the path to full drivable. Some items probably wont turn up until I go back to work again, but they will be here for the next swing home. I'll get a windshield fitted either just before I go away or on my next R&R, then I WILL drive it around to do a full systems check and run the engine in.
More tomorrow, I did a 6 hour stint flat out this morning from 5 am, replacing wear blocks on a 992K bucket, plus I've been travelling all day to get home.
Cheers.

[AussieRod]

Friday 24 August:
Yesterday, picked up some parts from the post office, front shocks, new external fuel pump and some other stuff not related to the truck. Went home and got the truck out of the garage and started work. I had a change of mind over the shocks, as the Ranchos were out of stock, so I got a refund and grabbed some cheaper Webco gas shocks to fit for now. At least they will allow me to drive it:
Getting started:

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Right side done:

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Decided to try Mick's old Bronco wheels and tyres for fit. These are the front lesser offset rims:

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These barely stick out on my truck, unlike the Bronco:

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With the bigger 33x12.5R15 Coopers, it has a distinct lean:

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I went around underneath, looking for leaks, cleaning off cobwebs and wasp tubes to make it clean. All was good, although I seem to have a small water leak at the front of the engine somewhere. I'll track that down later.

[AussieRod]

After re-fitting the stock rims, I put everything away, as the weather threatened and it started to rain lightly. I quit for the night and had an early night.

Friday morning, the post lady arrived and delivered my heater core, ahead of time. I wasn't unhappy about that. Once breakfast was over, I went out to the garage and had a serious search for as many of the remaining parts to fit as I could find and laid them out on the garage floor:
New vs. old heater core (new on left):

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Lots of stuff still to clean, paint and install:

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[AussieRod]

Tomorrow, after I drop the Handbrake off at the station, I'm off the the hardware store for stainless screws and a few bolts, then to the paint shop for trim buttons and trim retainers and then head home to start cleaning and painting all of the plastic trim for re-install. While that stuff dries, I'll also get some glue and new foam to re-do the control flaps and seal pads inside and around the heater box and start re-assembling it for install. Once it's all in and the trims are in around the dash, I'll do a systems check and then fit the dashtop pad. If all goes well, I might even get a windshield fitted next week My new Flowmaster should arrive Monday, and the bends later in the week, then I can start on the proper exhaust system.
More tomorrow.

[ChaseTruck754]

Keep on chugging! The parts pile to go back on is getting smaller & smaller. That's gotta make you happy.

[AussieRod]

Keep on chugging! The parts pile to go back on is getting smaller & smaller. That's gotta make you happy.

Absolutely!

[AussieRod]

Saturday 25 August:
One thing I forgot to mention, I FINALLY did the RH steering arm I should have done years ago. I had a replacement tierod end to fit, and new urethane boots for the other end, so I finally got to changing it out and squirting it with paint:

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This morning, after a stop to get some clips, bolts and screws, I started on the outer seat belts and trims. Broke out the trusty sand blaster and LIGHTLY blasted off the oxide coating to clean the plastic for vinyl paint:

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I didn't have the exact colour I needed, but came close with a coat of buckskin, then a mist coat of Rustoleum Nutmeg to add the correct tone. They came out good:

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The top dash brace that also holds the demister ducts and dashpad in place had rusted through the paint, so it was lightly blasted to remove the rust, then coated with Rustoleum white epoxy:

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Gave the old grille a light blast to clean and rough it, and hit it with satin black:

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Just need to get replacement headlight surrounds, or do the same to them (satin black):

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[AussieRod]

The pile is slowly getting smaller:

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I'd re-foam covered the control flaps, refitted the new heater core and assembled the heater box before I remembered to take pictures, sorry. Here it is, almost finished. The doors work fine, so it should be better than before:

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The last piece has a spring loaded flap for the fresh air vent, but it's missing a pivot lug. When it's opened it goes spastic and falls in, and is a pain to get back into place. I'm going to cut and weld a piece of 1/4" bolt shank to a piece of sheet steel, trim it to fit and then use 2 TEK screws to attach it to the door. Once that's done, I can finish assembly of the heater box and re-install it:

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That's the bolt that will donate itself for the repair. You might be able to see the missing tab on the right side of the flap (this is the inside of the cover piece).
More progress tomorrow (maybe), the Bronco is coming back for it's mystery brake ailment, which I think is the master cylinder failing AGAIN. I'll likely raid the one off my truck to get him going and re-order a new one for mine. I'll see how it goes tomorrow.
Cheers.

