Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

[philofab]

is a 36" radius arm about the norm? Reason is I seem to have about a 6 pieces of 1 3/4" x .120 wall but its only about 31" long. Story of my life-- only need a new more inches to really get the job done right LOLOLOLOL!!!!!

Length doesn't matter that much at long as they are longer than stock. I just make them so they match up to a crossmember if possible. 31" will be fine.

[ChaseTruck754]

Same here. I like to make the brackets go to some existing holes in the frame to make them bolt on & off if ever needed, and to do so without drilling new holes (or drilling as few as possible).

[VintageIronFab]

Holy C&T revelation!!! I was thinking that when you widen the beams it is done at the space in-between the radius arm mounting hole and the outer "C" of the beam It thought you all did that to help with turning radius and mounting of the coil springs. Does anyone widen the beam and still run the coil springs??

Also "clocking" the differential-- is that mean cutting the beam between the pivot and the differential and adding a few degrees there - or does it mean to physically drill the holes in the beam?

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Rick (flyinbronco) has extended beams and coils. So does josh (greaslife). Clocking the diff means to wallow the acting diff holes to re align the diff.

[VintageIronFab]

I didnt find Ricks's build but I did see Josh's build and he widened the beam like I had thought in the past and probably the only method possible if you are still running coils (at least the only method that makes the most sense to me anyway.

So better topic-- clocking the diff-- when you say wallowing the holes-- how much are we talking about. If some reads this and has access to a waterjet, good plasma table or a laser-- I would guess the clocking of the diff is probably about a half-hole off-- it would be killer to be able to put a template up to the back of the diff-- bolt on a plate that acts as a drill guild to re-drill the holes. Made out of 16ga still I know I would buy one for say $40 if it meant being able to just clock a diff with no hassles. Just a thought for the computer guys-- take a gasket and make it into steel. I will buy your first one

[hobbyturnedobsession]

The only issue I see with that is a lot of fabricators spend ALOT of time to figure that out. Thus the reflection in cost when buying pie cut beams. It tends to be a bit of a secret among them so they can still stay afloat.

[VintageIronFab]

Im not saying giving the info for free-- Im saying figure out the clocking pattern then take -$1.50 worth of steel and sell it for $40

[VintageIronFab]

Its not different than what Mitler Bros sells as a template that tells you exactly where to measure from on rear axle housings.

[Gilbee01]

I would agree .. The information is out there for those who can make parts for the consumer. No one wants to put in the work, they want instant products ready made. That said if you have the pattern I can do the cad to put into a system.

[baja-chris]

There is more than one way to skin a cat, but you can see pics of how we both widened and did the cut and turn in our build thread. We added the width (1.5") where we put the radius arm. We welded the radius arms to the beams because we think it's stronger.

[VintageIronFab]

When you all plate the arms and the beams do you all find that warping is an issue to be worried about. Just by looking I dont think so. Guessing by looking at some of the pics that roughly 7-12" sections at a time are what is the norm. MIG will be the process that I'll be using. The arms I am building are right at 36" long so I was thinking about plating with 1/8" on the sides and in about 9" increments--let it cool to the touch and weld some more. Thanks!

[baja-chris]

yea, spot weld it in place at both ends and every 6-12" with enough to keep it from breaking loose then just seam weld short sections at a time, if plating both sides, flip it over and work the other side after each section.

[VintageIronFab]

I am still wondering a little how is the best way to gain a few degrees of caster in the arms and do it accurately.

Here is what I found-- I took the stock arms and clamped them to my welding table-- then took my smart level-- measured the table, measured the flat part of the arm where it mounts to the beam and it is virtually parallel to the table-- then measured the stud and it was exactly 1* positive to the table. I guess you get a few more degrees of caster by just cocking the ends of the arm just a little-- I guess Seems like the easiest and most accurate way to get the extra caster is in the RA brackets.

[ChaseTruck754]

Seems like the easiest and most accurate way to get the extra caster is in the RA brackets.

Mounts (where they attache to the beams) and the brackets.

[VintageIronFab]

Is the window porting on the passenger side beam neccessary if you are running coil springs? I am running 2.5" 12" travel shocks if thats a factor. Just guessing the travel numbers in a coil spring front end isn't quite that of a coilover setup.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

You'd be shocked. 16" of travel is definitely there with a coil. Port the window.

[VintageIronFab]

Here is my port job..........I have added quite alot of plating so hopefully everything is still really good an strong.

[VintageIronFab]

I am very new to the FSB and just finished my first C&T front end. One thing that killed a solid afternoon (mainly because the first time I have done this) was getting the front end perfect-- then getting it back on the bench and finding out your ball joint was not properly aligned. So you either say screw it or tear it all back apart-- I tore it all back apart. What I cam up with (which is probably old hat for your veteran C&T'ers) is to just simply get the cut out portion aligned perfectly and then tack that cut out to the knuckle to hold it in place. Being that its in place you can get the alignment and caster right off the bat. Just kind of a complete A-Ha!! moment in the C&T construction

[VintageIronFab]

tacked lower Ball joint ear........

[Wrightracing.net]

When we did my lower c/t we used zero degree bushings and the knuckle to align it. I was fortunate to learn from a pro. Before I extend my housings, I am going to build a jig so if I bend or break mine I can replace them with alot less effort.