95 f150 4x4

[steve-oh]

I plan on doing swing set steering, but that will be down the road a little bit. I thought i read somewhere the 14s you had to do something with the heater box....

[Rmc]

I dunno, I set up my shock towers with the bottom out point with 1 inch clearance from the tire hitting the heater box. With c&t but not extended beams there may be more crap the tire can hit but I can't think of it. Just place the full bottom out position with a little clearance and the ability to still maintain full steering at full tuck. With either a 12 or a 14 the full tuck position wouldn't change due to this being set up at the position where tires won't smash stuff. If u run 37's that full tuck point would drop another inch due to the larger tire's radius. The full droop point would be the only one that would change. At full droop you in theory would gain 2 inches down travel that's it.

[Rmc]

As far as real travel numbers that would depend entirely on shock placement on the beam.

[steve-oh]

Was thinking of moutning on too of the beam

[Rmc]

Keep in mind how close or how far in and out on the beam toward the frame rail or towand the knuckle will change the travel numbers. The up travel will end just before the tire hits what ever is above it. The placement of the lower shock mount closer to the knuckle will mean closer to a 1 to 1 ratio on ( the lever) the beam. If u put the lower mount closer to the frame u will get more travel out of whatever shock you chose.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

I have 14s on my c/ts and dont touch my heater box on 35s. My beams are forward just over an inch.

[steve-oh]

Fender fairy stopped by

[steve-oh]

Core support is in and started the fender install

[Rmc]

6 inch flare?

[steve-oh]

I believe 4.5

[bajascott]

You will have to machine the uniball cups and spaced to make them fit.I have a deal I'm working out with me supplier,that will allow people to buy them already machined to fit.

[Silverslk]

GREAT IDEA!!

[Rmc]

X2

[steve-oh]

You will have to machine the uniball cups and spaced to make them fit.I have a deal I'm working out with me supplier,that will allow people to buy them already machined to fit.

If you wouldnt mind shoot me a pm when thats a go

[steve-oh]

Did some more fender fitting got the liners trimmed and fitted in. Was hoping the 2wd front would be ok for the 35s and the new fenders but there going to rub a little so looks like ill have to put the the 4wd front in. Wanted to do all that when i did the c&ts and coilovers but this has to go to paint next week so i got my wheels back.

[steve-oh]

Going to pull the bed sides too, looks a litte funny with the rear so straight

[Rmc]

Looking good so far.

[ESHALLBETTER]

I think the pulled bed sides will make a big difference. Looks good!

[Travisfab]

You will want to cut out the area in the yellow box. That flange is only needed if you are deleting your radiator core support.

[Rmc]

Not to get too ghetto fabulous on you but quite a few local kids cut the spot welds then press the bed sides out with a 2x4, hold em in place with the 2x4( between frame and inside of bed skin. Then take 1 inch conduit smash the ends flat. Bend it over 90, hold it to the frame mark the other side ( flat) then bend that side to 90 also. Kinda like a cheap brace in the shape of a Z. I'm not saying I would rock it but if buget is super tight 7 to 10 bucks for 3 or 4 tries is ready for race day. It Beats shredded tires anyday. Proving where there's a will theres a way.