Best year to build?

PELLEY · Post by **PELLEY** » Mon Feb 22, 2016 12:26 pm

Hey guys,

Been a few years since I parted out my last Bronco. Finding myself wanting another one all the time! I am seriously considering buying another one and doing more of a long term more serious build this time.

So with that said, I am trying to figure out what year is the best to build. I know they all have their pros and cons. There are a few areas I know about and some that I just don't know enough.

I want to do a full build. Gut the interior, full cage, wider beams, keep it leads probably but still planning. I'm fine with a front end body conversion or whatever. Looking more at drive train stuff and trying to keep some features to save some time and money if possible.

Frame - Do the older year Broncos have any good or bad frame differences?

Transmission - Is it worth getting an older model with the C6. I know they are easier and cheaper to build and I like the lack of computer needed.

Engine - Is the 95 MAF 5.8 the best way to go? Or is it better to go older 5.8 and build it out a bit. I am admittedly not a big engine guy when it comes to experience. I want something with some reasonable power that will run 37" tires (geared appropriately of course). Is it best to build the older ones and carb them or can the newer motors be pumped up? Not opposed to an LS conversion of the 5.8's are just crap to build.

Transfer Case - Similar questions here. Electronic vs older manual styles.

Rear end - This will be upgraded either way. Is there going to be a benefit to one that already has a 9" factory. Will it save me a good amount of headache down the road?

Body - Other than the OG big Bronco, do the bodies of the 80 - 86 have any limitations when converting to the newer style grill/lights/etc?

Anything else I am missing?

I know this is a bit long... Thank you very much for any and all help!!!!

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Tue Feb 23, 2016 2:39 am

95 5.8 is a good motor. Rollover block and MAF but still obd1. Idk why obd2 is bad. I would assume it would be better as you can pull codes. Maybe more sensors to go bad. I like the reliability of fuel injection vs carb.

A lot of guys run the manual xfer case for reliability. You don't have to depend on the gear selector motor which fails often. I think the idea of being able to shift into 4wd at speed is great and I like my electronic xfer case. The older 80-82 have a bolt in passenger axle on the front differential which lets you easily use a locker without a c clip. The later years with the e4od trans have a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) in the rear 8.8 axle that it needs the signal from to shift correctly. There are relocation kits for this sensor so you can run a 9" which doesn't have the sensor.

The front clip matches up to the body on 80-96 with whatever style you like. The only difference is the windshield cowl is slight my different and the rear wheel well arches have a different lip on 80-86 vs 87-96 to match the front lip. If you are pulling glass all the way around this lip doesn't really matter because you are getting rid of the stock sheet metal anyways.

The front frame horns are different on 80-91 vs 92-96. The later years have a crumple zone built in for the front bumper.

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Tue Feb 23, 2016 2:41 am

I would stay away from the 5.0l motor. I didn't like it at all. I love the low end torque of the 5.8 in my 93 bronco and am looking forward to my 95 5.8l.

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Tue Feb 23, 2016 6:45 am

My opinion, hands down, ideal is a 95/96 5.8.

Pre-86 had the C6 and 9" but not fuel injection.

When building out suspension you are gonna have the rear out and apart to build so easy enough to ditch the 8.8 for a nice 9"

The E4OD has gotten a bad rap but put a big cooler and punish valve body and its not that bad. They are more to have built but when I called Culhane they said once it's built its every bit as strong as a C6

If you plan on doing any kind of engine work then having the MAF already is going to save you at least $1000 in conversion(which I'm working out now

)

Just my opinion.

PELLEY · Post by **PELLEY** » Tue Feb 23, 2016 8:15 am

Great info guys! So it's sounding like most of the quarks of the newer stuff can easily be worked through in order to get the better newer 5.8. Is there a good spot where I can get some info on building up the 5.8? I read through about 5 pages in the general tech section and didn't see much info.

Really appreciate the responses and help!

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:20 am

Tchajagos wrote:95 5.8 is a good motor. Rollover block and MAF but still obd1. Idk why obd2 is bad. I would assume it would be better as you can pull codes. Maybe more sensors to go bad.

I am one who has said I would prefer OBD1 vs. 2 in the past. That isn't a performance deal, but rather a smog one. OBD1 is a bit easier to smog here in commiefornia. OBD2 is nice because when you have an issue & throw a code it is a bit more specific which can help you narrow down chasing the issue.

