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I have almost everything I think I need for my rear suspension on my 96 bronco . J40 spring , threat shackles and lower rear hanger , under bed shock mount , gen 2 raptor 3.0 bypass shocks . My question is about the front leaf spring hanger as I know the j40 is a 5.5 lift spring could I raise the front hanger 1” would it work, would it help pinion angle . Also is there any benefit to a different front spring hanger keep in mind it needs to accept the 3” wide j40 . I’ve found the f250 hanger is a 6 bolt 3” wide hanger has this been done ?

I wouldn’t mess with the front hanger. You can either take the springs to deaver and ask them to re arch them to take some of the lift out or you can take out the wedge block, cut off the spring perches, and weld new spring perched on with the correct pinion angle to eliminate the wedge blocks. For me, last resort would be to put new front hangers on and they would probably have to be custom made.

To lower the rear of my bronco I had my fab guy remove the wedge and weld in new low profile Roctactics.com spring perches. They seemed to do the job! But Travis is correct about going to Deaver and re-arching them, maybe your best bet.

Chris

We use the 6 bolt F250 hangers on the race Bronco. Haven't broken one since. The main thing is they work with the Deaver military wrap without any modifications. Two of the holes match up, the other two you have to fill and then re-drill for the other 4. We use a modified bushing to work with the 2-1/2" springs and the bigger spring bolt. We use the F250 sleeve on the spring bolt.

Sometimes the easiest path is the best - the J40 is a great spring but it’s 1” too damn tall! Do not use the wedge or the factory perch- 1.) get perches that sit the absolute lowest on the tube as possible. 2.) use a longer shackle that fits. 3.) have those de-arched 1”. 4.) take a carbide die grinder and go round and round until a 1/2” socket head bolt -which are gr.8 not the shit mild steel- will slide thru the springs. 5.) use the Wildhorses 5/8” unbolt kit with the thick u bolt plates. You do all that - torqued down dickskin tight and you’ll forget about any angle or driveline issues. Monkey around with shims and the factory perches it costs more money and in the end more bs. It’s really a 4 hr job if you’ve got the tools.

Thanks guys looks like I’ll cut off the stock perches get some low pro perches and see where am at height wise