GoFastBroncos.com

Kel Fab Creations wrote:It doesn't matter what length you make the swinger.

True if the crossover and steering links pivot at the same point, but it does matter when the crossover is offset from the steering link. In this case, if the swinger and pitman are different lengths the motion ratio/travels will be different.

so if I move the drive side pivot to 6" it would work as is?

Dezurfer wrote:so if I move the drive side pivot to 6" it would work as is?

No. you still have a mechanical advantage on the swinger. You would have to move the drag link down to the same point as the tie rod mount to make it work right moving that end.

Yeah, gonna have to put them side by side.

Both sides must mirror eachother in construction and radius length to create no added motion ratio. You can't stack em linearly only parrellel. Unless you modify both the pitman arm and the swing. Both sides gotta match. As my kids say " matchie matchie"
The linear or parallel construction dosnt matter as long as both the swing and pitman arm are identical. Rule: 1:1 motion ratio between pitman and swing.

That brings me to a question in my own mind... Accerman is applied by entire systems inward or outward relationship to the beam ends? I never put that much thought into it because the toe was my enemy and it was only intended for dirt. Anyone know?

Rmc wrote:Both sides must mirror eachother in construction and radius length to create no added motion ratio.

Not true, radius lengths can be different as long as motion ratio is the same. The longer the swinger the better. Short swingers move up and down quite a bit throughout there travel. This does bad things for bumpsteer at full lock. It will also mess up your accerman. Making them longer also helps move the drag link up out of the way. The Autofab kit is about as short as I would go.

Have had another wild thought for a while that I have yet to get to try. Rotating the steering box up to make it swing vertical to match the swinger. Would take up much less room when cycling and allow you to package the tierods much closer. Strait tierods would be pretty easy then.

BDKW1 wrote:

Rmc wrote:Both sides must mirror eachother in construction and radius length to create no added motion ratio.

Not true, radius lengths can be different as long as motion ratio is the same. The longer the swinger the better. Short swingers move up and down quite a bit throughout there travel. This does bad things for bumpsteer at full lock. It will also mess up your accerman. Making them longer also helps move the drag link up out of the way. The Autofab kit is about as short as I would go.

Have had another wild thought for a while that I have yet to get to try. Rotating the steering box up to make it swing vertical to match the swinger. Would take up much less room when cycling and allow you to package the tierods much closer. Strait tierods would be pretty easy then.

I know your correct I was referring to the dudes set up because it seems like he is missing the consept of 1:1 motion ratio.

BDKW1 wrote:If you mount the drag link 3.45" out on the pitman, all will be good.

yeah this works but, how did you get these numbers btw? I just want to understand the two radius matching.
This wasn't me understanding the 1 to 1 motion. It was leaving it to one person & not 4 chiefs trying to do the work.

I see how autofabs kit is & thats what I told him to copy. But, really want to understand the math on offset mount of the pitman mounts & swing mounts.

I got that# from the motion ratio on the swinger. 7" long swinger with the drag link 4" out makes a 1.75 motion ratio. 6" long pitman arm / by 1.75 MR= 3.428 Simple..........

BDKW1 wrote:I got that# from the motion ratio on the swinger. 7" long swinger with the drag link 4" out makes a 1.75 motion ratio. 6" long pitman arm / by 1.75 MR= 3.428 Simple..........

And 2.25" should provide adequate clearance for heims side by side.

Add 2.25" to what the pitman length?

And, not add. He is talking about the spread between the hiems with the dimensions I gave.

Dam, guys Im still mind boggled by the actual help here & not weeding thru drama or BS. Had to order another pitman to drill & box-in. Will be here on Friday & should be ready for race day next Saturday.

Weld some shock boss around the hole you drill through it. This will reinforce the hole which is now a weak spot and also give you a nice mounting surface for the hiem. Weld a platge of the top of the arm to double shear it. Should end up looking just like an Autofab one........

[quote="Dezurfer"]Dam, guys Im still mind boggled by the actual help here & not weeding thru drama or BS.

I think that's why we're here, the lack of bs drama. It's a nice complement to everyone.

I'm wearing out google trying to learn about this box, what it's original application was and if it fits the ford frame with out extensive modification... Or is this simply the factory box? I've found some info stating it was a mid 70's chevy application.

Any one here know about it and if this could be the silver bullet for weak sector shafts on our trucks?

Seabass wrote:
the silver bullet for weak sector shafts on our trucks?

I though this was the $$$ hydralic assist I know what you mean though

I am interested to see what you come up with.

Hows ford 3 bolt 700 saginaw box ($1100) needs one bolt hole opened up to fit and you need to fab up a pitman arm. While on the phone I was told there is a rare early 80s ford pattern saginaw box that is a direct bolt on...

Alright so i want your input on this, do you see any issues? Full droop Tucked right Tucked left I had one binding issue but I fixed that and now I don't, but at full bump the closest my tierods come is a little less then 1cm, the PVC Was flexing and pulling so the steering looks as if it has some bump steer but when it sits in place the passanger has barley any, I'm using 7/8s hiem with 5/8s bolt, 3/4 on the single swing, and 1.25" .250 wall 4130 threaded, I feel like theres a lot of bend but I need it for clearencing, seem good? And yes I still need to double shear my pitman arm and re shear my spindles

Seems like clearances are ok, how about toe changes in the 4 positions ? ( both tuck, single tuck single droop , & both droop) if toe looks good in the. 4 positions I think you have something that will work.