E4OD & long Radius arms
- hobbyturnedobsession
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Paul can you explain that setup a little more? Thats basically what I'm running and currently would look to be the best solution.
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- philofab
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Mark's skid plate is nice but I don't like the idea that the radius arm pivots need to be removed to access the trans and filter. Wouldn't be much more work to make it bolt to the pivots. I would think that it adds quite a bit of strength to the front crossmember, which is a plus.
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- hobbyturnedobsession
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
It makes sense. Basing it off of a triangulation correct?
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
==hobbyturnedobsession wrote:Paul can you explain that setup a little more? Thats basically what I'm running and currently would look to be the best solution.
Study the pics. You see a tube that the end of the crossmember is welded to. The tube has a 1/4" plate welded to the other end end and the Heim bolt passes thru that plate. Wenching is accomplished with a deep impact socket. The crossmember is just above my stranny kid brackets whch are nothing more than angle bolted to the stock transfer skid. One of these angles is shown.
The crossmember is in compression so unless it is straight the curve need a substantial gusset as shown. Removable is required to drop the tranny and you should have as much clearance as possible to the tranny pan to allow it to be dropped for filter change. Mine has the max clearance possible. Time will tell if it is enough to drop the pan.
To remove my crossmember one removes the Heim nut then the bolt is driven outboard just enough to allow the crossmember to drop. That way the Heim wont be out of place for the reinstall.
Paul
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
Paul do you have a full under shot of it? What keeps it from rotating on the heim pivot bolts?
Kris Hernandez
shockseals.com
shockseals.com
Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
==shockseals.com wrote:Paul do you have a full under shot of it? What keeps it from rotating on the heim pivot bolts?
Nothing. Just the clamping force on the big bolt. Having said that I cannot vision any force that acts to rotate it. One could get it to rotate if a jack was used on it to lift the truck, but there is no way to get a jack on it because it is above the transfer skid. No way for a rock to do it for the same reason.
Of course would be easy to put it back in place after loosening the nuts. It would be just as functional in any clock position. Useful if the tranny pan hits it for filter change. Just rotate it out of the way. Could not do that if it was welded.
Guys, It is a good question Is there any way the load from squeezing the frame rails toward each other to put the bar in compression that could cause it to rotate? You saw my opinion.
Paul
- philofab
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
If one was really that worried about it you could simply add a tab and bolt it to the x-member.
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
My concern was a rock smacking it and it crashing into something...but clearly it isnt possible for a rock to hit it from what you said.PaulW wrote:==shockseals.com wrote:Paul do you have a full under shot of it? What keeps it from rotating on the heim pivot bolts?
Nothing. Just the clamping force on the big bolt. Having said that I cannot vision any force that acts to rotate it. One could get it to rotate if a jack was used on it to lift the truck, but there is no way to get a jack on it because it is above the transfer skid. No way for a rock to do it for the same reason.
Of course would be easy to put it back in place after loosening the nuts. It would be just as functional in any clock position. Useful if the tranny pan hits it for filter change. Just rotate it out of the way. Could not do that if it was welded.
Guys, It is a good question Is there any way the load from squeezing the frame rails toward each other to put the bar in compression that could cause it to rotate? You saw my opinion.
Paul
Kris Hernandez
shockseals.com
shockseals.com
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
It does bolt to the pivots. You do have to take the 5/8 nut off the bolt and nock it back flush with the bracket. The brackets are tottally seperate though. I am wayyyyyy to lazy to take off my radius arm brackets to do a trans service. and i drilled a hole in the skid plate under the drain plug. And it has a remote filter toophilofab wrote:Mark's skid plate is nice but I don't like the idea that the radius arm pivots need to be removed to access the trans and filter. Wouldn't be much more work to make it bolt to the pivots. I would think that it adds quite a bit of strength to the front crossmember, which is a plus.
Mark Kiefer
Southwest Performance
858-449-2292
http://www.southwestperformance.net
Pics
http://www.photobucket.com/home/southwe ... /allalbums
http://www.facebook.com/SouthwestPerformance
Southwest Performance
858-449-2292
http://www.southwestperformance.net
Pics
http://www.photobucket.com/home/southwe ... /allalbums
http://www.facebook.com/SouthwestPerformance
- philofab
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Re: E4OD & long Radius arms
I see it now that I'm looking for it. It did seem uncharacteristic of you.mkiefer wrote:It does bolt to the pivots. You do have to take the 5/8 nut off the bolt and nock it back flush with the bracket. The brackets are tottally seperate though. I am wayyyyyy to lazy to take off my radius arm brackets to do a trans service. and i drilled a hole in the skid plate under the drain plug. And it has a remote filter too
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