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Wrightracing.net wrote:An external speaker is a better alternative and it sounds better.

Thanks. I'd planned on picking one up eventually.


Not a major update but an update no less. I replaced the bum door lock actuator on the driver's door and added keyless entry. I'm not a fan of having to carry around key fobs. In fact I usually only carry the key on a piece of paracord or something similar but I'm lazy and get tired of opening the doors with the key and with kids, keyless entry eliminates several steps when loading and unloading.

I used this same kit on my last Explorer and really liked it... simple with small remotes.

http://www.amazon.com/Viper-211HV-1-Way ... =viper+211

A photo of the install (keyless entry control in the bottom left). The next step is making a vapor barrier. The original was gone when I got the car. I'll hit the local hardware store tomorrow for some material.

I like the price! Good looking out I think I may have to order one of those bad boys.

A couple resources for those looking to do the same thing.

General door lock info and tips on how to figure out what type of system you have.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8wprK ... sp=sharing

More general info plus a wire diagram for "Type C" power locks which is what first gen Explorers have.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8wprK ... sp=sharing

Easy to install? Well I mean for a non professional like myself?

Rmc wrote:Easy to install? Well I mean for a non professional like myself?

It's pretty easy. It took me a while to find the right diagram. It's been a LONG time since I installed a kit on my last Explorer and I forgot it doesn't come with instructions. It might take you a bit to wrap your head around what's going on in the door lock system but once you do, it goes quickly. You could pay someone to do it but most stereo shops aren't going to take the care you (I) would in installing it. I soldered all my connections and used heat-shrink. I also hard-mounted the control with screws so it won't rattle around. And, because I didn't use any of the alarm, light flashing, etc. features, I removed about half of the wires and just mounted it in the door instead of under the dash. That way it's all self contained and doesn't clutter up the dash wiring. The other bonus is I don't have to lay on my back under the dash to install it!

Also worth mentioning, the way I wired it, it gets it's power, ground... everything from the door and door lock system. This means if there is ever a short in it for some reason, it will only affect the door lock system... no big deal.

Sounds like a cool setup, and something I would be looking at for my crew cab. Will that system power all 4 doors, or is it the type that just does the driver door & you get in & unlock the rest?

Since the crew currently doesn't have power anything I will be adding power door locks & windows, & people have suggested using an exploder as a donor for the door locks.

The unit has a 30 amp relay so it should be able to handle four doors with ease.

It also has provisions for a trunk release/auxiliary output. I'd consider installing one of the Bronco and setting it up to roll the back window down with the remote.

After filling the car with gear and food for four plus the RC car tote, interior storage is at a premium so I gotta start moving stuff outside. Plus, I'm not going to carry fuel in the cab.... I just bought these two carriers. One for water and one for fuel. Now I need to figure out how to mount them. For the short term, I might modify a hitch rack to carry these and a tote or two. I'm thinking about putting it on a hinge so I can rotate it out of the way (like a bike rack)if I need to open the hatch with it installed. Maybe with a hydraulic lift support it would be easy enough to use that it would be a permanent solution.

I see a custom, swing out bumper in your future!

ChaseTruck754 wrote:I see a custom, swing out bumper in your future!

I think a dual swinger would be cool... one on each side. But I just don't feel like getting that involved and I don't really want something on there all the time. I might play with a receiver-hitch mounted swinger.

Maybe something in between these two. If I built a receiver that sits behind the license plate it would be high enough that it wouldn't get in the way and with the swinger I could still get the hatch open without a lot of trouble.

I was thinking dual swing when I wrote that as I like those too.

Do a simple square tube type bumper that the swingers can come off of easily so you can put them on for camping trips, etc.

ChaseTruck754 wrote:Do a simple square tube type bumper that the swingers can come off of easily so you can put them on for camping trips, etc.

We'll see. I really don't want to get that involved with it or lose the stock bumpers.

I'm test-fitting the steering wheel tonight. The Grant adapter I bought doesn't have enough grooves in the contact ring to maintain cruise control (not acceptable)... I have an email into them. Hopefully they get back to me soon. In the meantime, I'll try the wheel out and make sure I like it.

Wheel installed...

The factory trim behind the adapter will need some trimming and massaging to keep the adapter
cover from rubbing. It won't hurt anything but it sure will drive me nuts! I also need to finish up the cruise control wiring(I wish I still had the Bronco here to remind me how the hell I did it last time!

I also still need to find a horn button.

I have an OG brand new ford horn button from grant Steve.....it's yours if you want it. Still in original packaging.

I like it.

tcm glx wrote:I have an OG brand new ford horn button from grant Steve.....it's yours if you want it. Still in original packaging.

Thanks for the offer, Tony! I might take you up on that. The Grant stuff doesn't fit this wheel... until now. I took a file to the back of the wheel to make the horn button ring fit. I had this plain button in stock. The gloss doesn't fit the wheel but it'll do for now.

Looks really good!

No chain wheel?