8.8 opinions

[tcm glx]

Tony if you don't mind posting specifics on your 9" and what it cost I'm sure we would all appreciate it. If you don't mind.

I know when I started estimating parts for a 9". I was well over 2000. With gears, rebuild, etc.

I guess my biggest savings doing the 8.8 hybrid. Will be my gears I already have and the VSS I don't have to buy.

No worries at all, I'd love togo through and add the pain all up again.. hahahaha


Here goes:
Currie Heavy Duty Housing: $400
VSS: $250 (Used Leduc Unit)
Driveshaft rebuild and lengthening: $250
Tabs and misc components for build: $240
Powdercoat: $100
Wilwoods: $775
Installation: $500 (this includes setting all tabs, including 2 link, shocks, brakes lines, bump pads, and leaf pads)
Total: $2400 plus..........

The one thing I did not list is the third member and axles, I got a smokin deal on a complete 3rd memeber setup, 35 spline, locked, 4.56 etc etc etc from Yukon... but you can fill in the blanks on what this looks like for you.

[tcm glx]

not sure on the whole tab thing. Will play devil's advocate and say you would be paying someone to do the same on an 8.8 so it's a negligible cost.

I mean if you have the 8.8 in your truck already tabbed then that's one deal, but if someone is going into it at the beginning of the build many costs would be similar or the same = tabs, truss, disks, gears. That's whether they're paying someone to do it or doing it themselves.

My point is a 9" out of an earlier FSB will bolt right in. Only cost there is dealing with the VSS, which is cheaper than putting 9" ends on I'd think.

These were my thoughs exaclty. When you build a rearend its all the same stuff-

Gears
traction aid

maybe better-
brakes
axles
studs

To do the hybrid you spend and additional on putting new ends on and you have to buy new axles. With the 9" you only have to install VSS. I cant imagine the cost of ends and axles is less than a VSS kit.

I think the best advice is to not spend a dime on an 8.8 just get a stocker 9" and go from there.

My advice would be to buy your used housing which is already setup!! Hahahaha

[tcm glx]

The real issue underlying is if you already dropped coin on gears in your 8.8 and whether or not you want to build from a JY axle........... that can cause a swing on things.

[cs_drums]

Tony if you don't mind posting specifics on your 9" and what it cost I'm sure we would all appreciate it. If you don't mind.

I know when I started estimating parts for a 9". I was well over 2000. With gears, rebuild, etc.

I guess my biggest savings doing the 8.8 hybrid. Will be my gears I already have and the VSS I don't have to buy.

Axles are almost $400 and ends are aonther $100 plus labor. Why not sell the geared 8.8 and get a JY 9" regear, and put it in your truck?

You cant compare a regeared 8.8 with housing ends, to a built trussed 9".

[cs_drums]

not sure on the whole tab thing. Will play devil's advocate and say you would be paying someone to do the same on an 8.8 so it's a negligible cost.

I mean if you have the 8.8 in your truck already tabbed then that's one deal, but if someone is going into it at the beginning of the build many costs would be similar or the same = tabs, truss, disks, gears. That's whether they're paying someone to do it or doing it themselves.

My point is a 9" out of an earlier FSB will bolt right in. Only cost there is dealing with the VSS, which is cheaper than putting 9" ends on I'd think.

These were my thoughs exaclty. When you build a rearend its all the same stuff-

Gears
traction aid

maybe better-
brakes
axles
studs

To do the hybrid you spend and additional on putting new ends on and you have to buy new axles. With the 9" you only have to install VSS. I cant imagine the cost of ends and axles is less than a VSS kit.

I think the best advice is to not spend a dime on an 8.8 just get a stocker 9" and go from there.

My advice would be to buy your used housing which is already setup!! Hahahaha

Right! haha

[ChaseTruck754]

Agreed.

Sure a fully fabricated housing or currie 9" housing with custom fill, brakes, powdercoat, etc. will cost a ton. They can approach $7k or more if you start adding 35 spline axles and full floater hubs too. But that's a completely different animal so why would we compare it to an 8.8? I didn't think this thread was about going that far.

Yes adding just the 9" ends to an 8.8 that already has gears, a locker, a truss, etc. may be cheaper, as you've already spent $ on it.

BUT... if you compare that $ to the cost of doing a junkyard/used bronco/F-150 9" in the same basic way you'd be doing the 8.8 cost should be similar - so why not just go 9".


Like Tony said - too many variables to have a set answer. I'd say it's definitely a case by case basis in which the owner/builder looks at what they have, what they want to do with it & what they're willing to spend. Then double that last part & got at it

[ChaseTruck754]

Oops - my "agreed" goes to Tony's post 2 posts up.

