Cracked 8.8 Spring Perches – What to do?

[ChaseTruck754]

Got it. That kit is where the difference is. I was thinking you'd just buy hubs (+/- $500 when I was looking) & do a disk swap using dodge rotors or similar like you would with a 9" = doing a d60 = equal to or less than a 9" SF.

[Stan the Man]

Got it. That kit is where the difference is. I was thinking you'd just buy hubs (+/- $500 when I was looking) & do a disk swap using dodge rotors or similar like you would with a 9" = doing a d60 = equal to or less than a 9" SF.

Do you have information on those hubs and brake swap? I can pick up a D60 FF on craigslist for $100 all day.

[ChaseTruck754]

That $100 was my main factor fro the d60 swap. It's been years (literally) since I was looking at this, but I know solid sold just the hubs, that I THOUGHT worked on the stock snouts. I want to say RuffStuff had some hubs too. Another alternative is to machine the 5x5.5 lug pattern into the stock hubs. Had a buddy who did this so I know it's doable. If I remember right the studs did get fairly close to the hub center, so tight to the center bore on the wheel, but the corp 14 was worse for sure.

For brakes, here is the starting of my list of 5x5.5 rotors I was looking at. These are all slide one type rotors that would just go between the hub & wheel. I was looking at adding a spacer in a 4 piston, toyota tacoma caliper so as to make it wide enough for some of the wider rotors. There are lots of caliper options, though ones with an e-brake are very limited. I was just putting a swagelock ball valve on my system to use as a line lock style parking brake. I have a couple here I could sell for cheap if you went this route since I ended up not using my setup.

Also, Philo had some info somewhere on here about some of the dodge rotors as he was using them for brake upgrades to larger dia. rotors on the front of his bronco. As you can see, much of the info is not in here as I kind of dropped the project.

1982 Jeep CJ-5 – 4wd – front (I used these for a 9” disc conversion before)
VatoZone Part No. = #5110
Rotor Thickness = 0.875” Rotor Diameter = 11 7/8”
Overall rotor height w/ hat = 2 3/16” Hat depth (inside face to back of rotor) = 1 ¾”
Distance from front of hat to face of rotor = 1 5/16” Hat I.D. = 6.55”

1976-96 Ford Bronco (& Most F-150) – 4wd - front
VatoZone Part No. = #5446
Rotor Thickness = 1.200” Rotor Diameter = 11 3/4”
Overall rotor height w/ hat = 2 3/4” Hat depth (inside face to back of rotor) = 2 3/8”
Distance from front of hat to face of rotor = 1 1/2” Hat I.D. = 6.60”

1995 Ford F-150 – 4wd - front
VatoZone Part No. = #54020
Rotor Thickness = 0.---” Rotor Diameter =
Overall rotor height w/ hat = ---” Hat depth (inside face to back of rotor) =
Distance from front of hat to face of rotor = ---” Hat I.D. =

1994-99 Dodge Ram 1500 – 4wd - front
VatoZone Part No. = #5365
Rotor Thickness = 1.310” Rotor Diameter = 11 5/8”
Overall rotor height w/ hat = 2 5/8” Hat depth (inside face to back of rotor) =
Distance from front of hat to face of rotor = 1 ¼” Hat I.D. = 7.55” (?)

2000-01 Dodge Ram 1500 – 4wd – front *Already drilled for 9/16” studs!
VatoZone Part No. = #5394
Rotor Thickness = 1.030” Rotor Diameter = 11 ¾”
Overall rotor height w/ hat = 2 9/16” Hat depth (inside face to back of rotor) = 2 ¼”
Distance from front of hat to face of rotor = 1 ½” Hat I.D. = 6.525”

2002-04 Dodge Ram 1500 – 4wd - front
VatoZone Part No. = #53005
Rotor Thickness = 0.---” Rotor Diameter =
Overall rotor height w/ hat = ---” Hat depth (inside face to back of rotor) =
Distance from front of hat to face of rotor = ---” Hat I.D. =

[Stan the Man]

Thanks for the info. Interesting for sure.

Ruff Stuff Specialties just sells the Solid Axle hubs. From the descriptions, their hubs won't fit on the Ford snouts, just Chevy and Dodge. Not sure what the differences are between the three snouts.

