E4OD & long Radius arms
E4OD & long Radius arms
Heads up
Turns out the rear attach at the frame is not at the frame cross menber like it is for a C6.
My frame had twisted almost 2". The frame had no cracks as Glen used the porta power to put the frame back in place. Then he added a proper bolted in place crossmember. It has a curve to miss the transfer and allow the tranny pan to be removed without removing the new member.
Easy to overlook since all Glen's race truck builds used the C6.
Another way might be to make the arm longer to attach at the Ford crossmember?
Paul
Turns out the rear attach at the frame is not at the frame cross menber like it is for a C6.
My frame had twisted almost 2". The frame had no cracks as Glen used the porta power to put the frame back in place. Then he added a proper bolted in place crossmember. It has a curve to miss the transfer and allow the tranny pan to be removed without removing the new member.
Easy to overlook since all Glen's race truck builds used the C6.
Another way might be to make the arm longer to attach at the Ford crossmember?
Paul
- SteveG
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
This is a common issue with the E4OD trucks. Maybe the AOD as well?
Autofab bushing radius arms come with parts to build a cross member between the pivot brackets.
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... 9&start=20
Autofab bushing radius arms come with parts to build a cross member between the pivot brackets.
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... 9&start=20
Sho nuff,
SteveG
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Thanks Steve. I am absent a lot and did not see that thread.
I suppose the Autofab item would only work with their RAs? Not a big deal to make one from scratch.
Another example of Autofab having the good stuff to allow the diy guys to have a succesful build.
Paul
PS actually my front system was built by Spirit - not Glen.
PW
I suppose the Autofab item would only work with their RAs? Not a big deal to make one from scratch.
Another example of Autofab having the good stuff to allow the diy guys to have a succesful build.
Paul
PS actually my front system was built by Spirit - not Glen.
PW
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
That's the reason my arms are so long on my crew cab. I just measured to the cross member. It made them like 54" or so long. I have noticed no ill effects from such long arms.
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Yeah, the plates are specific to their pivot brackets.PaulW wrote:I suppose the Autofab item would only work with their RAs?
Rather than go under the trans, you could maybe build a K-shaped cross member that bolts to the trans cross member then extends forward to the pivot brackets and straddling the trans pan.
Sho nuff,
SteveG
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
This only works with the bushing ra's?SteveG wrote:This is a common issue with the E4OD trucks. Maybe the AOD as well?
Autofab bushing radius arms come with parts to build a cross member between the pivot brackets.
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... 9&start=20
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Would this also be a problem with heimed radius arms? I know that my travel stops before I run out of movement in the heim.
I'm just here for the views. It helps me feel wanted.
Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
===hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Would this also be a problem with heimed radius arms? I know that my travel stops before I run out of movement in the heim.
Yes in fact my Hiem was all the way to its limit. Problem is lack of lateral positioning that a cross member provides. Locate the cross member at the pivot bracket then the required stiffness is provided.
Bottom line: If you have an E4OD you have to have a crossmember at the pivot bracket. If it is curved like the Autofab or like mine then it has to be very stout. Preferable to have it removable with stout bolts.
Paul
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Thanks for the info Paul I have been considering building new arms and a new trans crossmember that are integrated with the thought of adding 2 link mounts as well now I know this is more of a priority. Good info for all.
Jeremy
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Thank you very much Paul I'll have to learn how to bend tube now. I appreciate the info very important.
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Yup. E4OD trucks require a custom cross member.Nick wrote:This only works with the bushing ra's?
Sho nuff,
SteveG
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
I'd say heim joint arms are more problematic since the heims have no "give" to them.hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Would this also be a problem with heimed radius arms? I know that my travel stops before I run out of movement in the heim.
Sho nuff,
SteveG
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
X2 on this. The only positive of a Heim is it lasts longer even if everything else doesn't.SteveG wrote:I'd say heim joint arms are more problematic since the heims have no "give" to them.
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
just wanted give a heads up on a few things concerning that cross member and johns radius arms... the bent cross member was bent to fit with the e4od that i have. john gave me, with the front suspension kit, a straight 1 1/2" x .120 wall (i think .120 wall, not positive) of tubing, non DOM. I replaced it with a DOM 1 1/2" x .095 wall and made the bends to fit over the pan. i told john that his straight tube didn't fit and he assumed that i had a deep pan and never looked under my truck. I didn't know what i had at the time... but anyways, i've only seen a deep pan for the e4od on the net and never under a bronco... i'm pretty sure i have a stock pan and that his set up with the straight tube was ment for the AOD... which is fine, u just gotta do some bending.PaulW wrote:===hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Would this also be a problem with heimed radius arms? I know that my travel stops before I run out of movement in the heim.
Yes in fact my Hiem was all the way to its limit. Problem is lack of lateral positioning that a cross member provides. Locate the cross member at the pivot bracket then the required stiffness is provided.
Bottom line: If you have an E4OD you have to have a crossmember at the pivot bracket. If it is curved like the Autofab or like mine then it has to be very stout. Preferable to have it removable with stout bolts.
Paul
anyways, just wanted to let ya know that if u have the e4od and you want to get john's radius arms and cross member brackets you're going to need to bend some tube. and one more thing is that i placed the cross member too far forward on the plate and my shift linkage hits it. 1 1/2" diameter is as large as one could go and it needs to be placed low and to the back of the plate to allow clearance. i cycled my suspension but not my shift linkage! i was dumb.
hope this helps. and i'm running the bushing ra's BTW
Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Crossmember installed:
1.5" dia . Forgot to ask Glen what wall thickness. Fits above the tranny skid and backs up to the transfer skid.
1.5" dia . Forgot to ask Glen what wall thickness. Fits above the tranny skid and backs up to the transfer skid.
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
I like it, Paul. That's similar to what I was thinking.
Sho nuff,
SteveG
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
I figured this would work.
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Thats a really good idea. Is it welded up or bolted up? If it was welded up then isn't it a little difficult changing the trans filter?
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Looks to be bolted up. You can see a bolt in the stock front cross member above the driver side beam. Then the radius arm mounts themselves are bolted to the frame.
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
I like that, too! Pete Albano built a similar brace for his Ranger which uses axle-pivot drop brackets... helps the radius arm mounts and the rear axle pivot bracket.mkiefer wrote:I figured this would work.
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Sho nuff,
SteveG
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