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Is it possible with a coil spring to actually get a full 16" of travel out of it? Measuring from the top of the coil bucket to the top of the ball joint-- from full bump to the stock bumpstop to full droop its a change of a little over 16". That is completely using a 12"-2.5" shock. The Procomp coils are about 18" long and would need to stretch a solid 7" for it to max out everything. The radius arms are right at 38.5" from beam mounting bolt to the rod end if that matters. I think I am finally done with my beams!

I thought the limitation is the axle joint?
Depends on how much metal you remove from your cross over u-joint. Most guys strap the front to keep that joint from binding.

I'm guessing the clearancing is done at the differential side correct?

VintageIronFab wrote:I'm guessing the clearancing is done at the differential side correct?

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I don't remember
Put the assembled shaft in the vice it will be obvious which side and how much to grind. One side has more angle than the other so check both. Then take the thing apart and grind away. I suppose a small grinder would work with the shaft assembled?
Mine front was modified by Glen to get more travel and he did the work and tweaked the hydraulic bumps. I tweaked the window myself by painting with white paint and kept grinding until the shaft did not touch. Now days my shaft is in the middle of the window because hard hits bent the beams.

I believe it is the passenger side shaft that needs the clearance.

The passenger side center u-joint has to be clearance on one side and the axle window in the passenger side beam has to be ported. The port window should actually be what limits your wheel travel. Too much down travel though and the angle of that center u-joint gets pretty crazy and I sure wouldn't want to be on the gas very hard when the front end gets light.

hello TTB guys. I have a question on which is better, dana 50 or dana 44 TTB. looking to build up a pre runner truck 4wd TTB. i have 2 complete frames f250 ttb 4wd and a f150 ttb4wd. thinking f250 is better/stouter and running 35" tires. looking at 4" wider setup on TTB. Wanting to spend my money once! is the dana 50 much better or minimal. have broken many dana 44 over the yrs straight axles. Will be talking to john autofab next week. Never built up a TTB and any educated info is welcome. usually all info is dana 44 and wondering why? thanks from wyoming.

The geometry between them is different. Yes, the D50 has strengths over the D44, but most parts can be swapped that make a difference, or you can do what some on here have done and put D50 beam ends on D44 beam to get the D44 geometry. From what I recall the D50 is shorter, so less travel/more aggressive camber change. It can work well like in the case of bajaf250s truck, but without lengthening its more limited than a D44, and will not work in the D44 mounts. Comparing the D44 solid to the TTB is sort of a moot point, considering the difference. Yes, the D44 straight axle is weak, but that doesn't really transfer to the beams, they are quite stout. I know very little about the D50, so people like philo or bajaf250 can chime in there, but those are the basics from what I can remember.

when i refer to dana 44 weakness is ring and pinion getting scattered. shock load! scattered many 44 straits and went to dana 60 frt ring and pinions and now i don't break. thanks for info on TTB 44/50. yes have read baja250 and its lengthy and informative.

What are these U joint things you guys speak of?

Must be nice to have that kind of $$$$ for rcv

The Jeep guys (me) use super alloy double heat treat axles with the circle clip joints (& tack welded cups) as an alternative to RCV. Reports are that the small increase in cost for the RCV results in a stronger axle because the weak link has always been the joints.
If you think the RCV cost is high try to get someone to make you some super alloy heat treated TTB versions. So far nobody but RCV has stronger axles for the TTB. If I am wrong post up the alternatives.
The boots for the RCV are larger in diameter so be sure you do research to make sure the thing will fit without fab mods. Could be a big issue for some guys? This is the reason I do not have RCVs on the Jeep for my D44 is it required an new knuckle for clearance due to my big brake mod. Gotta have good brakes and good axles. Times are changing in the high production Jeep world and much new stuff is now available better than what I have.
PW
Will we ever see the long WB Jeeps as a competitor to the desert Bronco. Who knows? So far the cost is to high.
PW

dana 50 or dana 44TTB. I have the money for rcv axles and pretty much figured this into my project! Dana 50 seems to be the way to go but needing info on why everyone does 44? thanks from wyo!

the 44 is what came in the trucks plus the beams are longer and have less camber change than the 50. With 50 beams you are married to the 8 lug unless you get creative or swap out your rear end. One guy on this site bought David Kennedy's old truck that had an 8 lug conversion. Not a bad way to go.

wyoming4x4 wrote:dana 50 or dana 44TTB. I have the money for rcv axles and pretty much figured this into my project! Dana 50 seems to be the way to go but needing info on why everyone does 44? thanks from wyo!

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Choose either.
* The stuff inside the diff is supposed to be interchangeable D44=D50. No advantage either way.
* The crossover joint is stronger on the 50, but break just as easy as the 44. The TTB has that weak link in its design.
Does the RCV work that joint weakness issue?
* Yuk - 8 lugs - advantage is the 5 lug 44.
* The RCV has stronger outer joints, but not many of us break those.

Sorry no good answer.
PW

choices on gear ratios and differentials with the dana 50 is very limited. the cross over joint gets weak from clearancing it for more angle. the d50 seems to be more weakened by this than the d44 because you end up grinding into the top of the spines on the slip more than you do to clearance a d44 yoke. prior to clearancing, the d50 crossover is stronger with 1350 u-joints. the rcv should be much stronger but is very expensive. pluses for the d50 include bigger spindle, wider ball joint spread, bigger stock brakes, larger axles.

Still waiting for someone to stuff a newer 8.8 IRS diff in a TTB. Bigger axles, bigger gear, less weight.......

Damn no edit, IFS diff........

the dana 50 has larger hubs, axles, ring gear, and larger 1350 ujoints. Downside to dana 50 is the geometry is not a good as a dana 44 ttb. there have been a few people that have grafted the dana 50 knuckles to a dana 44 making it a dana "54" or "45" hybrid. my beams are this way. gives you the advantages of both worlds. i will tell you it is not the easiest build though. really depends on what your plans are with the truck. the dana 44 hubs are proven very strong, but if your plans are high HP and a lot of skinny pedal you may want something bigger.

My $.02....

Honestly how many people are breaking d44 stuff? For the go fast stuff 4x4 is mostly an insurance. I dont see any reason to use D50 unless it was already on the truck.
Just my opinion.