[AussieRod]

Sunday Aug 26:
After breakfast, I went out and set up to repair the vent door. Welded on the bolt to some sheet steel, cut it down neatly to size and then realized some idiot made the wrong side, didn''t he? Luckily, I had a spare bolt in the correct size and quickly made the CORRECT one for it. Correct one on the left:

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drilled the new pivot and the door for self tappers and installed them carefully:

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Installed the housing onto the heater and fitted it back in it's spot:

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Re-fitted the dash brace and got it all ready for the dashtop install:

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I lost a few hours in between the repair and heater box install, as Mick and my Dad rolled up and I did a diagnosis on the Bronco. Turns out the LH rear wheel cylinder has shit itself, so I've ordered 2 replacements and will fit them next weekend. The bad one draws air on releasing the brake and creates an airlock in the cylinder. It doesn't leak externally YET, but will if left too much longer. Tomorrow, I'll do the A pillar trims (sandblast and paint), repair the cracks with epoxy and fit them once dry, then after an electric systems check and re-connect the heater for a full test, I'll fit the new speedo cable to the speedo, then clean and re-fit the dashtop, ready for a new 'screen to be installed. While I have the cooling system open, I will replace the 195 deg. thermostat with a 180 deg. unit, repair the water leak (found that this morning, will explain tomorrow) and re-fill with coolant mix. After all that is out of the way, I'll square up the cab and front, double check all the alignments and measurements and then blast down the cab bolts permanently. After that is done, I will focus on getting the side fuel tank and hardware cleaned and ready to fit once the sender arrives from JBG.
Getting closer
More tomorrow.
Cheers.

[AussieRod]

Monday Aug 27:
I was enjoying the cleaning and assembly so much today, I forgot to take progress pics. Tied up all the underdash wiring, investigated why the radio wouldn't work, seems I cut off the memory wire during dis-ass'y and forgot to re-run it on assembly, so I extended the wire and temp connected it to a live source, and bingo, I had a working stereo at last. I spent the next 2 hours or so rocking to Bon Jovi on CD from the truck as I continued with the interior work. Cleaned and painted LH kick panel, both A pillar covers, the sun visors and installed them. After a full electrical check, I got out the new speedo cable and installed it, only to find out it's for a 2WD, so it's a little short. However, I got creative and made it fit without too many hassles. Replaced a few missing speed nut plates on the dash pad, gave it a clean and then installed it. I got a little emotional as I installed the last few screws. It's been a long time since I sat inside the truck and it's basically all there:

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After the dash and interior, I started on the water leak. The heater hose from the block nipple had 2 punctures in it that were used to run the plastic thread loop to hang it on a hook at the store, and water was weeping through these under the clamp. I cut off about 3/4" and re-fitted the hose, changed the thermostat and re-tightened all the clamps. Warmed it up, topped up the water and and no more leak(s), so far. It might be a cheap Chinese radiator, but I was amazed at the difference in temperature of the top and bottom hose, even with the puny thermo fans, so it might just do the job. I spent some time tuning the 500 Holley and got it to run reasonably good, but I'm still going to replace it with a Edelbrock Performer 600 on my next R&R. I've ordered the correct Lokar carb bracket for the Lokar AOD TV cable set-up and that should be all done next break, too, so I can drive it for real. Currently shopping for the TCI constant pressure valve body for the AOD. Then the TV cable only controls shift points and kick-down and I won't burn up my "new" AOD.
The cab will get done tomorrow, and then the trans cover and shifter mounting plate, and if funds permit, the windshield will be fitted early next week before I go back to work. I'm finding it hard to go to sleep at night now, knowing it's getting so close, like a kid on Christmas Eve.
More tomorrow.
Cheers.

