Narrowed dana 60/ corp 14 bolt vs 9"

[Seabass]

Who here is running narrowed one ton rear ends? Where did your budget land vs the cost of building a 9"?

I love the idea of an impossible to break full floater built from mostly junk yard parts. How narrow can you go with off the shelf production shafts? I'd like to get something narrow enough to get under factory sheet metal.

Thanks

[ChaseTruck754]

why would you need to narrow it?

Just run conversion hubs or machine your hubs to 5x5.5 if that's the lug pattern you want.

[drewbee88]

Who here is running narrowed one ton rear ends? Where did your budget land vs the cost of building a 9"?

I love the idea of an impossible to break full floater built from mostly junk yard parts. How narrow can you go with off the shelf production shafts? I'd like to get something narrow enough to get under factory sheet metal.

Thanks

I will be running a 14 bolt out back of my bronco to start. Eventually I have plans of building a fabricated 9 inch with Dana 60 full float hubs on rear. So I can carry one full spare hub/snout/bearing set on the bronco at all times. No need to narrow. If anything a DRW 14bolt with SRW hubs lands around 70 wms to wms. Which is nice width for a widened bronco. Without having to retube and/or buy a fabricated housing

[ChaseTruck754]

yup - that was kind of my point.

And I will be running a fabricated 14 bolt because I got a deal on it.

If not I was looking at both 60's and 14 bolts. Both are very cheap to buy & build, but a bit heavier than a 9"

[Seabass]

I'd like to get the width about an 1" wider than stock and assumed they where wider. I haven't gotten to far into the research on them yet. I do want to run the 5x5.5 lug pattern hubs. I don't know what my options for brakes are when doing so.

I realize they are heavy. I'd prefer a 60 because its marginally lighter than the 14b. Can I redrill a 5 lug pattern into an off the shelf rotor without it going to swiss cheese? Thinking no. What are the brake options when running the conversion hubs?

How do these pencil out money wise compared to the 9"? Is it the bargain I'm hoping for?

[VintageIronFab]

I personally think you all are missing the very best of all worlds and my fav rear end-- how about a fabbed9" with the 99-04 Superduty rear outer axles-- you get the big FF and the even bigger rear brakes with an integral parking brake as well. Best part the thing doesn't weight 500# and you dont have to shame your family with a Chevy rear end J/K Ryan if you read this.. lol!

[drewbee88]

I personally think you all are missing the very best of all worlds and my fav rear end-- how about a fabbed9" with the 99-04 Superduty rear outer axles-- you get the big FF and the even bigger rear brakes with an integral parking brake as well. Best part the thing doesn't weight 500# and you dont have to shame your family with a Chevy rear end J/K Ryan if you read this.. lol!

If I did not have Dana 50 ttb beam ends I would do something like that. Only reason I am not building my fabbed 9 or Toyota 10.5 with Dana 60 spindles and hubs. Is I got a free FF 14 bolt. And free was my budget

[ChaseTruck754]

People go back & forth on which is better - 14b or d60. Lots of good merits on either but the 14b seems to win (pinion support, larger axles, etc.). Then the d70 comes in, and it's a closer race.

Width on both are pretty close to stock fullsize bronco depending on what you pull the things out of. And I'm talking SRW here. of course. Still lots of different things these rears came in so a few different widths out there.

Buy yes, you can machine the 5x5.5 pattern in the 14b hubs. It gets a bit tight but isn't to the "I wouldn't go there" line. I'm pretty sure d60 are similar or the same in that aspect.


As for brakes - disks of course. Converting to disks from the stock drums drops almost 100 lbs. on the 14b and a bunch of weight on the 60 as well.

[VintageIronFab]

Drew what about selling the 14 bolt and getting what you want? Are the 99-04 Superduty rears the same bolt pattern as an older Dana 50? Will the Superduty Dana 50 knuckles bolt up to the older TTB Dana 50? That would change things if it does at least it would for me.

[drewbee88]

Drew what about selling the 14 bolt and getting what you want? Are the 99-04 Superduty rears the same bolt pattern as an older Dana 50? Will the Superduty Dana 50 knuckles bolt up to the older TTB Dana 50? That would change things if it does at least it would for me.

