Lets Talk Full Floater

[Wrightracing.net]

After years of helping teams that race Class 3,4,7, 8, Full Stock and sportsman trucks the full floater is almost a must for anyone that beats an axle in extreme conditions.

Many of my friends that have run semi floaters like a stock 9in have broke the axle past the retainer and lost a wheel during a race. That was even with 35spline axles.

Obviously we all don't run at race speeds and can't afford a $8000 Tube works rear end.

Now a friend that would say He is smarter than dirt would tell me and has told me to get a 14 bolt FF. Ya, I helped him move one of those from his storage unit and we had to have three of us to get it in the back of a stock F350. I think that thing was heaver than my first dune buggy.
I know, the major weight was in those OEM brake drums. Just thinking of that axle makes my back hurt. You can save a ton of weight by converting to disk brakes. The advantage is that the hubs are easy to convert to 5 on 5.5 lug pattern, strong FF, parts are readily available and semi cheap.

I have read people that have some problems with snout nuts but prepping a friends old Class 8 the axle nuts were never an issue.

Now, I have a Currie 9+ housing that has been great, but the Bronco is getting caged, Long Travel front and rear, so the axle being put through more ruffer stuff is a reality.
I have been thinking of cutting the bearing retainer flanges and have a shop install Full Floater
snouts on it. I am not doing to re-tube the thing and plan on 35 spline axles. I am at most going to be running 400-450 HP. I was thinking of 14 bolt snouts for the availability or parts and proven strong stuff. I am hoping with the hub and snout combo will give me a couple inches wider on each side. I have 3+ TTB housings per side up front.

So lets talk Full Floater Guys.

[ChaseTruck754]

What exactly are you wanting to talk about?

Having a wheel fly by you as your now wheel less axle drags in the dirt is no fun. So yes, floaters are good.

Aside from that you seem to have an idea of what you want. What else are you looking for?


For a "cheaper" floater you can go with speedway engineering or coleman. Get the GN snouts if you go one of these routes. Many places make hubs that fit the GN snouts.

I do get where you are going with the 14 bolt snouts on your 9" rear, but have you looked into how the drive plates would work for that?

A "typical" drive plate for a racing type floater is different than a "stock" type floater like a 14b or dana 60/70. The stock type have flanges that are "built in" to the end of the axle that bolt to the hub. A typical racing type floater has a drive plate that has a splined center that slides onto the hub. The end of the axle is then splined to accept this. Therefore both ends of the axle are splined.

While I have looked at the 5x5.5 hubs for the 14b it's been a while so I can't remember if they are set up for drive plates or the stock type axles with a built in drive flange. This would be something to look at if you go this route.

Also, if you go that route note that the 14b hubs CAN be machined to the 5x5.5 lug pattern. It is a bit tight, but can be done.

You might also look at the sterling snouts & hubs if you are going stock type ends vs custom "racing" types.


The above are all "lower" budget type deals. Keep in mind Camburg, Desert Specialtues, TubeWorks, etc. all have different snouts & hubs. Some are 2.5" snouts, some 2.25 and many people make hubs to fit the 2" GN snouts. There is also a 2" snout with a wider bearing spread than the GN hubs I think now as well.

[cs_drums]

What are you using the bronco for? Racing or prerunner/fun?
I went through a bunch of senarios in my head and I came to the conclusion that I would let the axles tell me if I have to make another $2000 investment.
I was told the issue with the semi-float is more the bearings than the axle itself. That the bearings will chew themselves up before the axle will fail. 31-35 spline are all the same diameter at the bearing and retainer. You could go to a 40 spline but then the bearing is even more of an issue.

I dont race it makes sense to me to go semi float. I have a dirt tech housing, mark williams big bearing nod 3rd and 35 spline SF axles. for $300 I can get a spare axle, bearing and retaining plate to keep it in the truck. If I have to get out and change it in the middle of the desert Im still getting home. Now if this starts to happen regularly I will upgrade to FF thats why I didnt cheap out on the rest of the rearend. So far so good, only time will tell.

I guess a long story short. I would run what what you have, which sound like a good set up, until it starts giving you issues then assess it then. Or spend the extra $2k you have lying around on hubs and axles haha.

