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He says he has the extended shackles too to match the drop hangers.

How offset are your rims!

With the drop downs the top shackle eye is more or less in the stock location, so the rear would be the same height as Q80's on stock shackles and rear hangers. The wheels are raceline Rock 8, steel beadlocks, Not DOT! 17X9.5 back space 3.5. Why did you ask?

Ditch the drop down


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The wheels Just looked more offset that I'm use to. One more question. When you back up does the front of the truck lift up?

I was just looking at it. I may do it, with just noch n the body cross support I would lower the rear 2 to 2.5 inches. Or do you think I should cut into floor to get more? No matter what I do in rear the front is too low I still have negative camber and more droop travel than Bump travel .

Yes it jacks when I back up, I am sure I am toed out too much. It is all connected, I want to get the ride height right before I fuc with the toe more. In all other dirt cars I always set with a little toe out so that they will over steer . 1st time with this beam shit so I think I will need to bring toe in to get rid of jacking, but it also could have some to do with the spring rate.

When you set the toe out on these and drive forward the front squats down. With a squishy suspension it can be a lot. We usually set toe in. Does it still seem low when you have it in the dirt?

I'd keep it as low as possible. That's just me. I'd ditch the hanger drop. I checked mine today. Same springs rate &a length as your running. I'm a 4.5" over beams w/64s in the rear with long shackle. Here is some pics for comparison.


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Cs drums your pictures are not showing up, I want to see them.

VintageIronFab wrote:I know I'd love to see a preload procedure for coilovers in order wirh pictures --if anyone has a correct procedure -- Brandon??

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/31816417-post642.html

anything more than 2" of preload in the front and it is time for new springs.

simple math to figure out how much preload you have with the vehicle on the ground

top spring static length - length on vehicle = upper spring sag
bottom spring static length - length on vehicle = lower spring sag
upper spring sag + lower spring sag = total spring sag

shock travel - shock shaft showing = shock sag

total spring sag - shock sag = preload

if preload is positive then at full extension your springs have load on them, if it is negative the spring is loose at full extension

I don't know where or how you came up with the 2 inch number, You either have coil bind or you don't . If your coils crash into each other before you bottom out on your stop then you got to much preload for that length of spring, if they don't crash then it is not too much pre load, it may not be pretty but it could be anywhere between half an inch and a lot of inches. The way Hollander states to measure preload makes the most sense to me. The up date on my set up is that I corrected my toe which fixed a lot of my problems, I also cranked more preload in. I like what I am seeing now As far as ride height ,camber and bump travel. My ass end is still higher than I want it, and I may redo the rear spring hanger to get that kali fornie kool look, but I am going to wait until I drive it around some fully loaded. Xtate

XTate wrote:I don't know where or how you came up with the 2 inch number, You either have coil bind or you don't . If your coils crash into each other before you bottom out on your stop then you got to much preload for that length of spring, if they don't crash then it is not too much pre load, it may not be pretty but it could be anywhere between half an inch and a lot of inches. The way Hollander states to measure preload makes the most sense to me. The up date on my set up is that I corrected my toe which fixed a lot of my problems, I also cranked more preload in. I like what I am seeing now As far as ride height ,camber and bump travel. My ass end is still higher than I want it, and I may redo the rear spring hanger to get that kali fornie kool look, but I am going to wait until I drive it around some fully loaded. Xtate

Another thing you can do if you do not want to mess with hangers is redo the leaf perches on the rear-end housing to eliminate the need for the wedge block that should drop the rear about an inch or so.

XTate wrote:I don't know where or how you came up with the 2 inch number, You either have coil bind or you don't . If your coils crash into each other before you bottom out on your stop then you got to much preload for that length of spring, if they don't crash then it is not too much pre load, it may not be pretty but it could be anywhere between half an inch and a lot of inches. The way Hollander states to measure preload makes the most sense to me. The up date on my set up is that I corrected my toe which fixed a lot of my problems, I also cranked more preload in. I like what I am seeing now As far as ride height ,camber and bump travel. My ass end is still higher than I want it, and I may redo the rear spring hanger to get that kali fornie kool look, but I am going to wait until I drive it around some fully loaded. Xtate

theres a few problems with just adding more preload
- the coil starts to bow and eat the shock
- preload could cause the lower spring to be shorted than the shock shaft at full drop and you could have a slider go sideways or get stuck under the shock
- you get too far away from the crossover nuts to utilize them where you want them

i will also add that the lower spring needs to be 2" longer than the travel of the shock and the upper the same as the travel of the shock. (unless you have sway away then the upper needs to be 2" shorter) this helps keep the spring off the shock at full droop.