I will do a fabbed 9 inch or a Toyota 10.5 if I can find one cheep enough. Then use the Dana 50ttb hubs on rear I full float form. I just don't have cash for a geared third member.

[VintageIronFab]

My 2000 Excursion has 4.30 gears and a l/s if you think about a Sterling candidates.

[ChaseTruck754]

Sterlings are a good choice too. It's what I ended up putting in the crew instead of a 14b. Did so because of the disk brake with parking brake setup on the sterling & overall cost being cheaper than adding these parts to a 14b.

Sterlings are just as heavy as the 14b and 60.

As for the the question about the 99-04 super dookies being the same lug pattenr as the old d50 - no. 99+ super dookies went 8x170mm lug pattern. 97 & earlier were 8x6.5". There were only the 7 lug, odd ball, heavy duty F-150 things in '98 - so that's why the year gap.

Funny thing is the 8 lug vans didn't ever go to metric lug pattern. or if they did they did so after 2010. These late model vans use a disk braked d60 rear. I think the snouts & hubs may be a bit different than the early d60's though. Not 100% sure on this as I didn't do much reading on the van 60's after I decided to go 10.5 sterling (99+) in my truck. The 97 & older sterlings were the 10.25. Snouts/hubs & fear setups are a bit different between the 2 styles.

[Seabass]

Sterling has got the vss too huh? Wonder how hard it would be to make it 5x5.5

[ChaseTruck754]

sterling does - both 10.25 & 10.5. If changing the lug pattern I'd look at the 10.5's out of the 99+ super dookies as they have the disk brakes with the parking brake already.

I had my lug pattern changed on the 10.5 sterling to the older, 8x6.5 pattern. I may have a bit of the hub in cad. Lemme have a look quickly & see if I do & if 5x5.5 is doable.

[ChaseTruck754]

I don't have that drawn in cad. Just a thing for figuring out my stud lengths.

But... I ran out & measured the center/hub & it's about 4.75". And mine has been turned down slightly to fit in the center bore of the 16" alcoas offered on the 90's HD trucks.
Based on that 5x5.5 might be very tight to machine. Someone may very well offer hubs though. I'd check the typicals = ballistic & core or whoever it was that makes the 14b ones. I know I've posted links here somewhere...

[ChaseTruck754]

Damn the no edit - Solid. That was the other one.

[Seabass]

Thanks Steve! Im wondering if the holes could be welded up and machined if there is enough room in the center.

[ChaseTruck754]

my concern would be the center bore needed to go over the hub vs. the lug pattern & how much wheel is left there between the 2. I'm not into what I'm currently doing at work so I'll whip something up in cad to explain.

[ChaseTruck754]

Ok - here's a quick drawing to show how close the lug holes would get to the center bore. My guess is the lugs would hit the center of the hub itself maybe.

This drawing shows a 4.80" center bore - which would be minimal to clear the hub, and then both a 5/8" and 9/16" stud. Not much room for play between the 2

[baja-chris]

sterling does - both 10.25 & 10.5. If changing the lug pattern I'd look at the 10.5's out of the 99+ super dookies as they have the disk brakes with the parking brake already.

I had my lug pattern changed on the 10.5 sterling to the older, 8x6.5 pattern. I may have a bit of the hub in cad. Lemme have a look quickly & see if I do & if 5x5.5 is doable.

I have converted my Sterling 10.25 to use the E350 van disk brakes with parking brake - truck sized brakes instead of the Chevy sedan parts other conversions use.
I had to sand the inside of the parking brake pad support a bit to clear the backside of the Sterling hub. And I had to cut off the old brake mounting bracket from the rear end and weld on a new one.
Once that is done it's bolt on and uses stock rotors and pads that any auto parts place sells. I got my donor parts from the junk yard but bought new calipers because they are cheap and new.
If anyone wants the bracket to do this, I made a template and would make more at $100/pr. You can also get new Dorman parking brake cables that you attach to the stock cable.