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Just curious how you all liked to add run/acc circuits - or switchable power circuits? I was honestly hoping to be able to pull the fuse panel on the dash out enough to very cleanly use those but the harness is really anchored in there and won't move much. I really hate the idea of adding an
additional fuse panel but I'm not opposed to one either if ultimately necessary.

Thx,
Matt

Look ahead. There are many things that will be added in the future. I discovered that in My Bronco and of course it led to an extra hot and switched fuse panel. Bussman sell a nice 6 circuit panel which is what I used. I mounted them loosely under the radio on the tunnel. Easy to pull out for any additions or trouble shooting. Source for the switched panel was a fat wire near the steering column and I used a 20 or 30a fuse for the panel feed. For the hot I ran a 12ga directly from the batt with a 30A fuse on that feed.
Btw I would not want to use the stock fuse panel for additional circuits because I cannot determine what the oem wire sizes are and what the capability of the individual circuits are. Anyway in my experience modifying the oem stuff is full of pitfalls that are sometimes unpredictable.
Other methods can be used for a vintage rig like an EB since the oem wiring is so marginal in the first place. For an EB I would either never touch the oem panel or do a complete rewire and get rid on the old crappy stuff, wires and panel.

I agree with Paul in it's a bit different world for older vs. "newer" stuff like your F-150 Matt. For my '74 crew I'm dumping the old 5 circuit, glass fuse OEM fuse block with a new, aftermarket, 12 circuit panel. This is not something I would do any anything newer than early 80's though I don't think, and depending on what you are adding, I would probably do just like Paul says he would and run a smaller (6 circuit seems to be a common size) aux. fuse block. If you want the circuits on run or acc with the ignition switch then I have tied into the back of the ignition switch for power for something like this in the past.

Well I ended up using the Painless 70217 - it's got 7 circuits and uses 2 relays so I can have a run/acc side and a run side. Ther big aluminum structure under the dash has lots of beef, and a couple holes that I can mount a plate to and mount the box to that. I think what ill do to keep it all nice and clean is to de-pin the slots I'm not using until future needs arise.