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Hi All,

I've recently installed the Solo Motorsports stock width set up on coilovers. I'm running into issues with my stub shaft falling out of the D44 pumpkin. I have a front locker and originally had a spring in the stub shaft to keep the shaft in place, but that spring wasn't long enough when I went C&T. I put in a longer spring that definitely kept things in place, but it looks like the cap in the stub shaft popped out. I can't remember if the cap was originally tack welded in place or not.

A couple of questions:
1. Should I create my own cap and tack weld it in place in several spots and install a new spring?
2. Is there a way to tell how much tension/pressure is the right amount while in the driveway?
3. Is there a better alternative without rebuilding a bolt-in stub shaft third member?


Thanks in advance!

The most effective way is to replace the lock with an open diff or a factory limited slip that accepts the c-clip.

I have tacked on many caps for people who want to run the spring. It will probably work fine for you. Did you clearance for u-joint bind at full droop?

The spring trick is a little hard to get just right. You have to have a long enough spring so when the axle slips out it still has tension on it, but short enough so the axle can slip all the way in without binding on the fully compressed spring. I would probably test it out with the passenger side knuckle off the truck and sliding the inner axle through the beam and into the slip joint.

I still wonder why there isn't a part number from where ever the hell that is perfect for a stock width C&T that gets tacked on or just simply put in place. Shit if you find one-- go buy 12 and start selling them or be the guy that makes a thread. I did this 5 years ago but totally forget what I bought.

In the event the original post wants a bolt in third I have one I would like to sell.

VintageIronFab wrote:I still wonder why there isn't a part number from where ever the hell that is perfect for a stock width C&T that gets tacked on or just simply put in place. Shit if you find one-- go buy 12 and start selling them or be the guy that makes a thread. I did this 5 years ago but totally forget what I bought.

In the event the original post wants a bolt in third I have one I would like to sell.

Good idea!

Tchajagos wrote:The most effective way is to replace the lock with an open diff or a factory limited slip that accepts the c-clip.

I have tacked on many caps for people who want to run the spring. It will probably work fine for you. Did you clearance for u-joint bind at full droop?

I use the front locker quite a bit in the rocks and I’m not totally interested in setting up a new third member.

I’ll have to clearance and tack a new stub in place and do some trial and error, doing as you suggested.

During my rearching into this problem I found Desolate Motorsports used to have a "spring and collar kit".Its a external style to the spring retention. I cant seem to find it on their site anymore,but maybe we can replicate what they had. https://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=1e5ro1g has the two shaft collar but im having trouble finding the right spring size. Explorer guys use a echo spring Part 69621655730, but I dont think that will work for D44 because our axle shafts do not "neck down" before the splines IIRC.(ill have to check a spare shaft I have to be sure though). Maybe this will help you

Did you call & ask Desolate if they carry it still, it's just not on the site. If they stopped carrying it my guess would be it was for a reason - like they weren't working as planned for some reason. Just a thought...

no i havent,im still running an open front right now and was just doing some internet searching into the problem. Good idea to check with Desolate to see what happened with this.

As all have mentioned lots of ways to deal with the spring. Once you discover the correct spring, then weld the cap. Back in the day Pirate discussed the subject in depth to the point of being obnoxious. How many different springs can be used. If I remember correctly a chevy valve spring was the final choice. Ha - there must be 10k of them to choose from?
The best and final solution is the Ford way which is the bolted diff & stub axle axle. They may be in short supply in the junk yards in CA, but I am sure they are available in other states. Bolted diffs work just fine with the traction improvers. Trutrac limited slip is the traction device of choice for the a TTB. The choice of many desert Broncos. Gunna go rock crawling then get a solid axle. The preferred solid is a D60 as used in 99% of all rock crawlers and for many trail driven Jeeps.

I’ve got a bolt in front third if you’re interested!

I know I am reviving an old thread, but has anyone thought of converting a non bolt in third member to a bolt in? It would seem to be easy to drill and tap 3 holes. The hard part would be the bearing and seal on the outside of the case. Maybe weld a spacer to the case, matching the bearing and oil seal.

I am putting an 81 third member in my Bronco and putting the 86 one with a open diff out. I have two differentials in the garage I picked up over the years. I have the Eaton Mechanical Limited slip and a Detroit Air Locker. I did fine in Baja with the open diff, but rock crawling was not good. I like the full locker up front in slow speed and the idea of back to a open all the rest of the time. I just don't if the Limited Slip would work well in crawling. Now, my main fun is the sand dunes, if I run paddles in front and rear, would the Air locker be better? Thats a whole other thread...

David