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Rmc wrote:Seems like clearances are ok, how about toe changes in the 4 positions ? ( both tuck, single tuck single droop , & both droop) if toe looks good in the. 4 positions I think you have something that will work.

The driver side was perfect with no toe, the passanger had barley anything noticeable(due to it's going straight to pitman arm so it's a little off, but drivers side beam is center with tierod pivot) , the PVC was flexing a little but from the weight and gravity from either side at bump but I had someone was taking the pressure to make sure it was in right place, swinger is same length as my pitman arm which was 6" eye to eye so I feel like it's good, learned it all off this forum, ill post up final results after I get my real tubes in

I posted up all this junk on steering because I've searched the web for 10 years and there's very little in the way of explanation on a proper set up. Keep in mind there's no such thing as perfect but you can get very very close if your measurements are accurate. Take your time , mind the motion ratios and if there are irregularities then either you've exceeded the usable motion range or an initial measurement was not accurate. All this being said you will know if it's good or bad plain as day. Good luck and it looks good .

With a single swing set-up it will never be perfect, just get it as good as you can. Also try and see if you can set it up with less bend in the actual tie rods. Also think about using 1.25" x .375w tubing too. That will help with tie rod flexing as well.

- Scott

motoxscott wrote:With a single swing set-up it will never be perfect, just get it as good as you can. Also try and see if you can set it up with less bend in the actual tie rods. Also think about using 1.25" x .375w tubing too. That will help with tie rod flexing as well.

- Scott

Good advise.

motoxscott wrote:With a single swing set-up it will never be perfect, just get it as good as you can. Also try and see if you can set it up with less bend in the actual tie rods. Also think about using 1.25" x .375w tubing too. That will help with tie rod flexing as well.

- Scott

We just switched to 1.5" .375 wall 4130 for the tie rod that has the bend in it. Ends are drilled and tapped to take 7/8 heims.

Steve, can you make this a sticky?

Done!

Need help!

Running 4.5 over beams

have single swing threat kit with psc ram assist , new steering box, saginaw pump, new hoses and fittings.

Question is?

What kind of pitman arm do I use?

Double shear yes, but will I need a 4" or 6" drop pitman arm?

Pics would be best,

Thanks

Dosnt matter. Pitman arm radius and swing radius should match to achieve 1:1 motion ratio. Read back a few pages, I think the majority is broken down for you.

You'll need to cycle everything to check clearance to determine if a drop arm is even needed.

Ok
RMC went back re read entire post albeit while playing with my kids.
So I may have missed something!

I have a ram psc system and think a drop pitman would work best??
Please input your thots

Like this photo.

The stock appears to not be as strong and would need additional support and longer bolt for the ram.
Like in this photo.

Or is stock pitman better geometry?

To me there's 2 main rules,
1st:tierods must as closely as possible mirror the beam radius length ( measuring shown prior)
2nd motion ratio between idler ( swing) and pitman arm must be identicle to ensure both tires move the same amount when connected on a single swing set up like your picture.

Everything else is packaging for clearance needs. The shape of the pitman arm has No effect on the outcome of whether the measurements were takin correctly. If you need the pitman lower for the ram eye to clear at full turn in either direction then a drop arm is needed. Keep in mind you can mount the ram assisting the swing vs the pitman if needed. As long as the load is assisted it will eleaviate some load on the sector shaft. Ideally though the set up would be dual swing with the ram assisting in the movement of both swings vs one ( as in the single swinger assist mounting version)

If you think about it... You could run a double swing set up and create a mechanical advantage or ratioed motion vs the 1:1 ratio of what the pitman arm to single swing common radius shared is doing. Kinda like lever actuated quick steer. It would up the load on the sector shaft though.

Read from page 11 on, and check out my crappy scetches. If the pivot of the beam and pivot of the steering have a shared plane centerline and the swing/pitman a 1:1 motion ratio your good to go so long as the tierod radius length matches the beam/ radius arm's radius. The drawing of beam/radius centerline should explain that part.

Beam/radius arm combo radius= tierod length
Pitman/swing= 1:1 motion ratio
And radius pivot point,shared plane centerline= beam pivot to steering pivot relationship aka where the tierods pivot from in relation to the beam pivot. Same height is ideal.

And don't forget, cycle, cycle cycle.

Seabass wrote:Hows ford 3 bolt 700 saginaw box ($1100) needs one bolt hole opened up to fit and you need to fab up a pitman arm. While on the phone I was told there is a rare early 80s ford pattern saginaw box that is a direct bolt on...

Seabass did you ever figure this box out?.... I am very willing to mod the frame for a affordable strong Saginaw box if I can go to Napa and buy it.

BIG-B wrote:

Seabass wrote:Hows ford 3 bolt 700 saginaw box ($1100) needs one bolt hole opened up to fit and you need to fab up a pitman arm. While on the phone I was told there is a rare early 80s ford pattern saginaw box that is a direct bolt on...

Seabass did you ever figure this box out?.... I am very willing to mod the frame for a affordable strong Saginaw box if I can go to Napa and buy it.

Just by chance, I found the answer to this yesterday. If you guys ever get a chance, take a look under Sandy Cone's Bronco. He has a Saginaw box under it with a fantastic steering system. To glance at it, it's nothing special but the Sandy did a great job (and is a hell of a nice guy, too). I always said, if I do a crossover steering system, I'm using tie rod ends because I want to be able to align it without it being a complete pain in the ass... well, Sandy did this. He also heat treated everything and used a Saginaw box out of a 67-68 Galaxie. Evidently, they use the same pattern as the Broncos. Again. nothing too out of the ordinary to glance at, but if you take some time, you can see it's a well-thought out system that works great.

FYI: Sandy is at KOH, so if you see him, tell him Steve from Rugged says hi and that he did a bitchin' job on his steering.

Did Sandy and his buddy (forget his name) ever get their GFB stuff going? A few years ago it sounded like they were going to start building some trucks - kind of like LeDuc did (and I think Sandy's truck is a LeDuc built truck).

Todd Z.

Sandy's is Leduc-built. When he bought it, it still had stock steering which I thought was interesting as it is linked and widened and all that good stuff. Sandy built the steering on it and really did a great job. He had it loaded on the trailer, ready to head to KOH yesterday. He said his son (I can't remember his name) has one, too that is still on leaves.

No pics of mr cone's bronco??

I'll try and get some at the Hammers if I see it.