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I think you nailed it CS. It is only used for backup in go fast applications. But the biggest reason it is not used a lot more is because it will break if you push it hard. It is an advantage to use but I stopped using it much because of damage, then you have no backup.

cs_drums wrote:My $.02....

Honestly how many people are breaking d44 stuff? For the go fast stuff 4x4 is mostly an insurance. I dont see any reason to use D50 unless it was already on the truck.
Just my opinion.

I'm surprised more people are not using Dana 50 ttb parts. I mean we are building custom fabbed extended beams. Why not go with a larger hub while your at it? My main reason for using Dana 50 parts was I wanted to run 37s. And didn't feel comfortable running 37s hard on the 44 stuff. Also my reasoning for running Dana 50s is the ability to carry 2 spare hubs for truck. Eventually I will have a fabbed 9 inch full float with Dana 60 hubs on rear. Now my truck will have a spare spindle hub and everything I need for front or rear hub failure. Without spending more than 100$ for 2 spares.

From research, not experience so correct me if I'm wrong, the most common failure on the Dana 44 is cracking the knuckle around the spindle studs. Backing plate solves that (hopefully). I also like the 5x5.5 lug pattern cause it very common for racing so in a pinch spares can be shared etc. I get the wanting less differentiation between spares though.

cs_drums wrote:From research, not experience so correct me if I'm wrong, the most common failure on the Dana 44 is cracking the knuckle around the spindle studs. Backing plate solves that (hopefully). I also like the 5x5.5 lug pattern cause it very common for racing so in a pinch spares can be shared etc. I get the wanting less differentiation between spares though.

If its 5x5.5 you want solid makes Dana 60 hubs in the 5x5.5 pattern. And ballistic makes baller aluminum hubs.

drewbee88 wrote:ballistic makes baller aluminum hubs.

Blue Torch Fab also make very nice aluminum D60 hubs in any pattern.

BDKW1 wrote:

drewbee88 wrote:ballistic makes baller aluminum hubs.

Blue Torch Fab also make very nice aluminum D60 hubs in any pattern.

But at that point its not easy replacement. Dont get me wrong bigger is better. But does the extra strength merit the extra work, would it ever really come into play? That where I have my doubts. Maybe with more use and abuse I'll have a change of heart. Im making the jump from 35s to 37s next season. I deffinitly don't treat my truck nicely so I figure I'll know pretty quickly if I need to step it up to survive.

cs_drums wrote:

BDKW1 wrote:

drewbee88 wrote:ballistic makes baller aluminum hubs.

Blue Torch Fab also make very nice aluminum D60 hubs in any pattern.

But at that point its not easy replacement. Dont get me wrong bigger is better. But does the extra strength merit the extra work, would it ever really come into play? That where I have my doubts. Maybe with more use and abuse I'll have a change of heart. Im making the jump from 35s to 37s next season. I deffinitly don't treat my truck nicely so I figure I'll know pretty quickly if I need to step it up to survive.

Yeah that is why I said baller hubs. I will be running 8 lug to not spend as much money and have cheaper replacements. Solid industries sells a pair of hubs for 440. That's pretty cheap.

The Bad thing in the Solid Ind. conversion hubs. They are 2.25 narrower than stock. That is a shame.

Wrightracing.net wrote:The Bad thing in the Solid Ind. conversion hubs. They are 2.25 narrower than stock. That is a shame.

Not the Dana 60 hubs. I could've sworn they were stock width. And 14 bolt were narrower

drewbee88 wrote:

Wrightracing.net wrote:The Bad thing in the Solid Ind. conversion hubs. They are 2.25 narrower than stock. That is a shame.

Not the Dana 60 hubs. I could've sworn they were stock width. And 14 bolt were narrower

And that is probably due to the fact that they are using the same blanks for all 1 ton hubs

We are racing on D44 stuff with 37's and think it should be strong enough. I've been experimenting with D50 cross over yokes but have broken a couple of them (suspect I weakened them too much in clearancing). I put D44 yokes back in it for the upcoming Plaster City race. Going to try some other ideas with D50 customized yokes, talking to machinist. May have something new in the cross over yoke department for the Baja 500. So far we have been racing with the hubs unlocked because we do not yet have a reliable cross over axle setup. The goal is to get it to the point that we can race with hubs locked and then shift on the fly for situations where 4wd helps without risking breakage. Like muddy mountain roads for example. Using a Trutrac up front which is really sweet for that sort of thing.