Other than that, I agree with much of what has been said, but I'll also play devil's advocate here... If you don't have to deal with smog, and you are going to gut it, cage it, etc., does it really matter what you start with aside from having a non tweaked frame & a solid/non rusty body? I guess it comes down to how far you will actually go and how much you will actually spend, but you most likely would be tossing most of the stock stuff anyway for a full build, so why pay more to just toss it??? I guess you're looking at motor/trans/drivetrain as a buying point, but bang for the buck an LS is hard to beat. Throw one in with a 4L80 behind it and you may very well be in it less than the cost of a pretty good build on the 5.8L which MIGHT gain you the same or even a bit less power. This also comes down to if you will be doing the work or paying someone to do the work. Lots of variables here, so just be realistic with what you need vs. want, or what you are willing to pay for if the "want" is bad enough.

tvoymang · Post by **tvoymang** » Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:53 am

96 5.8 doesn't come with a smog pump, tab/tad sensors or a thermactor tube going to the exhaust. That's a huge plus to me since there's a tone of rubber hose to go bad. Issue with a 96 is aftermarket parts and smog. Computer HAS to be plugged into the dyno for smog.

PELLEY · Post by **PELLEY** » Tue Feb 23, 2016 11:11 am

You guys know so much about these trucks!

This will be a CA truck and not a trailer queen either. Not a DD but I want to be able to rip it around town or at races and such. So the smog stuff needs to stay.

So from the comments above the 95 OBD1 may be the ideal setup so I can mess with the motor a bit to punch it up a notch.

For the manual transfer case, is this an easy swap in on the 95's? Will it mess with the computer or cause codes or is it just ignored once installed?

To be more specific with my personal situation I know I will be spending a lot to build the truck, but I do obviously have limits and this won't be a no holds barred type build. I am willing to spend money in the right places like a good diff and shocks and such. But I would like something driveline wise to modify more than completely redo. I'm not scared to go far if required, but it would probably be best for my wallet if I could buy something that is there for the most part. As for fab work and design I am rather seasoned and will be doing all of this myself. I am sure I will seek some guidance from you guys too! I have two young boys so my goal is to keep seating for 4 of us. So I am thinking an all-in leaf set up with 3.0 bypasses and some custom leafs from National more than likely. Rear shocks into the cab and not under the body. Still undecided on the exact front configuration but I am wanting to go 37's from the start instead of wanting to upgrade later... So many things haha

baja-chris · Post by **baja-chris** » Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:46 pm

96 (obd-II) can be expensive to keep smog legal with oem-only dual cats for example. i'd avoid obd-II for that reason.
btw, it's not black and white about what years had what equipment, ford did running changes so for example you might find the same year bronco, both with 5.8 but with different tranny or xfer case from the factory.
btw2, an oem 9" is nothing to look for, the housings are too thin to hold up to prerunner use even when trussed, and they only had cheap quality 31 spline semi-floater axles that easily broke. use a fabricated housing.
also if you don't build it with overdrive, be prepared for terrible highway mileage (instead of just really bad mileage).

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:22 am

I can see how buying a early 80's and doing a full complete gut job, then going to a custom injection, nice C6, fabbed 9", 92-96 front nose conversion, a nice basic suspension, and a fabbed dash to ditch the 80's interior would be a really nice truck especially if you start without any rust. The electronics are nice for certain things but honestly the electronics are a complete nightmare from many aspects. If I had a great place to do a ground up build that could take a couple years- the 80's trucks minus all the stupid emissions and electronics would be a great way to go in my mind. As far as fuel economy- who knows how long cheap gas is going to stay-- at $1.58 here -- I don't give a damn about the mileage -- at $4gallon its painful no matter how much money you are pulling in!!

S00TLYFE · Post by **S00TLYFE** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:30 pm

I like my 89 because I have EFI and serpentine belt setup on my engine but I still have a C6 and manual Tcase.

PELLEY · Post by **PELLEY** » Sat Mar 26, 2016 11:37 am

Probably a newbie question, but does the C6 have overdrive? How would and 80's C6 do for high speeds on the freeway? Not caring a ton about MPG, but would get real old running 5K at 65mph...

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Sat Mar 26, 2016 12:29 pm

C6 does not have OD.

S00TLYFE · Post by **S00TLYFE** » Mon Mar 28, 2016 12:53 pm

PELLEY wrote:Probably a newbie question, but does the C6 have overdrive? How would and 80's C6 do for high speeds on the freeway? Not caring a ton about MPG, but would get real old running 5K at 65mph...

C6 is a 3 speed auto, I have one, its not that bad. drove it all the way to hammers and back from Anaheim and it was fine.

hollandermotorsports · Mon Mar 28, 2016 2:27 pm

PELLEY wrote:Probably a newbie question, but does the C6 have overdrive? How would and 80's C6 do for high speeds on the freeway? Not caring a ton about MPG, but would get real old running 5K at 65mph...

Its all about gearing and tire size.

PELLEY · Post by **PELLEY** » Mon Mar 28, 2016 6:43 pm

Well ideally if you did this build right, you would be re-gearing for tire size anyways, so it seems like the issue could be negated for the most part here. That is good to know.