Fuel lines and vacuum diagrams

bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Tue Jan 01, 2019 6:31 pm

I have some cut fuel lines I’m in need of replacing. They are cut right where the soft line becomes the hard line on the frame above the driver side radius arm.
Where can I buy these? Need both feed and return and want to trust them. Can I splice in some fuel hose? Is it too high of pressure for that?

Also would like to find diagrams or a good help with vacuum lines as they are all very brittle and breaking during my engine swap

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PaulW · Post by **PaulW** » Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:54 am

Get repair fittings at NAPA. I was helping a local repair shop and the guy showed me the different fitting he had used - NAPA part. Both worked fine. It works on both stock Motorcraft fuel filters and many other brands. For sure way better that the contraption that is OEM which is not friendly to non - Ford brands.

Sure enough you stick the repair fitting in the soft hose and use an efi hose clamp and you will be good to go. What a pleasure to use the new fittings when changing the fuel filter. No tool required to make/break the repair fittings. The repair fittings also work at any Ford metal to hose connection.

Diagrams, Of course you will find them in the factory manual. I do not see how any Bronco owner can live without teh manual. Search and buy, year specific. I recommend the CD version and for sure it is a pain to use, but all the data is there. CD 's are way cheaper than the printed manual. Do not use the various substitutes for the factory manual. CD's and printed manuals are specific by year, so be careful what you buy. If you cannot find what you want PM me and I will burn you the 96 CDs. Trouble is the CDs are lost. Maybe they went with the Bronco, however I bet I have copies somewhere in Colorado. I will help next spring when I get to that location. Ask Steve if he has my CDs as he now has the Bronco and all the documentation. You need both the CD's one for mechanical and one for electronic and emission stuff. My CD's were for the 96 and will be a major issue if you do not have a 96. Lots of major differences because Ford was transitioning from old school to new starting in 96. Live and learn - Sigh.

bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:41 am

I’m am going to search and find the manual for my 95 for sure... see what I can hunt down.

On the fuel line repair was the kit just the push lock with barbed end?

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PaulW · Post by **PaulW** » Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:01 am

Napa catalog is hopeless - two many pages. Go the the counter guy and with no success go to another store and try again. Some counter guys are smarter than others.
Here is a product like I have used Don't know if it will fit your rig, but the NAPA counter guy will and take it back if it is the wrong one.
Similar like below
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-082-F ... B000E323JO

AussieRod · Post by **AussieRod** » Thu Jan 03, 2019 11:55 am

PaulW wrote:Napa catalog is hopeless - two many pages. Go the the counter guy and with no success go to another store and try again. Some counter guys are smarter than others.
Here is a product like I have used Don't know if it will fit your rig, but the NAPA counter guy will and take it back if it is the wrong one.
Similar like below
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-082-F ... B000E323JO

Them's the ones. I used simmilat to these to replace the fuel lines on my F truck, when preparing for EFI (although I bought these locally). They come in 3/8" and 5/16" sizes and are FAR superior to the Ford connectors (better sealing and no tools required for removal or retention).

bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Fri Jan 04, 2019 8:43 am

AussieRod wrote:
PaulW wrote:Napa catalog is hopeless - two many pages. Go the the counter guy and with no success go to another store and try again. Some counter guys are smarter than others.
Here is a product like I have used Don't know if it will fit your rig, but the NAPA counter guy will and take it back if it is the wrong one.
Similar like below
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-082-F ... B000E323JO
Them's the ones. I used simmilat to these to replace the fuel lines on my F truck, when preparing for EFI (although I bought these locally). They come in 3/8" and 5/16" sizes and are FAR superior to the Ford connectors (better sealing and no tools required for removal or retention).

So I am lost on how they seal, do i have the modify the stock side of the truck at all? I saw that bronco graveyard had something similar

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Fri Jan 04, 2019 8:58 am

The "barb" on the stock side of the line clips into the plastic on hese new ones vs. being surrounded by the spring on the stock version. You don't have to change the other side as far as I have seen.

