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I am in the middle of my conversion. From drop bracket to a cut and turned set up. I am trying to get the driver side axle shaft to slide into the differential but it simply will not. It starts to engage as I feel it in the teeth and bite as the drive shaft spins the shaft when I turn it. Any ideas? Tried all the usual ones and nothing truck should have been done a few days ago but this is halting progress. Does the diff have that much play in it? The front 10 bolts are snug for the seal but the two side bolts are loose. Should I tighten those? I'm at my wits end here and don't know what to do besides start over......

You may have too much angle in your cut and turn possibly. Is the U-joint hitting the knuckle on the bottom?

That diff has more play then you might think- loosen all the bolts - small cover and the 2 side- if that won't work then it's a do over. How big was your filler piece- it's only about 1" if I remember right???

The cut and turn was done by autofab. I was going yo loosen everything but didn't want to disturb the rv seal since the passenger side is done but may have to. Also what do you mean by filler?

If it is Autofab then you should be ok but check just to be sure. The filler piece he was referring to is the extra piece of steel you put in to fill the gap when you cut and move the lower ball joint out to get alignment.

Did you try tapping on the end to get it in there? The little ring can be a pain sometimes to get back in past the splines.

So i was able to get it installed... with the knuckle off. When I put the knuckle back on the angle of the axle shaft/u joint is contacting the lower ball joint stud when trying to install loose (won't allow for nut to go on at all). It also appears the shaft isn't centered and is real close to touching the arm. Any thoughts?

Couple of things, may want to pull the differential off and make sure the it is rotated as much as possible in a clock wise rotation as viewed from the driver seat. If there is no play you may have to have the differential clocked. If you purchased these directly from John then I would give him a call. If not then you can re-drill the diff bolts about 3/8" to rotate the axle up. I would suspect they may not be Autofab beams.

That might be the case I got them from someone on the forum here and stated the work was autofab (even picked up a radius arm from them).

I would have to see a picture of it. I don't see how the u joint could be closer to the ball joint just by beam work. There might be an issue with your ball joint or knuckle/spindle. Does it come close when the axle is in the knuckle/spindle and the knuckle is off of the beam?

Post some pics

I dont think Autofab has any specific marks on them to tell if they are indeed Autofab, i havnt seen any on my beams. Who did you buy them from and have you reached out to them?

I agree was told by the individual it was done by John at Autofab as mentioned got a radius arm from his shop so didn't really doubt it. I reached out to them and yet to hear back as I am really inquiring if he ever installed it or did it just sit around. Photos will be posted tonight when I get a chance I miss driving it been a couple weeks.

I believe that John at Autofab does his cut and turn a bit different than most other shops. He doesn't cut the lower balljoint ear, but instead does a "pie cut" on the beam and welds in a wedge. Then he grinds it to a smooth finish. Its hard to even notice. My friend has autofab beams on his bronco and this is how it was done.

Thanks somehow I got it together and have it driving. Only issue is the driver side is leaking gear oil dont know if it is due to how poorly my fill job went yesterday or if the seal is bad.

Got the bronco in for alignment and they stating the are unable to get the ball joint innot the c portion of the arm. When measuring the id of the c portion on the arm I get 7 inches off my old beams but 6 5/8 on the cut and turn ones I installed. Any reason why the difference? I don't see that changing even with a bad cut and turn because why would you cut and reposition them? All I want to do is drive the bronco and every roadblock is coming up.

When they c/t the beams they probably cut off the lower balljoint mount and moved it out. It probably got moved up by accident when they welded it all up. I'm sure there is a fabricator nearby that could help realign the lower ear.

What is the reason you needed only one radius arm? Was the old one bent by chance?

No this its the ttb itself. I have some old arms for sales if needed.

SO went to the shop. Does anyone know if the knuckles themselves between any of the years were different (87-88 particularity)? Essentially the upper ball joint is bottoming out when being tightened up (since the c opening is different). Odd part is both have the same dimensions. Any ideas? Would rather find out an answer before I tear apart my whole front end and replace with my old beams that will be reworked.