Start Your Go-Fast Build-Rear Suspension

[yikes]

Thumbs up for ruff stuff their products and service are bar none. I've seen their housings in action at KOH and they seemed to be just as well built and designed as any of the top tier products out there. Wouldn't hesitate to run any of their parts and I've been using their heims exclusively on personal and customer vehicles for years with zero issues

They make some great products at bargain prices, but I have to say...my experience with their heims and misalignment bushings was not so good. They may be strong and durable, but after using for a short time on my steering, there was a lot of undesirable play in the heims. Ended up switching to FK's. Four of the six 5/8 bushings measured .639-.640, the others were at .626.

[kylesgorter]

Interesting. I've only used their 1 1/4 and 7/8 heims with no issues from the heims or spacers. I've also used fk many times with no issues either and the only real difference was the injected bearings of the ruff stuff heims though like I said never had a problem and I have always felt they were quieter. Either way good company from my experience and good price

[cs_drums]

I like ruff stuff for there brackets and stuff like that but have no experience with there housings. I just bought a Dirt tech housing and it is an awesome piece of work!

[slawson2000]

Question. I am in the process gathering pieces to put in some F53's on my Bronco. I am down to the front connection of the spring to the hanger. I have seen most use a spacer either side of the spring. However my front bolt is 5/8" not 9/16". I am not sure what is done here - just use the smaller bolt or get a poly bushing for the 3" and trim it down?

Then I had an idea that makes sense (to me anyway) and I thought I would throw it out there for consideration. If I used a stock style metal sleeve rub bushing for the 3" wide springs and pressed it in to that it was centered in the 2.5" springs, wouldn't that work? Pro's / Con's / thoughts?

[philofab]

Question. I am in the process gathering pieces to put in some F53's on my Bronco. I am down to the front connection of the spring to the hanger. I have seen most use a spacer either side of the spring. However my front bolt is 5/8" not 9/16". I am not sure what is done here - just use the smaller bolt or get a poly bushing for the 3" and trim it down?

Then I had an idea that makes sense (to me anyway) and I thought I would throw it out there for consideration. If I used a stock style metal sleeve rub bushing for the 3" wide springs and pressed it in to that it was centered in the 2.5" springs, wouldn't that work? Pro's / Con's / thoughts?

Most people run the smaller bolt without issue, the small amount of oversize will not create an issue on most trucks. If you are worried about it a set of weld washers would fit the oversized hole.

[Rmc]

A lot of guys also grind off the rivets on the hangers and replace the rivets with bolts so if u stretch the eyes out there easily replaceable. But weld washers or spacers is my plan also.

[slawson2000]

So you guys are running poly bushings?

[Rmc]

Yes poly bushings from autofab, make shure u measure both spring eyes as most Are not the same at both ends. The poly bushings have a 1/4 inch perside shoulder so keep that in mind. My springs are 2.5" wide, 1/4 inch worth of poly shoulder per side and 4 .250 spacers ill machine for each leaf spring.

[philofab]

I run rubber only. I don't care for poly.

[Rmc]

I was having a hard time finding rubber in my size. philo any suppliers u recommend?

[philofab]

Deaver has what you need.

[Rmc]

Thanks bro.

[D1cker1]

If running a set of q80s with extended shackles to obtain maximum droop, should I use a 3.0 14, or 16 since the bronco benefits from more up travel.

Using a 14 it would be almost fully extended.

[Seabass]

Tony I think thats all relative to shock placement and if your driveline can handle the angle. Theres never any harm in haveing more shock. The only downside is the packaging. Especially if your trying to keep the bed intact.

[robertcrav]

If you go thru the floor I think you can run a 14-16

But if you wan to keep it relatively low height I think you can still not run a 12" short body under the floor

[D1cker1]

I know for sure 18s will travel from my tires to the roof in length. 14-16 seems like the magic number.

[D1cker1]

Going through the bed yes..

[cs_drums]

If you going through the bed run a 16-18" travel. There is no reason to run any smaller if your already cutting through the bed.

[Rmc]

I got 18's for mine I have yet to install.

[Rmc]

I know for sure 18s will travel from my tires to the roof in length. 14-16 seems like the magic number.

The body of the shock where exposed shaft starts is at the bottom of the frame, from there upward the remaining body( frame thickness+body mount height+ floor should put the top of the shock eye right about the height of the factory rear seat +/-) I believe u could fit 20x2.5 no prob, but usable shock is the question... Depends on shackle, axel angle, bottom eye mounting location ect. Only way to find out is cycle it. For all who don't know here's how it's done( first pic) example photo( second pic). Remove all leafs but the longest( clamp leafs with c clamps before removing leaf braces. Release slowly and carefully. Place leaf stack total thickness spacer in the removed leafs location and assemble with u bolts to axel. First location to check is full compression for tire clearance and full bump location which defines shock hoop height. Then full droop, this defines limit strap length ( depending on where u want to mount them), driveline should spin unbound at both locations if it dosnt axel angle and or ujoint clearance issues exist.