Page 3 of 3
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 3:38 pm
by philofab
Run the parking brake.
My 8.8 cables worked fine on my 9".
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:33 pm
by cwrisley
I pulled the parking cables, not too hard. Install first thing tomorrow!
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 12:47 pm
by shockseals.com
I love when I forget things and I google it + go fast broncos in the search and come up with a topic I started with all the information I was going on the web to find.
Time for a new rear driveshaft and I didn't want to pull it to measure. Google is a motherfucker!
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 1:10 pm
by tcm glx
Hahaha, that's classic.
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 4:50 pm
by shockseals.com
anybody know what bronco graveyard used in their driveshaft assemblies? The complete driveshaft seems pretty cheap at $249
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/1990-96 ... nfo/32416/
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 5:46 pm
by ChaseTruck754
Don't know what parts they use but I will say I have no clue how they do some of the pricing they do. Must do an unbelievable amount of volume. They beat everybody on Deaver prices - even including shipping most times! And they were cheaper than anybody I could find for the art carr shifters. Hell even Culhane said his cost was more than what they were selling them for.
Plus on the d shaft it's probably just work done out of our over priced bubble.
Story on that:
I've got a buddy who just moved to Texas. He's used Wade at Drivelines unlimited for years. As in 20 years or so. He had a shaft rebuilt shortened & different yoke welded on out in Texas and he told me the entire thing, parts & all was less than Wade charges for just the labor of the shortening. My buddy said it was same parts, same quality as Wade's stuff, just half the cost or so.
I've used Wade as have many people around So. Cal. He does good work for sure, it's just expensive by comparison to other parts of the country.
Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 10:06 pm
by hobbyturnedobsession
I bought my old J40s from bronco graveyard. Over 150.00 less than deaver including shipping which wasn't cheap. I've bought from them quite a few times. Their stuff has been good quality in my opinion. I also had their motor mounts as well. Back when autofab made them and didn't copy the design.
Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 10:10 pm
by hobbyturnedobsession
I had a drive line shortened along with a few other odds and ends done in Escondido. I believe it was Escondido drive line but I may be wrong. They did a great job and only charged me 168.00. Walked me through proper measurements. They were familiar with off road as they built quite a few leaf sprung race trucks.
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 5:29 pm
by dtbback
This may not be the correct thread to post this question, so I apologize in advance. Does anyone happen to know the fitting size for the rear line that joins the tee on the axle housing?
I am trying to purchase all new fittings online for my swap and want to run new hard lines with a -3AN tee but I want to see if one is made so I don't have to buy an adapter for that specific union. Thanks in advance.
-Will
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 3:51 pm
by dtbback
shockseals.com wrote:Details:
1996
5.8L
4spd auto
Electric T-Case
Factory Driveshaft from U joint centerline to first u joint centerline on double cardan(basically not account for CV and flange(4.5") or flange at pinion(1.5")
20 9/16 Min
24 11/16 Max
Why did I measure that way? Its easier to measure it accurately since there is no angle to work with.
With 9" installed at 25.5 degrees pinion angle and roughly 4" of lift
Fully Drooped (0" travel) 23.5" U joint to u Joint
Ride Height(9" travel) D-shaft measurement: 23" u joint to joint
Fully Bottomed D-Shaft Measurement(16" travel): 21.75" U joint to u joint
The rear u joint if you run a 1330 Yoke is the same U joint as the two front driveshaft u joints. 3.625 Wide with 2x 1.0625 and 2x1.125 caps
Spicer good stuff is 5-792X or parts house cheapo is 434.
Stock driveshaft works just fine. I would only suggest paying to have it made or making it an inch longer yourself if you have a lot of horsepower.
Mark @ southwest has the nicest VSS relocator. Install it with 12pt head bolts and carry a spare driveshaft flange or nuts for the said bolts above so if you have to remove the rear d-shaft and drive with front wheel drive you can fasten the ring down instead of having to pull the flange off the T case to remove the ring.
Hopefully this info benefits somebody doing the swap. I only found ambiguous half ass info on the web which is why I hope to save somebody else the frustration from lack of info on something lots of people have done or want to do.
Bumping an old thread. Regarding lengthening the driveshaft 1", can anyone see an issue with using a 5" yolk instead of a standard 4" yolk to get that extra inch?
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:48 am
by VintageIronFab
Increases your angle just that much more.
Re: 8.8 to 9" swap info on driveshaft and u joint
Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:49 am
by VintageIronFab
It also might give you a vibration in the driveline due to the axle you joints not pointing exactly where it needs to