If I was building a new prerun go fast play car, I'd do a D44/D50 hybrid that uses the D44 beam length and pivot point (but widened) and a D44 third member but use D50 outer beams to get the bigger parts with the goal being reduced maintenance. I'd build it to run 39's and would feel better about the bigger spindle and knuckle (BJ spread) with such a big tire. I would not get hung up on wheels, for a play car 8 bolt is fine as long as front and rear match. Or maybe do a 6 bolt pattern.

Chris,
Was the C8 truck that was so reliable have all D44 or some combo or other custom stuff?

drewbee88 wrote:

Wrightracing.net wrote:The Bad thing in the Solid Ind. conversion hubs. They are 2.25 narrower than stock. That is a shame.

Not the Dana 60 hubs. I could've sworn they were stock width. And 14 bolt were narrower

You are right about the 14 bolt. They said they did it to retain the stock axle length.

PaulW wrote:Chris,
Was the C8 truck that was so reliable have all D44 or some combo or other custom stuff?

It was all D44 stuff but it was only on 35" tires and had a bit less power than our race bronco.
Present owner has done some upgrades including 37's but afaik still all D44 front parts.
We are pushing the limits on droop travel, within the limits of class 3 width.
The 8 truck was wider than class 3 allows which means you could get same travel with less angle.
And we did break front axles on that truck but it never affected it's ability to find the finish line.
I tried D50 cross overs on that truck but they would not fit because they hit the engine cross member at full bump.
And I looked at blistering the cross member but the oil pan was right there.
LeDuc did some creative stuff on that truck, I don't think the pivots were stock location and the engine might have been dropped a bit.

baja-chris wrote:If I was building a new prerun go fast play car, I'd do a D44/D50 hybrid that uses the D44 beam length and pivot point (but widened) and a D44 third member but use D50 outer beams to get the bigger parts with the goal being reduced maintenance. I'd build it to run 39's and would feel better about the bigger spindle and knuckle (BJ spread) with such a big tire. I would not get hung up on wheels, for a play car 8 bolt is fine as long as front and rear match. Or maybe do a 6 bolt pattern.

This is what I've been dreaming about when I think about the play toy build. D44 beams & 80-82 3rd member, and then the d50 stuff at the ends for the strength.

8 lug is fine with me and actually is the plan as then I could swap spares (wheels/tires and hubs, brakes, etc.) with the crew cab.

ChaseTruck754 wrote:

baja-chris wrote:If I was building a new prerun go fast play car, I'd do a D44/D50 hybrid that uses the D44 beam length and pivot point (but widened) and a D44 third member but use D50 outer beams to get the bigger parts with the goal being reduced maintenance. I'd build it to run 39's and would feel better about the bigger spindle and knuckle (BJ spread) with such a big tire. I would not get hung up on wheels, for a play car 8 bolt is fine as long as front and rear match. Or maybe do a 6 bolt pattern.

This is what I've been dreaming about when I think about the play toy build. D44 beams & 80-82 3rd member, and then the d50 stuff at the ends for the strength.

8 lug is fine with me and actually is the plan as then I could swap spares (wheels/tires and hubs, brakes, etc.) with the crew cab.

well its good to know I'm on the right track. Lol now to finish my rig and get some dirt miles in!

Thats what im runnin with a 14 bolt out back. So far so good!

interesting info thanks guys. new to the TTB in a performance application/go fast! thinking of doing the dana 54 or 45 hybrid! finish up my current project and TTB will be next. Gathering parts! you know the rest of the story!

Why are most of you guys not utilizing a 3.0 c/0 and bypass?
price?
Space?
design?
It wasn't out when i started my build?
Too Many tuning variabilities?


Ive already heard the list of reasons why most don't such as:
Its just to carry the weight.
Its not necessary
I don't drive fast enough
The wheelbase is too short
Its not a race truck
My wife won't let me

Why are most of you guys not utilizing a 3.0 c/0 and bypass?
price?
Space?
design?
It wasn't out when i started my build?
Too Many tuning variabilities?


Ive already heard the list of reasons why most dont such as:
Its just to carry the weight.
Its not necessary
I don't drive fast enough
The wheelbase is too short
Its not a race truck
My wife won't let me