Start Your Go-Fast Build-Rear Suspension

Deleted Account · Post by **Deleted Account** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:40 am

One super quick tidit of advice for the upper uniballl. If you can find a way to seal it up you will be a much happier guy. That is the only ball i have to replace every race and it is because the cup holds the dirt and it wears out the liner. i would still rather have the ball though because its near impossible to keep a hiem tight on the upper link. Even some kind of foam would help. But other then that it looks really good. nice design and workmanship too.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:43 am

Very nice, same thing on the links though... I would drill a couple of small holes in the canoe to allow water to drain.

Any plans for a sway bar in back?

Deleted Account · Post by **Deleted Account** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:48 am

philofab wrote:Very nice, same thing on the links though... I would drill a couple of small holes in the canoe to allow water to drain.

Any plans for a sway bar in back?

x2 i ussally put a 5/8 or 3/4 tube in for drainage

baja-chris · Post by **baja-chris** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:38 am

Leaf springs are a sway bar. And the need for a sway bar is also a function of suspension geometry and setup as well as driver comfort. Right now I don't think we will need one but if we do then we will build one. Remember it's a racecar for the dirt. Highway manners are mostly irrelevant.

Thought about drain holes but left them out. It's not like a prerunner where you might use it and park it with water and silt collecting in pockets. It will be cleaned out each use and it's easy to blow the water out of those pockets. For the rear uniball, I was thinking of some rubber flaps but not sure if they would really help.

baja-chris · Post by **baja-chris** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:10 pm

Cut up a bunch of 3/16" 4130 plate to make the four shackle hanger brackets (and the front radius arm pivots which are in another thread). The rear shackle bracket gets a cross member under the frame. The front one will have to do without since the rear links use that space, instead they will just tie into the cage.

RSR · Post by **RSR** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 10:54 am

Thank you Baja Chris. Great build thread.

Andy Jones · Post by **Andy Jones** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:30 pm

Where do the .25" machined spacers go on the 2.5 spring packs??

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:32 pm

one on either side

Andy Jones · Post by **Andy Jones** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:11 pm

Of the spring hangers! Ha ha!!. I figured it out!!. Called Philo

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:22 pm

Sorry - I could have posted a bit more. I guess I figured it was pretty self explanatory. 2.5" wide spring instead of 3" wide spring and .25" wide spacers - 2 of which = .5" Anyways - yes, 1 spacer goes on either side of the springs at the front spring hanger & the rear shackle.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:25 pm

He has conversion shackles so just four spacers for the front spring pivot/hangar.

He called 1-800-2GO-FAST...

Andy Jones · Post by **Andy Jones** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:37 pm

philofab wrote:He has conversion shackles so just four spacers for the front spring pivot/hangar.

He called 1-800-2GO-FAST...

Ha ha! I like that!!

ogre20012001 · Post by **ogre20012001** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:46 am

ok so i have a question for you all. i dont have the money right now to buy leaf springs and i dont really want to lift my bronco anymore than it is.(right now i have rear mainly stock and front lifted 2.5" via moog coils cc826 and tuff country drop brackets.)

any way i was just wondering how well the factory springs held up to mild go fast stuff. i mainly use my bronco for trail running here in utah. i plan on a shock hoop for the back as i have all the material to build it.

what would a good and realativly inexpesive shock be that you might recomend also? and what lenght would i need?

Post by **SteveG** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:57 am

I would build the upper mount to accommodate a 2.5"x12" shock so you can upgrade down the road. In the meantime, put a Bilstein 5100 in it.

ogre20012001 · Post by **ogre20012001** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:28 pm

ok thanks.

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 2:41 pm

Took a gander under her and wow that's a short driveshaft. I think my arm is longer. I can see why it's the limiting factor here.

78Class3 · Post by **78Class3** » Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:24 am

Nice build. How long is your driveshaft gonna be? It doesn't look like it slips at all from full compression to full droop from looking at the pics.

Pre Run It · Post by **Pre Run It** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:26 am

Im going to be looking for rear shocks at Leduc this weekend and if the 2.5x12" kings and fox are to long and if i cant find a short body 12" bilstien or saw is there an option for a 10" king or fox to substitiute or am shooting myself in the foot by limiting the shock and losing travel gained by the deavers ?

Post by **SteveG** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:53 am

You can make a King or Fox work. You'll probably need to buy shorter rod ends for them, but they'll work.

Silverslk · Post by **Silverslk** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:49 am

Pre Run It wrote:Im going to be looking for rear shocks at Leduc this weekend and if the 2.5x12" kings and fox are to long and if i cant find a short body 12" bilstien or saw is there an option for a 10" king or fox to substitiute or am shooting myself in the foot by limiting the shock and losing travel gained by the deavers ?

Chris P just put Kings in his 86 Bronco with the Southwest upper mount. Take a look at his build thread.

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... &start=240