Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Frontrunner54
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by Frontrunner54 »

You running those knuckles upside down on purpose? Or is that just for mockup?
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FatCity
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by FatCity »

Frontrunner54 wrote:You running those knuckles upside down on purpose? Or is that just for mockup?
I don't think they are. Are they?
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Silverslk
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by Silverslk »

Hey Eric, another option beside the usual lower push out is pie cut the beam and adjust. This keeps the ball joints in a better relationship (so I'm told) but then you have to clock the third for this style. Mark Kiefer does his this way at Southwest. There should be some threads on it somwhere. Hpw about a build thread in non-broncos? Dan started one and everyone loved it then he changed his mind on the TTB XJ thing. I know we will see this one done!!!
SteveG wrote:The point? It's amazing these front ends go down the road straight in any form! The TTB is brute. A broad sword and not a scalpel. That's why I love it!
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Silverslk
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by Silverslk »

FatCity wrote:
Frontrunner54 wrote:You running those knuckles upside down on purpose? Or is that just for mockup?
I don't think they are. Are they?
EDIT**
I just went and looked at mine. They look fine.
SteveG wrote:The point? It's amazing these front ends go down the road straight in any form! The TTB is brute. A broad sword and not a scalpel. That's why I love it!
FatCity
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by FatCity »

Silverslk wrote:Hey Eric, another option beside the usual lower push out is pie cut the beam and adjust. This keeps the ball joints in a better relationship (so I'm told) but then you have to clock the third for this style. Mark Kiefer does his this way at Southwest. There should be some threads on it somwhere. !!!
Thanks Andy,
We talked about that. I dont quite understand why it needs to be clocked just yet, but I'll dig around and find the thread.

I'll start a build thread next week when I get a few minutes to transfer the posts to GFB.
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Silverslk
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by Silverslk »

Here you go!! GFB kicks ass for info most wont put up

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... =15&t=2940
SteveG wrote:The point? It's amazing these front ends go down the road straight in any form! The TTB is brute. A broad sword and not a scalpel. That's why I love it!
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Deleted Account
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by Deleted Account »

FatCity wrote:
Silverslk wrote:Hey Eric, another option beside the usual lower push out is pie cut the beam and adjust. This keeps the ball joints in a better relationship (so I'm told) but then you have to clock the third for this style. Mark Kiefer does his this way at Southwest. There should be some threads on it somwhere. !!!
Thanks Andy,
We talked about that. I dont quite understand why it needs to be clocked just yet, but I'll dig around and find the thread.

I'll start a build thread next week when I get a few minutes to transfer the posts to GFB.
Cause the drivers side axle dosent fit into the diff if you dont.....
FatCity Ryan
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by FatCity Ryan »

Which C&T procedure is better, more reliable, prefered?
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SteveG
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by SteveG »

FatCity Ryan wrote:Which C&T procedure is better, more reliable, prefered?
Both have proven to be very successful and reliable.
Sho nuff,
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by FatCity Ryan »

What is the ideal caster for a TTB set-up? 6-8 as ussual or does the TTB work different through it's travel for any reasons?
Seabass
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by Seabass »

TTB front ends caster changes very dramaticly through it's travel. This is the main reason longer radius arms are used. The further away the pivot point the less thje caster changes through the wheels travel. If you have allot of droop you may want to run more caster to keep your front end from turning into a shopping cart caster at full droop. Additional caster also makes for a nicer ride on the highway in my opinion. One of the side affects of additional caster is that it helps the wheels return to center so your less likely to follow rutts.

My .02 cents. Different fab shops build their arms with diferent amounts of caster so I know there is more than one opinion out there.
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ChaseTruck754
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by ChaseTruck754 »

I'm in the "more is better" (to a certain degree of course) camp for the caster on these for many of the reasons listed above. I'd go to 10* on a truck that hits the street or even more if it will be a dirty only truck.
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cs_drums
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by cs_drums »

ChaseTruck754 wrote:I'm in the "more is better" (to a certain degree of course) camp for the caster on these for many of the reasons listed above. I'd go to 10* on a truck that hits the street or even more if it will be a dirty only truck.
Geoff at giant built alot in to mine. I think he said 18*. I havent driven it yet but he was building my beams for his truck origionally and he said it should handle awesome. I hope it does.
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ChaseTruck754
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by ChaseTruck754 »

I think I remember Geoff saying he likes that at 15* plus for dirt trucks - so that makes sense.
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kylesgorter
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by kylesgorter »

My school of thought on faster is to just never let it go "negative" what that means is based on which side of the truck you are on your faster angle should be zero or more in favor of the front of the truck. I've always set close to zero at full bump and then limit the suspension where the bumps are happy. As a result of that, the actual caster at ride.and droop is a function of radius arm and beam length. I like long radius arms and on most of the setups I've built it ends up being between 6 and 10 degrees at ride and maybe 15 at full droop. I feel this gives a good neutral feel while having a progressive faster curve for the tracking and dig advantages. Too much faster can be bad.

I also want to note that there is 6.5 degrees of caster designed into the d44 beam end from the factory so there really doesn't need to be too much caster added but all depends on the specific setup ecstasy truck is different
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BajaDale
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by BajaDale »

kylesgorter wrote:My school of thought on faster is to just never let it go "negative" what that means is based on which side of the truck you are on your faster angle should be zero or more in favor of the front of the truck. I've always set close to zero at full bump and then limit the suspension where the bumps are happy. As a result of that, the actual caster at ride.and droop is a function of radius arm and beam length. I like long radius arms and on most of the setups I've built it ends up being between 6 and 10 degrees at ride and maybe 15 at full droop. I feel this gives a good neutral feel while having a progressive faster curve for the tracking and dig advantages. Too much faster can be bad.

I also want to note that there is 6.5 degrees of caster designed into the d44 beam end from the factory so there really doesn't need to be too much caster added but all depends on the specific setup ecstasy truck is different

Wouldn't you mean 0* at full droop and 15* at full bump?
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by kylesgorter »

Yes that's what I meant sorry
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Andy Jones
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by Andy Jones »

I'm looking for this set up.. Who should I start too contact??
13" rotors with custom rotor adapters...
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economig
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by economig »

I hate you right now (Said guy who just bought brand new small wheels and was nervous about wanting to change them right away) :)
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Re: Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

Post by D1cker1 »

Andy Jones wrote:I'm looking for this set up.. Who should I start too contact??
13" rotors with custom rotor adapters...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356365589.654816.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356365602.503459.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356365620.308840.jpg
That looks so awesome..
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