Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

[Rmc]

You only need to clock if you go for max travel possible before the u joint can no longer function. I'm pulling 16.5 real numbers with no clocking. Clearancing yes but no clocking. Granted mine are 4.5 extended beams but you should still be able to get between 10-14 easy without clocking. Just figure out what your goal is, jumping it?

[Rmc]

10-14 on c&t no extension to clarify sry about that. Good shocks are the best place to start. The drop brackets only move the inevitable down. Camber changes are camber changes reguardless at what point on an arc you measure and at what hieght to the ground or the frame the center of that arc is measured. The camber changes will be identical between both in the same range of motion because the length from the pivot center to the tire remains the same with both. They both can be used to achieve lift with camber correction to the new desired ride height. Agian back to your goals? lift for larger tires? More travel?

[cs_drums]

Sooo , some more questions regarding suspension. Has anyone on here done a drop bracket setup instead of cut and turned?? I know Geoff @ Giant has his Bronco set up that way with the extra heavier bracing. And was wondering why I haven't seen more of it this way, It makes perfect sense to me. I see pro and cons of both ways ..... drop bracket would have more flex at the frame and potentially causing frame cracking, but if braced properly shouldn't be a prob.? .....Other things I see would be center ride height, but It doesn't look like that would be a whole lot of difference , maybe 2" or so?? ( was wondering if anyone had taken before and after measurements with the same size tire?)

Pros would be less binding of axels relieving the u joints a bit , maybe more down travel with less camber affects?........ Im still planning on going wider and definite bracing where needed.

with cut/turned and having it clocked seems like a lot of extra work with almost the same function........ Not trying to bash anyone here (Fabricators) just trying to figure out what and why? Some feed back would be great.. Thanks

I like Geoffs set up. I know alot of people dont like the idea of drop brackets. The only major draw backs is the leverage as you measured and Geoffs kit has mitigated this. With the drop bracket kit you will get more travel, minimal but some. Also as mentioned your will have better u-joint angles. Im a huge fan of Geoff's minimalist ideas. People will say what they want but his stuff just works well.

[cs_drums]

With the drop bracket kit you will get more travel, minimal but some.

More than C&T, sorry that seemed like I was refering to stock and that is obvious.

[ChaseTruck754]

I do agree with the fact that properly designed drop brackets can hold up to what many people do with these rigs. Spend the time someone does in a cut & turn & put that into a well designed "drop bracket" & you could have one heck of a strong setup. But to play devil's advocate to my own point... I'll bring up the point of a longer "lever arm" of extended beams adding to the stress that the drop brackets will see. How much added stress & will it break the things - I'm not sure. I'm not smart enough to do the match to run the stress calcs on that.

As has been said - the stuff Geoff makes just seems to "work" (and work well) in real world scenarios.

[crisis88]

Thought I would throw my .02 cents in here. I'm not an expert. I'm barely a fabricator. But I do have drop brackets. And I do run 4 over beams and a 14" coilover. I regularly inspect the area around the brackets. And I haven't had any issues. I do use the crap out of my bronco. My personal thread is a testament to that.
I am not incredibly rough on it. But by no means do I take it easy.

Just throwing that out there.
Jose

[cs_drums]

I wouldn't run extended beams on a drop bracket thats just me. If you are gonna take the time to rework the whole end of the beam then c&t. The cool thing baout a drop bracket set up is you dont have to mess with the beam. Just shock mounts and a little reinforcing.

[Cactus Cooler]

Does anyone have any pics of their drop brackets? And/or Pics of the difference in height ( center section ) compare to dropped vs C&T ?


Sorry I'm not trying to over think things , just trying to get a better perspective on how and what will work for my project. I guess Im always the guy that seems to do things a little bit different than everyone else. When everyone was building MUSTANGS I was the guy that wanted the FALCON or when everyone wanted the shot bed prerunners, I wanted a long bed. Just me I guess. Hell Im one of the biggest Furd fans out there, but I almost pulled the trigger at buying a BLAZER instead of my Bronco. And your .02 cent is always welcome. Ha! Thank you.

[Rmc]

Just an FYI, you won't be able to have travel numbers even close with a blazer or independant front suspension unless you spend a fortune. Even if you did spend the money it would not be nearly as strong as beams.

[Rmc]

Does anyone have any pics of their drop brackets? And/or Pics of the difference in height ( center section ) compare to dropped vs C&T ?


Sorry I'm not trying to over think things , just trying to get a better perspective on how and what will work for my project. I guess Im always the guy that seems to do things a little bit different than everyone else. When everyone was building MUSTANGS I was the guy that wanted the FALCON or when everyone wanted the shot bed prerunners, I wanted a long bed. Just me I guess. Hell Im one of the biggest Furd fans out there, but I almost pulled the trigger at buying a BLAZER instead of my Bronco. And your .02 cent is always welcome. Ha! Thank you.

I can help you save some money on doing extended beams ect. I'm just still in the process of getting tooled up, building jigs ect. Let me know your goals and I can help. I can build you a set of 4.5 extended c&t beams with uniball pivots, trussed for 800$ you have to buy axels. I can do beams, radius arms and pivot boxes for 1200$ you buy hiems and axels. The only way you will find them cheaper is if you build them yourself.

[93Broncobuff]

Any pics of geoff's bronk?

[Cactus Cooler]

Good to know, thanks I appreciate it. Thats why I didn't do a Blazer, but if I had it would have been "I beamed" (2wd). or a short bed. Almost pulled the trigger on a Old school class 8 truck some time ago, all the cage work was done and someone started hacking at the front . I assumed they were having the same idea as I was with I beam set up. 3 linked set up, looked pretty decent at one time im sure. I just didn't want to got that route, too much time and money!

[Cactus Cooler]

Any pics of geoff's bronk?

Go on Giant Motorsport Facebook page, they have a lot of pics on there. Its the white one

[crisis88]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1381883264.788273.jpg (95.82 KiB) Viewed 1068 times

Here's mine with drop brackets and 4 over beams.

It has been good to me so far. Most recently the mojave trail. All over ocotillo wells. To pismo multi times.
I seriously have no complaints. If it's an option for you. Don't let anyone talk you out of it. It works and it works cleanly. And reliably.

Jose

[crisis88]

Sorry not the best pic

[Cactus Cooler]

Cool thanks! was wondering if anyone had a pic like Jose's with C&T from the front view they could post? Lrg. pic if possible. Thanks

[Cactus Cooler]

I also notice a lot of guys not running a Bypass just a coil over. Is it some thing that most of you are just planning on adding later budget wise?

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Kinda dark. C/t uniball and trussed.

[philofab]

Bypasses don't do a lot on the front end of our Broncos. They can help but that money does a lot elsewhere.

I'd link a Bronco before I put bypasses on the front.

[VintageIronFab]

is a 36" radius arm about the norm? Reason is I seem to have about a 6 pieces of 1 3/4" x .120 wall but its only about 31" long. Story of my life-- only need a new more inches to really get the job done right LOLOLOLOL!!!!!