GoFastBroncos.com

Has anyone had this problem before?
I’ve replaced my fuel sending unit and fuel filter recently. When I first turned the Bronco over, everything was fine. Waited about a week to turn it over again. And this happens.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will the gauge drop (park) when key is turned off ?

tcinu2 wrote:Will the gauge drop (park) when key is turned off ?

No


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine did that until i bought a ford pump and sender assembly. Very irritating and intermittent. All connections confirmed tight twice before tossing the 20 year old assembly out. I’ve got a ford pump with 5k on it if you’re dropping the tank and want a good pump!

shockseals.com wrote:Mine did that until i bought a ford pump and sender assembly. Very irritating and intermittent. All connections confirmed tight twice before tossing the 20 year old assembly out. I’ve got a ford pump with 5k on it if you’re dropping the tank and want a good pump!

What would you like for it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is only the pump..id go $75 plus shipping and toss in a delphi good spare with 40 or 50k on it. I went to 255lph pump for the new motor so the stock style ones are no longer needed. You would still need the sending set up.

Andy - please post up what you find out. This exact thing is happening on my F150 project. I’ve got a different setup than you have but I think the fuel level sending unit so the info should carry over. First thing I need to try is unplug the sender. My speedo was out of the truck was out of the truck no connected to power and still pegged as full.

VintageIronFab wrote:Andy - please post up what you find out. This exact thing is happening on my F150 project. I’ve got a different setup than you have but I think the fuel level sending unit so the info should carry over. First thing I need to try is unplug the sender. My speedo was out of the truck was out of the truck no connected to power and still pegged as full.

I definitely will. It’s driving me crazy! Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds silly to say, but I'll throw it out. My '95 F150 speedometer needle and odo would go out once in a while and I'd mildly tap the top of the dash and it would come back on. Just the other week, at night, the same needle pinned/maxed out like your fuel gauge. Did the same smack to the dash and was normal again. I have pulled the cluster to look for shorts and such without any ultimate success. It did do it alot less when I pulled each of the multi pin connectors out. Sooo....Andy...have you tried whacking it?

redrdr67 wrote:Sounds silly to say, but I'll throw it out. My '95 F150 speedometer needle and odo would go out once in a while and I'd mildly tap the top of the dash and it would come back on. Just the other week, at night, the same needle pinned/maxed out like your fuel gauge. Did the same smack to the dash and was normal again. I have pulled the cluster to look for shorts and such without any ultimate success. It did do it alot less when I pulled each of the multi pin connectors out. Sooo....Andy...have you tried whacking it?

Haha! No.. I have not tried, whacking it.! I have a feeling that it might be the crappy O’Reilly pump. I believe the O-Ring they supplied is the wrong one as well. It doesn’t sit flush inside the divot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would see if the float fell off or something. When my tank gets super low the gauge goes up to past full and sometimes goes back and forth when the gas sloshes at super low levels.

This is a copy and paste of the link you were scared to open above. If you open it you will find the pinout of the connectors to trace it if needed.

Sender Range: 160 (full) - 16 (empty) Ohms
A gauge that pegs past full indicates an open circuit on the Y/W wire (broken wire; unplugged connector; corroded terminal; varnished sender; F-series - selector switch or connector faults).
A gauge that pegs past empty indicates a short to ground on the Y/W wire (pinched to the frame, body, or dash supports), OR a sunken float.
A gauge anywhere in between that doesn't move indicates an open circuit (blown fuse; corroded terminal) on the power (battery) side of the gauge OR a bad instrument cluster ground at C251 pin 9 (both of which would affect MORE of the cluster than strictly the fuel level gauge). To test it, ground the Y/Wh wire as close to the instrument cluster as possible, and turn the key to RUN. If the gauge instantly moves toward E, the gauge & its power/ground are good, and the fault is PAST where you grounded the Y/Wh wire. If not, the fault is BEFORE that point, in the gauge, cluster, or power/ground wiring.

The terminals of C251 (& C250) are known to corrode & lose contact (open). Polish both the connector pins AND the film circuit pads with brown paper or a pink eraser.

^^^Great info right there. Thanks for posting that MOSS2!