PaulW · Post by **PaulW** » Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:32 am

Both design have an o-ring for sealing.

bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Sat Jan 05, 2019 5:15 pm

Even at the fuel rail? I might just buy the kit from bronco graveyard. It looks like they use the metal spring connector that was stock with the barbed fitting and the push lock plastic on the other side

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bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Sat Jan 05, 2019 5:28 pm

bpburnard05 wrote:Even at the fuel rail? I might just buy the kit from bronco graveyard. It looks like they use the metal spring connector that was stock with the barbed fitting and the push lock plastic on the other side

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Stan the Man · Post by **Stan the Man** » Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:12 am

bpburnard05 wrote:
bpburnard05 wrote:Even at the fuel rail? I might just buy the kit from bronco graveyard. It looks like they use the metal spring connector that was stock with the barbed fitting and the push lock plastic on the other side

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/quote]

I've been using those lines for about a year. Easy to install and now no-tools needed for removal at the fuel filter and top of the tank. Great stuff for maintenance/trail repairs.

bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:21 pm

Stan the Man wrote:
bpburnard05 wrote:
bpburnard05 wrote:Even at the fuel rail? I might just buy the kit from bronco graveyard. It looks like they use the metal spring connector that was stock with the barbed fitting and the push lock plastic on the other side

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/quote]

I've been using those lines for about a year. Easy to install and now no-tools needed for removal at the fuel filter and top of the tank. Great stuff for maintenance/trail repairs.

Awesome that is great to hear. I think i will end up going with these for simplicity’s sake.

For now i have two broken bolts in the intake manifold I’m dealing with that have been hard to get out. So that is fun

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bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Sat Jul 20, 2019 11:54 pm

So im back on this again and trying to get everything ready for my bronco for eventually getting the engine in there. Do I need to purchase special fuel line for my fuel injected Bronco or does any 5/16 and 3/8? fuel line work? I was going to buy the lines from bronco graveyard but thinking i could make them cheaper?

PaulW · Post by **PaulW** » Sun Jul 21, 2019 6:50 am

What I know
It will always be less expensive to make your own fuel lines. Broncos have used nylon for a very long time. The nylon is the liner of what looks like hose with a fabric cover. Times have changed regarding fuel lines chemistry. If you can find EFI rubber lines SAE R9 then make your own. Check the auto stores see what is available now days. Probably you will find a new designation for the low emission rubber lines. What you will find in CA will be unique compared to everywhere else = mainly cost and chemistry.
Here is an article to get you up to speed
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2014/12/0 ... d-not-use/
IMO, stay away from the low emission hose due to high cost, however maybe you could justify using with a combo of metal line and short high price hose at the ends of the metal line.
5/16 vs 3/8”. Depends on engine size and horsepower. Use your judgement. Broncos are all 5/16. So when you go to 3/8 you must deal with connections to filter, tank, and regulator. Which means a significant increase in cost to make the adaptation.
Bottom line - is try to keep what you have.
BTW, my search for my EB efi fuel lines was a long and a bad experience before I finally found a bit of 5/16 R9. For sure times have changed since I did that.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Mon Jul 22, 2019 4:44 pm

If you have a broken intake bolt - if it’s in the iron block I’d get some aluminum washers for insulation and a steel nut and a welder before I ever thought about drilling and tapping anything.

bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:42 am

VintageIronFab wrote:If you have a broken intake bolt - if it’s in the iron block I’d get some aluminum washers for insulation and a steel nut and a welder before I ever thought about drilling and tapping anything.

Both were in the heads so I just ended up having them reworked and had the machine shop fix them after I booger’d it up a bit

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Mon Jul 29, 2019 1:54 pm

On the stud stuck in the head deal - watch this for future reference. The drilled socket bolts this guy uses are something I plan to make & add to my arsenal!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

bpburnard05 · Post by **bpburnard05** » Wed Jul 31, 2019 8:58 am

ChaseTruck754 wrote:On the stud stuck in the head deal - watch this for future reference. The drilled socket bolts this guy uses are something I plan to make & add to my arsenal!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

That was some good info! The right tools and patience. Neither of which I possess. Definitely need the socket head bolts

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