Start Your Go-Fast Build-Front Suspension

[baja-chris]

I had the a friend at a local machine shop make my rotor hats and ordered rotors from Coleman.
I'm not aware of any bolt on pre-made rotor hats for a d44 ttb.

[Andy Jones]

I had the a friend at a local machine shop make my rotor hats and ordered rotors from Coleman.
I'm not aware of any bolt on pre-made rotor hats for a d44 ttb.

Would they mind making another set?? If so, please let me know!.

[baja-chris]

It was a done as a favor and without drawings so it would take some effort to figure out dimensions all over again. I would not ask them to do it again. It was also a lot of work which is probably why you don't see them for sale, money looser!

[drewbee88]

so i have been toying around with doing a 4 link or add a heim to the radius arms to allow for adjusting caster on the bronco, Ive heard that the rough rider ttbs used to be set up this way, Go ahead and shoot it down, Im no ttb expert, from what i have read caster is the huge problem with the ttb at full droop, so witha a 4 link style setup, wouldnt that help with the caster change at droop?

[ChaseTruck754]

why would we should it down? 4 link style radius arms are cool

[drewbee88]

Maybe i have spent to much time over at DR, probably gonna go this route with my radius arms, unless something changes at some point, i think being able to get caster correct at full droop and ride height, like i said still new to ttb setups, and i tend to think a lil different when i approach some things.

[PaulW]

Maybe i have spent to much time over at DR, probably gonna go this route with my radius arms, unless something changes at some point, i think being able to get caster correct at full droop and ride height, like i said still new to ttb setups, and i tend to think a lil different when i approach some things.

====
Why bother - I bet nobody cares about droop Caster and crazy Camber is what we all live with. IMO spend some time on the steering instead. No way to get the TTB to behave like A arms. Just go with the flow for your design.
Arms - make them strong and plate them and that will be the least of your issues. Most of us like J arms with no bolts. Just a big heavy weldment with fat Heims on the aft end.
Comments anyone??
Paul
PS, make your beams stiff in torsion so when you hit that big rock is wont twist the drivers side.
Like I said lots of things to work on that are more important than Caster and Camber.
Good luck
PW

[hobbyturnedobsession]

I know that some guys build caster into the radius arms to begin with.

[DirtFiend602]

Mine is at 10 degrees caster at ride height.

[Rmc]

10 degrees here too.

[Jbfab]

What if any are you guys using to keep the shock from twisting in the mounts? My top is free and clear if it twists but the bottom can twist and hit the billet lower and chew it up. Should i just use tie rod dust boots?

[Kel Fab Creations]

If your bearings are tight they shouldn't rock back and forth, should just allow it to move as needed. The bearings on my rear shocks are pretty sloppy and I was too lazy/cheap to put new bearings in so I punched out a bunch of rubber washers and stacked them up to keep it from rocking. Or you can buy these http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubbe ... rs/=mgbaa8
Or you can buy the real rubber spacers from King.

[Rmc]

If I'm understanding correctly the spacers seem short, I always run the 1.5" wide bolt spacers/reducers to keep this from happening, u can cut a few pieces of 3/4x.120 wall Dom to run as thicker washers also.

[RBdarby22]

I tried to find this info but came up short.
I'm starting to buy parts for my front end every time I get a few extra dollars and I'm looking at brake lines but don't know how long they should be...
Going stock width with coil overs and might go wider later. Will the ones for a standard for inch lift work or should they be longer for the extended travel??

[Andy Jones]

I tried to find this info but came up short.
I'm starting to buy parts for my front end every time I get a few extra dollars and I'm looking at brake lines but don't know how long they should be...
Going stock width with coil overs and might go wider later. Will the ones for a standard for inch lift work or should they be longer for the extended travel??

Randy, the brakes lines I have in my garage will work with a C&T, and a four inch over set up.

[Seabass]

Doing my homework on plating and opening the axle window. At what point are you guys having to open the axle window up? I have a set of burg cut and turns with uniballs that'll be sitting on coil overs. I don't have the garage space to do this more than once so I wanna get the beams 100% dialed before tear down. Will I have clearance issues?

[Rmc]

The window below the center u joint on the passenger beam( nearest the u joint). U will also need to clearance the center u joint "valleys" between the joint ears on both sides. U should only need to clearance the bottom edge of the window, u will see the needed clearance when full tuck on one side full droop in the other.

[Seabass]

Thanks RMC. Is this something I'm going to have to mock up before busting out the grinder or is there a rule of thumb when opening the window in the beam?

[Kel Fab Creations]

Thanks RMC. Is this something I'm going to have to mock up before busting out the grinder or is there a rule of thumb when opening the window in the beam?

If you clearance the center u joint enough so that when you spin it, it will stay at the same angle you'll be good. Does that make sense? Match the angle of the side that doesn't need clearancing.

[Kel Fab Creations]

Woops, you were asking about the beam... I would mock it up. That's just me though...