[Stan the Man]

I'm back pursuing this 8.8 replacement option. My re-perched axle has held up well, but still seeps oil. It's not leaving oil spots on the ground as before, but the tube tube is still showing oil seepage.

My latest idea is to snag a nearly free Sterling 10.25 out of a friends '89 F-250 parts truck. I'd put in a Detroit, regear, and convert to disks. I'd have to figure out if I want to do 5 lug rear (same as we discussed on the D60 option above) or go 8 lug in the front.

Anything I should be aware of? Any reason not to go Sterling? Any general advice with this new information?

[ChaseTruck754]

The 10.25's are good axles, just like the D60's or corp 14's they are 35 spline and full floater. They are also non disk brake like the older 60's and corp 14's, but they are not hard to convert to disk in the 8 lug format though. Not sure if anyone makes hubs to convert to 5x5.5, but RuffStuff would be a good place to start. At darn near free for the axle it's a pretty good argument FOR it. Saves your budget to spend on locker, gears & hubs.

[LvSteve]

PM sent

[yikes]

I'm back pursuing this 8.8 replacement option. My re-perched axle has held up well, but still seeps oil. It's not leaving oil spots on the ground as before, but the tube tube is still showing oil seepage.

My latest idea is to snag a nearly free Sterling 10.25 out of a friends '89 F-250 parts truck. I'd put in a Detroit, regear, and convert to disks. I'd have to figure out if I want to do 5 lug rear (same as we discussed on the D60 option above) or go 8 lug in the front.

Anything I should be aware of? Any reason not to go Sterling? Any general advice with this new information?

I've been running a 10.25 with a Detroit for over 10 years with zero issues. Talk with Robert at Flight Industries. He's got some budget options to get you converted to 5 on 5.5. My only advice is to convert to a long pinion if/when you do gears and weld a skidplate to the bottom of the center section. They're road graders.

[Stan the Man]

The 10.25's are good axles, just like the D60's or corp 14's they are 35 spline and full floater. They are also non disk brake like the older 60's and corp 14's, but they are not hard to convert to disk in the 8 lug format though. Not sure if anyone makes hubs to convert to 5x5.5, but RuffStuff would be a good place to start. At darn near free for the axle it's a pretty good argument FOR it. Saves your budget to spend on locker, gears & hubs.

Thanks, I figure any 3/4 or 1 ton axle is better than a leaky old 8.8. Ideally a fabricated FF 9 would be best to keep weight down, but from a price perspective I'll be leaps and bounds ahead.

[Stan the Man]

PM sent

Cool, thanks! I'll send you a reply.

[Stan the Man]

I'm back pursuing this 8.8 replacement option. My re-perched axle has held up well, but still seeps oil. It's not leaving oil spots on the ground as before, but the tube tube is still showing oil seepage.

My latest idea is to snag a nearly free Sterling 10.25 out of a friends '89 F-250 parts truck. I'd put in a Detroit, regear, and convert to disks. I'd have to figure out if I want to do 5 lug rear (same as we discussed on the D60 option above) or go 8 lug in the front.

Anything I should be aware of? Any reason not to go Sterling? Any general advice with this new information?

I've been running a 10.25 with a Detroit for over 10 years with zero issues. Talk with Robert at Flight Industries. He's got some budget options to get you converted to 5 on 5.5. My only advice is to convert to a long pinion if/when you do gears and weld a skidplate to the bottom of the center section. They're road graders.

Great, thanks for that advice! I'll send him a message.

From my initial research, it looks like all (most?) new ring & pinions for the 10.25 come in the second generation long pinion - like an automatic upgrade.

How do you like that Detroit Locker for on-road and towing? I've been running an E-Locker for 10 years but am thinking of going with a Detroit to reduce costs and minimize potential mechanical issues when on the trail.

[yikes]

I dumped the ARB and never looked back. Detroit has been flawless. Drives straight, tows great. As long as the tire pressure is equal within a couple psi it's street manners are fine. Wears the tires a little faster than running open on the street though, so something to consider.

[Stan the Man]

I dumped the ARB and never looked back. Detroit has been flawless. Drives straight, tows great. As long as the tire pressure is equal within a couple psi it's street manners are fine. Wears the tires a little faster than running open on the street though, so something to consider.

Thanks for the insight!