short course or Full 4 link

tlatoolman · Post by **tlatoolman** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 6:37 am

I would like advice on this from my G.F.B Brothers. my 94 Bronco up Front I have Cut and Turn 2 1/2
running coil over.and the rear I am running Deaver Q80,Under bed shock kit from Threat and his extended Shackles and Mounts.at this time I am in the Middle of replacing the 8.8 with 9 inch full floating 2 inch over to match the front.The Fab shop that I am working with and every one who sees
the new 9 inch Keep Telling me do not put that kickass 9 inch under a Leaf Spring!!!
they are telling me that it would cheaper to go short course set up than the full 3 or 4 link
and it is just as strong and will work just as good and save me a lot of Cash. So what do you Think

Thank You Tim

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:38 am

If you're not caged already, doing a short course link setup will involve caging and going through the floor. Caging is $$$$, linkining is $$$$. The only uncaged 4 linked bronco was Otter's, with a cantilever system. Jump to the bottom of the page.

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... &start=140

tlatoolman · Post by **tlatoolman** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:03 am

the plan was to put in the full cage and at the same time upgrade the rear diff with the 9 inch.so with the Bronco down and the interior gutted out now would be the time to do some kind of link set up.I need to make up my mind on the way to go.I do not have a lot of experience with this so I am on a learning curve no matter witch way I go all it takes $$$$$$ I just want to make a good choice

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:14 am

Keenan quickly went from leafs to links after he caged LaBronc. He said the difference in ride was like night and day.

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 12:16 pm

The only difference I can see is that with the short course set up you don't have to run those huge lower links, but you will need longer shocks which will stick up higher in the back of the bronco.

tlatoolman · Post by **tlatoolman** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 12:34 pm

Yha that is some thing to consider setting up to high in the back could be a problem.I think it is time to cut and mock up and see witch way to go.I think most people go 4 link most likely for a reason
Thank You Tim

damon1272 · Post by **damon1272** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 1:25 pm

I wouldn't get too wrapped up in the way to go. One of the advantages of the desert style is that you run shorter shocks and they have a slower shaft speed over any given bump. They will run cooler. That said you look at the buggies running at a near one to one and they work fine. Dependent on what powertrain setup you are running will determine more of your rear travel. C6 is shorter thus giving you a longer drive shaft. E4OD is a longer set up thus limiting your travel some. But rather than getting too caught up in travel numbers remember, you can only go so fast with only 104" of wheel base.

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Sat Apr 15, 2017 2:51 pm

I'd look into the 64" sua as an option as well. They work very well and are way less involved that link set up.

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VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Sun Apr 16, 2017 10:14 am

If you do decide on 64" brackets I'm not at all impressed with the Giant 64" stuff I bought. Ridiculously subpar for $350.

tlatoolman · Post by **tlatoolman** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 11:11 am

UPDate I have made up my mind to go with Desert Canoe-Style.My Fabracitor and I are going to make up owe set-up.keep in mind I understand a lot and need to learn a lot more!! We have a lot of good Idea on how we are going to do it.any and all input for you all will be a big help.we plan to start with about 58 inch lower Arms and it looks like my driveline angle will max out at about 41 deg with about 19 to 24 inch travel.we are still in mock up at this point not a thing set in stone yet still planning.he wants to keep the lower arm strate and I want to put a deg of up word pitch what do you all think?

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 3:01 pm

Here's a link to a pretty awesome 4 link calculator. Jump to the last page and you'll find a link to the open source version. There you'll be able to compare lower link pitch. IIRC, 0* lower links at ride height help will decrease the roll center.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general- ... 93?page=43

You'll need to know alot of other info to get you very close.

Also, the only person I know running lower links that long is Michael Cox. His link length was built around optimizing driveline reliability.

Btw, post pics of your bronco.

tlatoolman · Post by **tlatoolman** » Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:46 am

I like that program I am going to try it out Thank You. yha I do need to post pic of my Bronco soon

hollandermotorsports · Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:21 pm

Ok here is my 2 cents. My bronco has Solo 48" canoe lower links. I run the same length shocks as Cox bronco as well as Cho's old bronco short coarse link I run an 18" bypass. That is a long shock. Here is my thoughts and I have been around this stuff for a little while. Short coarse stuff is great if you want to limit travel and have a close to 1:1 ratio. I cycle 24.5" bumped and strapped and I had to jump through hoops to make that work. Standard set up you are looking at 20" with e4od or 23" with c6. My drive train is dialed I do not eat heims or u joints. While cycling this travel I use about 1.25" of my drive shaft slip. I run a c6 and I have changed the output location of my transfer case to be able to successfully accomplish this. Now with that said 1.25" plunge is terrible but great for a short wheelbase bronco with off the shelf components. Just a FYI a lot of TTs and high end trucks cycle 2"+ plunge. I usually tend to like to be around 3/16" to 1/4" tops so that you are not loading diff and trans through travel while on the throttle. Your arm length 100% depends on distance from trans to diff so a long arm can really hurt you contrary to what people think. I will tell you from my experience that a lot of guys have different ideas on how 4 link should work but do your homework cause reworking is twice as much as doing it right the first time. We just redid the rear suspension of a new pro4 (only 2 races on it) in the off season took it from 3 link to 4 link and 2.25" plunge to .125" of plunge and added adjustability for traction for different dirt tracks (anti squat with adjustable instant center) and it cost the customer $25k+ to redo all of the work they paid racer to do initially so that's why I say study, mock up, cycle, cycle, cycle and hit it right the first time.

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Mon Apr 24, 2017 4:02 pm

Both Camburg and Solo offer a complete 4 link kit. Top quality and not that bad $$. They already spent them money on figuring out. Just my .02

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tlatoolman · Post by **tlatoolman** » Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:10 am

HI Brandon I was over at your shop when you were building the Bink Designs Bronco.we plan to start with 44 in lower links and C notch the frame to achieve that.I do not now abou the Plunge yet we will finde out and change as needed.Yes I could go out and buy off the shelf but there is no fun in that 1/2 the fun is in building your own parts. and making work the way you want it work (with a little help from your friends)

Thank You Tim

hollandermotorsports · Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:14 am

Building custom is the best way to get the best performance. Off the shelf stuff is good enough and will save you design time and dough but 4 link built to the vehicle with axle placed, motor placed and transmission placed is far superior. trust me stuff simple as motor mounts and trans mounts can effect the performance of your drivetrain with 4 link. Ya that when we were finishing my bronco Richer Racing did a ton of work on my bronco because of my time constraints and business demands. If you need any help feel free to contact me. For whatever it is worth the Richer Racing spring under kit will cycle like 21" which with 4 link you will not gain much more if any depending on drivetrain. It will also save you several 1000s of dollars and will not require an immediate cage.

funinthesun95 · Post by **funinthesun95** » Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:35 am

Up travel at ride height is huge .... on any set up.

this has been stated above numbers don't mean much if things done work correctly. Usable travel is the number you want along with shocks set up correctly inside, springs etc.

tlatoolman · Post by **tlatoolman** » Wed Apr 26, 2017 6:33 am

I do Trust you Brandon You bet every little thing comes it to play.it is all going in my head makes me dizzy sometimes. like my fab guy wants to keep the lower link straight. and I want to go like every one with a slight up angle at the end by the shock mount.the lower link will start off at 38 inch notch
the frame put me at 20" driveline angle 38deg. still playing at this point a lot more to do
Thank You Tim