[AussieRod]

Tuesday 28 August:
I had a lazy day today. Didn't get motivated until after lunch, so went down to the auto store and swapped out 2 of the cans of vinyl dye I'd bought for painting all the trim. Seems their version of "buckskin" and reality was different. Their colour was too yellow, so after using one can for a test, I didn't need the other 2. These were swapped for silver (aluminium) engine enamel, to paint the fuel tank later. After a tour of the only 2 gunshops in town looking for cheap ammo (found nothing), I went home, broke out the sandblasting kit, taped up the fuel tank and gave it a good clean-up. By this time, the light was getting away from me and it was getting very cold, so I quickly laid a good coat of silver on the tank and put it inside the garage, out of the weather to dry overnight:

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I'll paint the bottom tomorrow night after we get home from the Melbourne trip. I'm using a Carter fuel pump for this set-up, instead of an in-tank pump, so I won't have to remove the tank in the event the pump dies:

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My 3" mandrels won't arrive until early next week, so the proper exhaust has to wait until next R&R, along with the fuel system, new carb, etc. I screwed up and ordered the wrong Flowmaster muffler. I accidently ordered the same one as on the Bronco, instead of the larger version to make it a little quieter. Oh well, if it's too noisey, I'll add a 3" bullet in the tailpipe to quiet it down:

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The RH muffler is the same as the one on the Bronco, the 2 chamber is for the race car for track days. It should be ok, as the truck won't suffer from the interior noise like a Bronco, but I don't want it to attract too much attention from the cops, if you know what I mean
Anyway, I'll get more done Thursday, I need to make the Handbrake happy for a day to keep my ears intact. The tank straps still need to be blasted and painted, and I have new rubber to insulate them and the tank when it's installed. I have to re-locate the filter and find a good spot for the pump, re-do the wiring and fuel hoses a little and remove the rear tank to get ready for the rear propane tank. If I run out of stuff to do over the weekend, I will attack the tub outer and get it ready for paint. Still lots to do.
Later.

[AussieRod]

Thurday 30 August:
Didn't get home until late last night and I was beat. I HATE shopping trips (unless I'm buying F-truck or Bronco parts) I also slept in late (9:30am) this morning, so it was a late start. I tipped the fuel tank and put a coat of engine enamel on the bottom before going to the post office to pick up Mike's wheel cylinders, then put a second coat on after returning home:

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Then, I started on re-connecting the heater. A squirt of WD40 on the heater nipples got the hoses on easy and all the clamps were tightend:

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I zip-tied the heater valve to open (so I thought) and warmed up the engine, adding water to fill the heater core. To my surprise, no water was flowing through the heater. After re-studying the heater actuator circuit, I realised my error. It appears the heater valve default position is OPEN, not closed as I originally thought. After snipping the zip-tie, the hoses got hot and I had heat coming through the demister vents. The small vacuum switch on the heater box is opened when the heat control is in the COLD position and applies vacuum to the tap to CLOSE it, not OPEN it as I first thought. Funny, I never noticed this with all the other trucks I've fixed over the years. Must be old age catching me up.
Anyway, I tested the heater on all fan speeds and made sure all the controls work correctly (which they do) and left that job done.
Another job I hadn't mentioned was I replaced the large single pulley on the alternator with a smaller twin belt pulley:

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I did this for 2 reasons. A/ to speed up the alternator at lower engine speeds and B/ to allow me to add a second alternator if I can't find a matching higher capacity unit. This one is only 55A, which might be a bit on the small side. I'm trolling ebay for a 125A unit of the same type to replace it with in the future.
The intake manifold on this engine is a Holley Street Dominator, not really the correct type for it's current usage, but these are a good intake for the Clevo and it was cheap. However, throtttle response isn't great due to the stacked spacers I currently have:

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These will go once the Edelbrock carb goes on. I'll be keeping the 4 bbl insulator, but the rest will go. I put the insulator under the 2bbl carb because the LF mounting stud on the lower adapter will jam the accell pump lever if it isn't there:

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Yes, I should replace the stud with a shorter one, or a bolt, but I've already been down that road, and no, it doesn't work. Thus, the combo I currently have. This carb set-up is now only temporary, so no issue. Then I can finish the TV cable install, adjust it correctly and drive it further than the front gate.
More later.