Just my $.02

[drewbee88]

If you go the 14 bolt route, I would do the solid hubs that are already machined and ready to roll for 5 lug or 6 lug setup. Plus I believe they are aluminum. I was going this route with my rear end and beings I swapped my front hubs to Dana 50 I elected to just throw a 14 bolt out back and run 8 lug. I like the 9inch with stock floater hubs. But the grand national hubs are pretty good for the price. Not sure if its worth the hassle to go with stock style

[Wrightracing.net]

My goal is to prerun-chase with the Bronco but have it able to race if I get a burr in my butt to run a race out at plaster city or Code one of these days. If we ever get a series like FUD again out at Plaster City.

I have seen a 14 hub and drive plate setup where the axles were splined on both sides making it easy to swap a broken one and carry a spare. I would like to run the already made aluminum 5 lug. Going the 14 bolt conversion with conversion axles would cost around $800-$900 dollars. In the end I think I would end up with a strong setup.

I plan to run the current Currie 9+ with truss, nodular 3rd member and Detroit locker.
I have put thousands of Baja miles on it from Bajia de los Angeles to San Telmo Road and down to La Paz. Along with Playing in the Dunes of Pismo and Glamis. It is still in great shape. I just want a piece of mind when I am heading down the river valley from Cataviña in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night.

Now my whole idea for the Thread (Lets talk Full Floater) is to hear what others have done and the pros and cons.

[cs_drums]

Going the 14 bolt conversion with conversion axles would cost around $800-$900 dollars. In the end I think I would end up with a strong setup.

This sounds like a vary cost effective conversion. I am intrigued what hubs, do you have a link?

[damon1272]

Here you go.

http://solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/vie ... ategory=11

[Rmc]

If I were to ad a chunk to this conversation stay away from pro- am unless you willing to run pro-am. Not for the faint of heart there housing snouts are over 900$ each and their hubs are well beyond 2k so even if you find a used set it may cost you thousands to get them ready to run with all needed parts. Drive plates are about 8-900$ each as well, ask me how I know lol.

[Wrightracing.net]

I forgot where I looked up the stuff a few years back. I am going to do some more research when I have more time, but I would like to find a kit like the one in the link below. This kit is a Dana 60 conversion with 5 lug hubs. Prices look like they may have been going up. Picking up the parts separately may save some.

http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc ... ategory=16

We shall see.

There is a good back yard build on converting a 9in on the Pirate 4x4 forum.

[ChaseTruck754]

I have seen a 14 hub and drive plate setup where the axles were splined on both sides making it easy to swap a broken one and carry a spare. I would like to run the already made aluminum 5 lug. Going the 14 bolt conversion with conversion axles would cost around $800-$900 dollars. In the end I think I would end up with a strong setup.

I'd like to see a pic of that setup with the drive plates. The solid ones seem to be set up for the stock, flange type axles if I remember correctly.


As for what others have done. I have a speedway housing with GN snouts/hubs sitting here. It's what my buddies have run on most everything from 1450 to Class to to whatever.

[Wrightracing.net]

I did find This for $850

http://www.9inchfloater.com/CompleteRrE ... _28_31.htm

[cs_drums]

Those are 31 spline though. The 35 spline are $1250 plus you still need axles. Still not bad I was very close to going this route but I didn't have the $$ at the time.

[Andy Jones]

The 35 spline and 40 spline Shriner come with axles.

[cs_drums]

With the hub kit or the complete rearend?

[Wrightracing.net]

The 35 spline is complete Hub to hub
SE-2010 Complete 9" Ford Floater Rear End 35 Spline
Does not include gear,bracing or brake calipers. $ 1,899.00

Ford 9 Inch Floater Rear End Includes:
Axles
Hubs
Drive Plates
Snouts
New Tubes
New Center
Rotors - 11.5" Diameter
Axle Caps
Bearings
Locking Nuts
Caliper Brackets
Seals
Races
Wheel Studs
Drive Plate Screws

Bolt Pattern Information:
5x5.5, 6x5.5 -- Custom bolt patterns available.

[cs_drums]

I got quoted from him when when i was getting a new axle. It the trussing and adding extra width came around $2600-2800 I cant remember. That might have been for his fabbed style housing. It was the most economical FF set up when I priced them. Also I believe they are 3.25" .188 wall if i remember correctly. I wanted a more stout housing. There is a member on here, Ryan, that has one of his rear ends, may just be hubs. Maybe he'll shime in.