[cs_drums]

Budget 9"

Complete JY/ craigslist unit - $250
VSS - $200
Gear overhaul kit- $170
Gears - $160
Spool - $175
= $950

Given I didnt go over brake. Rebuilding the stock drums is cheap. As Steve mentioned the pre-86 bronco 9" are drop in.

Also, some one correct me if im wrong, arent the 8.8 .188wall tueb vss the bronco 9" .250 wall? Or is that urban legend. haha

[mesquito_creek]

You go to war with the axle that you have, not the axle that you wish you had! Either way 8.8 or 9, if you are wide up front, I have found that widening the rear and correcting the tracking geometry is one of the most noticeable handling improvements I have made...

[tcm glx]

Reading back through this, some great comments and experience across the board. This is a great general rear axle thread...... GOOOOOD info!!

[hobbyturnedobsession]

The drum brakes are the same between 8.8 and some 9" rear ends.

[mesquito_creek]

The drum brakes are the same between 8.8 and some 9" rear ends.

Exactly, my stock 8.8 drums bolted right onto the "Late Model Lrg Brg or Torino"

F = 3-9/16" G = 2" H = 3.150 I = 3/8"

[cs_drums]

I've been looking into running my 8.8 in the Bronco for the long run.. i heard Currie will extend the axle housing and do a disc conversion for around 1500.00... What are your guys opinions on using the 8.8 over a 9" for a prerunner?

To bring this full circle, origional post. I just personaly think that if anyone with a 8.8 asks, should I invest any money into it? The answer should be, No go get a 9". If they already have invested into the 8.8 in gears and a locker there may be more to wieght in.

[hobbyturnedobsession]

To quote a friend on the board "investing in an 8.8 for hard use is polishing a turd". Itll look good and do ok for a while but i had more issues than just the axle tubes. Pinion nut loved to back out and i had issues with seals alot.

[Baja]

You go to war with the axle that you have, not the axle that you wish you had! Either way 8.8 or 9, if you are wide up front, I have found that widening the rear and correcting the tracking geometry is one of the most noticeable handling improvements I have made...

What is the preferred width for the rear (WMS to WMS) for these things when you are running 4.5" over beams?

[yikes]

I'm going to throw this out there. I have no experience with baller beams and TT wide tracks, but I would think it wise to keep the rear a tad narrow to help keep the centersection from dragging the tops in the nasty rutted out silt beds. By narrow I'm thinking 70-72".

[mesquito_creek]

You go to war with the axle that you have, not the axle that you wish you had! Either way 8.8 or 9, if you are wide up front, I have found that widening the rear and correcting the tracking geometry is one of the most noticeable handling improvements I have made...

What is the preferred width for the rear (WMS to WMS) for these things when you are running 4.5" over beams?

I am not sure what "preferred" width is... but there are some considerations/limitations with either 8.8 or 9 inch set ups.
First: the only "off the shelf" 31 spline 9 inch axles that I was able to source was a maximum length of 36 inches. Therefore if you want to retain the factory 3 inch offset on the oem rear end, you have to go 36 on the driver and 33 on the passenger. That will give you a 71.25 wms/wms rear end. On my truck I built 3.5 inch over cut/turned TTB front beams. That put my rear width pretty much dead on, maybe ~1/4 inch narrower than the front. I would probably go 36/35 on a 4.5 over beam setup

I have a second f150 2wd truck with 6.5 over front beams and on that truck I built a 8.8/9 hybrid. I threw out the factory offset and built a centered section housing with 36 inch 9 inch axles on both sides in order to match the best I could. It is slightly narrow in the rear, just under an inch per side. The good thing is that the centered diff doesn't seem to have any problems in that configuration in terms of vibrations on the hwy etc. But it doesn't have the off road miles on it yet in terms of durability. Probably less that 1000 miles so far...

[cs_drums]

I had mine built at 72 wms-wms(+ 3.5" per side). I love it but I never ran the stock width rear for comparison. So far very hapy I was worried about the top heavy bronco feeling top heavy but I toss into the corners pretty good annd its stable. One minor snow ball to consider is that only a couple options for rear glass when you go that wide. I think you could maybe get away with 69wms-wms with the common 3" bedside. I do loove the th real wide look after I recovered from the big snowball.

[cs_drums]

Here is what it looked like with McNeil 3" bedsides and the 72" WMD rear, 35s on outlaw 2s.

[cs_drums]

One thing at snowball saved me was with the wider rear end I didn't have to rework the fender well for clearance at full bump. Every now and then it rubs a little on off camber stuff but nothing that's an issue.