Stub axle keeps braking
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Stub axle keeps braking
I'm looking for help
I'm new to the go fast Bronco concept, I'm more of a rock crawler having two Broncos and an f150 with solid 3/4 axles, I've broken many axle shafts but in my pre runner bronco the stub axle keeps braking while on 4x4 due to the angle on the cut and turn beams and suspension travel just about every time I use the 4 wheel drive.
Does anyone know if there's a replacement like a RCV shaft I can order or am I destined to only drive it in two wheel drive?
I currently have a locker in the front
Thanks
I'm new to the go fast Bronco concept, I'm more of a rock crawler having two Broncos and an f150 with solid 3/4 axles, I've broken many axle shafts but in my pre runner bronco the stub axle keeps braking while on 4x4 due to the angle on the cut and turn beams and suspension travel just about every time I use the 4 wheel drive.
Does anyone know if there's a replacement like a RCV shaft I can order or am I destined to only drive it in two wheel drive?
I currently have a locker in the front
Thanks
- Tchajagos
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Stub axle keeps braking
Rcv makes shafts for d44 ttb.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultimate ... style.html
Also, you have to clearance the center joint so it doesn’t bind.
A front locker and big tires it hard on the inner axles. A lot of people will run a limited slip to make it easier on the center joint. Even an open diff is ok in most gofast situations.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultimate ... style.html
Also, you have to clearance the center joint so it doesn’t bind.
A front locker and big tires it hard on the inner axles. A lot of people will run a limited slip to make it easier on the center joint. Even an open diff is ok in most gofast situations.
- Tchajagos
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Stub axle keeps braking
Also, you should be cycling your suspension and setting up limit straps before the center joint binds up.
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Thanks for the link Tchajagos
I will see if they sell the center stub only
When I cycle the suspension I don't get much travel before the axles get on a bind, when you say I need to clear the center joint did you meant to machine the joint or buy one that's already compensated to clear the u joint?
Thanks in advance
I will see if they sell the center stub only
When I cycle the suspension I don't get much travel before the axles get on a bind, when you say I need to clear the center joint did you meant to machine the joint or buy one that's already compensated to clear the u joint?
Thanks in advance
Re: Stub axle keeps braking
You can get a lot of travel if you custom grind the center joint. Usually done with a die grinder in a vice while measuring to get it uniform. If that does not meet your wheeling then upgrade to the larger joint and a modified beam with a bulge for the bigger joint. It be stronger, but axles will not be stronger and probably have less articulation. Try it and see.
BTW it is pretty rare to hear about a TTB setup properly having broken axles. Broken is an exclusive to class 3 racers not prerunners.
BTW it is pretty rare to hear about a TTB setup properly having broken axles. Broken is an exclusive to class 3 racers not prerunners.
- BDKW1
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Yes they will sell the center axle separately. You will need the whole axle.dsd wrote:Thanks for the link Tchajagos
I will see if they sell the center stub only
When I cycle the suspension I don't get much travel before the axles get on a bind, when you say I need to clear the center joint did you meant to machine the joint or buy one that's already compensated to clear the u joint?
Thanks in advance
Or you can grind the yoke to look like the one above. If you compare that pic to yours it should give you a good idea of what to do.
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Thanks a lot guys
I didn't want to weaken the axle further by cutting it but I will give it a try. I don't plan on going rock crawling with this bronco but I do plan on using it in all terrains like sand, snow, dirt and anywhere I get stuck at. Therefore I need to decide if I keep the locker or not and how much travel I can really get on this truck. I will post again once I fix it.
I didn't want to weaken the axle further by cutting it but I will give it a try. I don't plan on going rock crawling with this bronco but I do plan on using it in all terrains like sand, snow, dirt and anywhere I get stuck at. Therefore I need to decide if I keep the locker or not and how much travel I can really get on this truck. I will post again once I fix it.
- BDKW1
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Top tip, tack weld the caps in the yokes.
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
dsd wrote:Thanks a lot guys
I didn't want to weaken the axle further by cutting it but I will give it a try. I don't plan on going rock crawling with this bronco but I do plan on using it in all terrains like sand, snow, dirt and anywhere I get stuck at. Therefore I need to decide if I keep the locker or not and how much travel I can really get on this truck. I will post again once I fix it.