This thread is making me want to do the upgrade NOW hahah to bad I dont have the money.

[Wrightracing.net]

I saw a set of 14 Bolt snouts made by Balistic to convert the 9in to full floater and the price was only.

Here is the link.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Ful ... _1697.html

I am leaning in this direction. 14 bolt stuff is easy to find.

[Wrightracing.net]

So have been thinking about the 14 Bolt snouts and I was thinking about the axles. On a stock axle the 14 bolts have a splined axle on the diff side and a flange that is welded to the outer side of the axle to bolt to the hub. On race axles we see it splined on both sides and a drive plate.

Now my thinking is to have a axle splined on both sides so the axles splines would be longer to fit both sides. We had a race truck with a axle splined to be interchangeable, side to side. I was also thinking of a solid slug that bolts to the hub and the axle spline fits into the splines in the slug like a drive plate.

So my thinking and I may be wrong, is that a splined slug made of 4130 would be stronger than a flange welded to the end of a axle. Also the benefit of interchangeable axles. This is just me thinking out load.

I did look into the 5 on 5.5 14 bolt conversion hubs and the ones I found are 2.25 inches shorter than stock hubs so you can retain stock axles. That is what they say on their website. I want to stay with a stock width hub so I can get wider just buy adding the FF snouts and 14b hubs.

[drewbee88]

So have been thinking about the 14 Bolt snouts and I was thinking about the axles. On a stock axle the 14 bolts have a splined axle on the diff side and a flange that is welded to the outer side of the axle to bolt to the hub. On race axles we see it splined on both sides and a drive plate.

Now my thinking is to have a axle splined on both sides so the axles splines would be longer to fit both sides. We had a race truck with a axle splined to be interchangeable, side to side. I was also thinking of a solid slug that bolts to the hub and the axle spline fits into the splines in the slug like a drive plate.

So my thinking and I may be wrong, is that a splined slug made of 4130 would be stronger than a flange welded to the end of a axle. Also the benefit of interchangeable axles. This is just me thinking out load.

I did look into the 5 on 5.5 14 bolt conversion hubs and the ones I found are 2.25 inches shorter than stock hubs so you can retain stock axles. That is what they say on their website. I want to stay with a stock width hub so I can get wider just buy adding the FF snouts and 14b hubs.

They make 35 spline axle plates for the 14 bolt. Which would allow for a 35 splined axle on both ends and that are interchangeable, as well as the hubs, I have a buddy that did the solid hubs on his full floater 14bolt. And with the shorter hubs he is at 72 or 73 wms to wms. That's with the srw hubs on a drw housing which is the widest stock 14 bolt setup.

[Wrightracing.net]

So have been thinking about the 14 Bolt snouts and I was thinking about the axles. On a stock axle the 14 bolts have a splined axle on the diff side and a flange that is welded to the outer side of the axle to bolt to the hub. On race axles we see it splined on both sides and a drive plate.

Now my thinking is to have a axle splined on both sides so the axles splines would be longer to fit both sides. We had a race truck with a axle splined to be interchangeable, side to side. I was also thinking of a solid slug that bolts to the hub and the axle spline fits into the splines in the slug like a drive plate.

So my thinking and I may be wrong, is that a splined slug made of 4130 would be stronger than a flange welded to the end of a axle. Also the benefit of interchangeable axles. This is just me thinking out load.

I did look into the 5 on 5.5 14 bolt conversion hubs and the ones I found are 2.25 inches shorter than stock hubs so you can retain stock axles. That is what they say on their website. I want to stay with a stock width hub so I can get wider just buy adding the FF snouts and 14b hubs.

They make 35 spline axle plates for the 14 bolt. Which would allow for a 35 splined axle on both ends and that are interchangeable, as well as the hubs, I have a buddy that did the solid hubs on his full floater 14bolt. And with the shorter hubs he is at 72 or 73 wms to wms. That's with the srw hubs on a drw housing which is the widest stock 14 bolt setup.

That is about where I want to be. I have a 65" ford 9" that I was planning on cutting the semi floater flanges and installing the Balistic 14 Bolt snouts. When the snouts are installed with stock width hubs, it should be between 70-71 inches wide. That would be a good fit to the +3 per side on the front end.