[AussieRod]

Aug 30 cont.
Well, Mother Nature decided the rest of my afternoon. I'd rolled the truck down to the concrete outside and was almost finished measuring and adjusting the cab, ready to get out the tools and bust it down, when the heavens opened and down came the rain. I got it back under the carport before it got too wet, but I got soaked over the next 10 mins as I rescued my drying clothes from the line and went up the yard to make sure Mother Hen and her brood got safely under cover. I got them into their shelter and fed before heading back to the house. With the rain pelting down, no way was I going to get any more done, so I gave up for the day.
I haven't put coolant into the radiator yet, as I've decided to wait until Monday, when the correct coolant temp sender arrives and I get that installed. The current one ins't the correct one, and I think the guage readings are not correct, so I'd rather wait and have the right part installed than lose a good engine. I also have the correct oil pressure sender coming, so I can re-install the freshly painted guage panel back into the dash. My 3" x 12" hot dog/resonator should arrive Tuesday for the tail pipe, but my mandrel bends will be delayed, as they are out of the 90 deg bends. I've messaged them to send them all the week I return on R&R, so they have time to re-stock, and they are ok with that. The carb will be ordered my second week at work to arrive when I do, and I'll get the windshield fitted that week's Friday. By the time the weekend is over, it should be ready for it's first outing in 6 1/2 years. After the cab is bolted down, I have a few things to do, but if I run out of stuff to get done, I will focus on prepping the tub for it's coat of paint. I'll also order some 1 3/4" x 0.125" roll cage tubing for the bedcage and start mapping that out on the garage floor. There is also the front and rear bumpers to finish off so they can go to powdercoat as well as the bedcage. Still a lot to do before it's finally ready. I can hardly wait to start Stage 2. I have emails off to get prices and shipping quotes from different stores, so I'd better start saving.
If MN holds off, more tomorrow.
Cheers.

[AussieRod]

Friday 31 August:
It was raining again this morning, but I had to go and drop the Handbrake's car off for a service. I took the Courtesy Bus back and after a coffee, went out to the mailbox to find a pick-up docket. To my surprise, it was the parts I'd ordered from JBG! Off I went and returned with my package:
Sender, pigtail, O ring and locking ring:

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New filler hose:

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I tipped about 1/2 a gallon of fresh gas into the tank and flushed out the crap left over inside and installed the sender. The new locking ring is garbage. Too thin and has no dimples to lock it in, like the original.The "new" pos could be removed with my fingers. So, I used the original and it was spot on. Fitted the pigtail and hose and it's ready to be fitted:
Original vent is broken, I'll rob the good one out of the rear tank:

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Sender intalled:

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Of course, as soon as I had the cab ready to rattle gun down, we had a power outage, which lasted 4 hours. Seems some idiot decided to park into a power pole not too far away. So, I crawled underneath and started dis-connecting and removing the fuel hose and wiring from the rear tank to re-hash for the front tank. Rather trhan completely remove the wiring from the rear harness, I carefully cut it off and fitted a Deutsch plug, in case I change my mind (again) and want to re-install the rear fuel tank:

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I'll install the mating half to the fuel pump/sender harness and keep it on the tank for storage.

[AussieRod]

Cont:
After pulling the fuel sender wire through and re-wrapping the harness, it was re-attached to the stand-offs and I made a ground wire and fitted a 2 pin Deutsch plug for connection to the sender:

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After dis-connecting the fuel line from the filter, I stuck the end under the speedo cable at the t/case to stop fuel running out where I had to lay under the truck. The plug tied up to the speedo cable is the wiring for the speed sensor needed if I go back to Mustang based EEC4 EFI:

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The batteries in the camera gave up right after that pic, so I'll take more tomorrow. I've mounted the fuel filter in the chassis rail just behind the t/case and after a quick test fit with the tank, it clears just fine. The fuel pump is going in the rail just ahead of the t/case, I was drilling the 2 extra holes when the cordless drill went flat, too.
Never mind, it was getting dark anyway, so I did a quick pack-up and will resume tomorrow. More then