Big Bertha

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:59 am

magic carpet XLT wrote:thats a cool idea. plus if you happen to bend a spindle the whole rear hopefully isn't trashed.

whats the pivot to ball joint axis measurement if you don't mind? if i make my van 4wd it will be with D50 stuff, i'm through swapping out I beams for solid axles

Stock width is about 30" from pivot to the center between ball joints. The arms are almost the same length once you take pivot offset into account.

magic carpet XLT · Post by **magic carpet XLT** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:09 pm

wow, did not realize they were that narrow. good to know. i take it you are offsetting the pivot so as not to gain too much width and tire stick out?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:49 pm

magic carpet XLT wrote:wow, did not realize they were that narrow. good to know. i take it you are offsetting the pivot so as not to gain too much width and tire stick out?

No. My pivots will be close to OE offset. The nice thing about having the pivot so close to the center joint is that it reduces plunge on the center axle. The factory 1/2 ton D44 short arm is around 30" long and it works well.

hobbyturnedobsession · Mon Apr 11, 2011 1:26 pm

Whats going on with Big Bertha Philo?

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:48 pm

Nothing - he's playing with Phorged and the "new" ranger. How about the Bronco???? He's got as many projects as I do!

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:52 pm

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Whats going on with Big Bertha Philo?

I put a catch can on the radiator. I haven't been able to touch it since my girlfriend decided she likes driving it everywhere.

ChaseTruck754 wrote:Nothing - he's playing with Phorged and the "new" ranger. How about the Bronco???? He's got as many projects as I do!

I have a Rambler and two motorcycles I'm building too.

hobbyturnedobsession · Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:54 pm

Hahaha thats good its driving around then. Did you ever finish those radius arms?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:55 pm

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Hahaha thats good its driving around then. Did you ever finish those radius arms?

Oh yea. Those have been done forever. I will be doing a different style for the new 4wd beams though.

hobbyturnedobsession · Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:59 pm

Good to hear. Hows your Bronco doing. Been a while since we've seen an update.

Post by **SteveG** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:26 pm

philofab wrote:I have a Rambler and two motorcycles I'm building too.

The Rambler will be done for Santa Maria. Right?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:00 pm

SteveG wrote:The Rambler will be done for Santa Maria. Right?

I may not even go this year... have not decided yet. I still need to order axles for it and I put the wheels for it on the Ranger.

hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Good to hear. Hows your Bronco doing. Been a while since we've seen an update.

It has full glass but no shocks. I haven't decided what I want to do with the front and rear end. Giant engine cage didn't work out so....

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Wed May 11, 2011 7:49 am

Bought some goodies the other day....

I also scored a factory NEW 4R100 from a closed Ford dealer to use to convert my E4OD to 4wd. It's from a 2000-2001 or so V10 4WD truck. Trans guy says it will all swap. I'll hopefully be able to drill my flex plate for the 6 stud converter too.

I'm going to get the trans done sometime next week so I've got to get on the ball a figure out the drivelines, wiring for the t-case, ect. I think I'm going to use the truck style manual 1356 I have.

hobbyturnedobsession · Wed May 11, 2011 8:41 am

awesome score!

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Fri May 20, 2011 4:58 pm

Pulling the trans out tonight/in the morning for it to be rebuilt / converted to 4wd output.

Plans are to use the truck style 1356 I have. The research I have done seems in indicate the 1356 is stronger than a 208. I'd use a flange yoke style 1356 but I don't have one in the manual variety and am unsure I can use it with the large u-joint my truck uses as it was not a factory combination. I'm not sure I gain any strength since I use a carrier bearing either. I'm hoping I can just shorten my forward drive line and reuse the yoke.

I haven't figured out the wiring for the lights on the dash or gotten the shifter bezel and such either. I figure that stuff is not detrimental to the truck running/driving.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Fri May 20, 2011 8:42 pm

Looks like it might be fun setting the drive shaft up with a carrier bearing. I wonder what the 4wd CCSB trucks came with?

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sat May 21, 2011 11:18 am

A friend sent a picture of his CCSB OBS 4x4 and they put the carrier bearing on the next cross member back and used a shorter rear shaft. Not sure how I'll go yet. I may find a flange output t-case and build a 1 piece shaft.

Trans is out, luckily the hole in the floor is there for the handle as is the plug for the dash lights. All I need is a short 4" adapter harness like my Bronco has. Should be able to get one at the yard no problem.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:53 pm

Some interesting tidbits:

2wd and 4wd crossmembers are very different, 4wd e4od have the trans mount offset to the left and sit about 1.5 inches lower at the mount area. C6 trans mount is centered and narrower due to being farther forward.

The slip yoke from a 2wd fits the truck style 1356. The crossmember is there to move the carrier bearing back.

My truck now has three possible VSS sensors. One in the 1988 1356, one in my steel 4r100 4wd adapter, and the original in the rear end. Should be nice if I ever step up to a 10" Chrisman.

I was able to use the six lug converter after drilling new holes in the flex plate.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:36 am

Truck is back together minus building a driveline and new exhaust.

Looks like I can move the carrier bearing mount back and just shorten the back half of the driveshaft.

This should do a good job of replacing the VSS in the rear.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 11:22 am

Truck is all back together with a Magnaflow muffler. The output shaft of the transfer case is leaking due to a mismatch between the seal and yoke. Haven't figured out the part # I need yet.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 6:32 pm

After thinking about it I am going to need to replace the yoke on my driveline.

There is no seal to go from my yoke to a 1356, and even if there was I would still need the bushing the outer part of the yoke rides on.

Big Bertha

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