If you're strapped properly, clearance the D44 stub shaft like @tchajagos showed, and tack weld the cap in place, you'll be fine. I'm locked in the front with 18" travel, and haven't broken a stub shaft or joint yet. I have about 1/8" clearance between the stub and slip shafts at full droop.
You still might break a shaft in a high torque, off camber situation (rock crawling, hopping up a boulder, etc.). You can carry a lot of trail spares for the price of a RCV system.
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Thanks guys
I'm in the process of clearing the shafts I will keep you posted
Question such axle is better the bolted stub or the open
I'm in the process of clearing the shafts I will keep you posted
Question such axle is better the bolted stub or the open
- yikes
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Something else to look at - Breaking stubs and/or hubs can often be attributed to misalignment after the cut and turn, which will prevent the axle from sliding freely through it's travel from steering lock to lock. This is especially true when high degree camber/caster bushings are required to correct alignment. This was a problem I experienced with my set up.
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
I've already cleared and welded the yoke and another spare but this is taking longer than planned. The stub axle came out of the locker enough to damage the carrier with the splines and got stuck. I finely got it out but now I need to replace a bearing that got damaged as well.
I lost the spring that goes in between the axle shaft and the yoke and I don't know if anybody carries this anymore.
Yikes,
Besides not having the yoke cleared for the angle do you think the axle shaft may be sliding off the carrier or locker when turning or at full droop? The last time the axle broke is when I was turning on a flat surface. I also need to have the truck aligned by a shop as I only aligned my self to run straight in order to test it.
I lost the spring that goes in between the axle shaft and the yoke and I don't know if anybody carries this anymore.
Yikes,
Besides not having the yoke cleared for the angle do you think the axle shaft may be sliding off the carrier or locker when turning or at full droop? The last time the axle broke is when I was turning on a flat surface. I also need to have the truck aligned by a shop as I only aligned my self to run straight in order to test it.
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
The spring in the coupler is a fix to keep the stub in the carrier reducing load on c clip groove through the travel, not an oe part. Under high torque and traveling, splines dont work well for plunge and you are exceeding the strength of the C clip groove holding in the stub and thats why you get failures. I have broken 2 of them and then went to bolt in stub shaft. None of my joints bind but I often pull out heavy shit through bumps and turns which is worst csae scenario for the stub set up. I have an open diff so with a locker I would probably have broken more.
Kris Hernandez
shockseals.com
shockseals.com
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
You can pick up a spring at Home Depot (comes in a 4 pack and is baout $5). Just cut it to size, test fit, droop and rotate, cut, and test again. I think my spring came out to about 1.5" long. I have an e-locker in the front, but only use that at slow pace for rocks. I keep the diff open for the go-fast stuff.
- SteveG
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Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Ditto. First, Mae sure nothing is binding due to geometry, installation errors, etc. After that, keep in mind it’s a weak link that, in our application, should be used sparingly and with a light foot.shockseals.com wrote:The spring in the coupler is a fix to keep the stub in the carrier reducing load on c clip groove through the travel, not an oe part. Under high torque and traveling, splines dont work well for plunge and you are exceeding the strength of the C clip groove holding in the stub and thats why you get failures. I have broken 2 of them and then went to bolt in stub shaft. None of my joints bind but I often pull out heavy shit through bumps and turns which is worst csae scenario for the stub set up. I have an open diff so with a locker I would probably have broken more.
Sho nuff,
SteveG
SteveG
Re: Stub axle keeps braking
Long ago we decided to not use the spring method and go with the original Ford design. That OEM design of course was eliminated by the Ford bean counters to save a trivial amount of dollars. The original Ford bolted diff is the real solution.
However, successful spring setups use a valve spring from a SBC. If you search on Pirate you can locate the best spring setup. And with the spring you need to weld the cap in place. And the resulting stress on the C-clip will still exist.
In any event correct lube on the splines is still needed.
However, successful spring setups use a valve spring from a SBC. If you search on Pirate you can locate the best spring setup. And with the spring you need to weld the cap in place. And the resulting stress on the C-clip will still exist.
In any event correct lube on the splines is still needed.