Lets Talk Full Floater

[ntsqd]

Yeah, that EDIT button would be nice to have back.

My 3/4t parts came off of a Craigslist ad. I bought a pair of axle housings with a bunch of parts missing. A high pinion D44 live axle from a '79 FSB/F-150 (I think it was, TZ?) that someone had added the GM front parts to (building their idea of an "Ultimate D44"?), and a D60 that was just a housing and wheel hubs. No bearing caps, no axle shafts.
You *might* have some luck using searchtempest to see if you can find the parts that way? I'm sure that we can organize rounding them up and getting them to you one way or another.

[ChaseTruck754]

You *might* have some luck using searchtempest to see if you can find the parts that way? I'm sure that we can organize rounding them up and getting them to you one way or another.

I've shipped stuff to him a few times before when he gathers parts from here in the US, but shipping anything that heavy over there is a deal killer usually. Heck, last small-ish box of parts I sent him would been about $20 to ship domestically but it was $90 to get down there. I'd hate to see what big and heavy stuff would cost

[ntsqd]

I could weigh all of my bits so that we could have some idea of what the shipping would cost if that would help any?

[AussieRod]

Yeah, that EDIT button would be nice to have back.

My 3/4t parts came off of a Craigslist ad. I bought a pair of axle housings with a bunch of parts missing. A high pinion D44 live axle from a '79 FSB/F-150 (I think it was, TZ?) that someone had added the GM front parts to (building their idea of an "Ultimate D44"?), and a D60 that was just a housing and wheel hubs. No bearing caps, no axle shafts.
You *might* have some luck using searchtempest to see if you can find the parts that way? I'm sure that we can organize rounding them up and getting them to you one way or another.

That'd be great, thanks. I'm not in a hurry, so I'll do more looking and see what I can find, then we can talk further.

[AussieRod]

You *might* have some luck using searchtempest to see if you can find the parts that way? I'm sure that we can organize rounding them up and getting them to you one way or another.

I've shipped stuff to him a few times before when he gathers parts from here in the US, but shipping anything that heavy over there is a deal killer usually. Heck, last small-ish box of parts I sent him would been about $20 to ship domestically but it was $90 to get down there. I'd hate to see what big and heavy stuff would cost

You da man, Steve. I'm still in the search stage, and I'm not in any hurry right now. We will work it out.

[AussieRod]

You *might* have some luck using searchtempest to see if you can find the parts that way? I'm sure that we can organize rounding them up and getting them to you one way or another.

I've shipped stuff to him a few times before when he gathers parts from here in the US, but shipping anything that heavy over there is a deal killer usually. Heck, last small-ish box of parts I sent him would been about $20 to ship domestically but it was $90 to get down there. I'd hate to see what big and heavy stuff would cost

My 351C engine kit cost me US$660, with the grand total US$935 after shipping and duties/taxes. Ouch.

[mobil1syn]

My 351C engine kit cost me US$660, with the grand total US$935 after shipping and duties/taxes. Ouch.

after working some aussies who build ultra4 cars (which there is no where to race down then because of the stupid motor size restrictions) it is insane to me there is even a racing scene let alone enough to make a living at it.

[AussieRod]

My 351C engine kit cost me US$660, with the grand total US$935 after shipping and duties/taxes. Ouch.

after working some aussies who build ultra4 cars (which there is no where to race down then because of the stupid motor size restrictions) it is insane to me there is even a racing scene let alone enough to make a living at it.

No racing scene for me, as I am a 'pureblood'. If you ain't 'jabbed' you ain't racing.

[AussieRod]

Ok, here is what I have for an 8 lug conversion on the 80 - 96 TTB 5 lug Bronco/F150.

Most of the parts are available new at partsmike.com.
This is a list of all the parts needed:

wmprice.jpeg (178.13 KiB) Viewed 1620 times

I am currently trolling ebay for any of the above parts I can get here in Aus, the rest I'll source from USA.
My $0.02.

[ntsqd]

Various info re: above. I use a 1979 K20 (3/4t, 4x4) Suburban as my reference vehicle because I owned one, took it to the B1K in '01 ("La Ballena Blanca"). I then used it's bits to convert my '91 Sub to 3/4t running gear when the Rust Monster had taken too much of the '79.

Chevy caliper mounting plate:
There's one on ebay right now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133937061800?h ... Sws9BhlHun These are distinct in that they are formed from one piece of ~1/4" thick plate - the whole thing, not just where the caliper attaches to it. I am not aware of any feature that might make these "handed", I believe that one can work on either side of the vehicle.
Contrast above with this one for the smaller 5/6 lug K10 rotor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234148391569?h ... SwT5lhHuoX Notice how the dust shield is a separate part made from sheet metal. All of the 3/4t caliper brackets that I've seen were made like the first link.

Outer Axle Shafts:
Yukon offers the GM outers in both 1541H and 4130 (they also offer the RH inner in those alloys, but I've yet to isolate a LH inner p/n). In 1541H the p/n's are: YA D41677 for the outers and YA D72112-1X for the RH inner.

Spindle Studs & nuts:
PartsMike isn't the only source for those. I got mine off ebay from https://www.ebay.com/usr/candmgearworks or from https://www.ebay.com/usr/horsepowersales-llc/ don't recall which.

Chevy Brake Calipers & pads:
The std. caliper has a 2-15/16" piston. There is a version out there with a 3-3/32" piston. I am not convinced that those are needed. The Ford caliper has a 2-7/8" piston, so the std. caliper is a better hydraulic match (pedal feel consideration). These calipers use the FMSI D52 pad backing plate and I refer to them as "D52 Calipers". They are commonly used in racing where the classes are limited to OEM calipers and as such there is a huge range of pad compounds available for them. Early versions use a 7/16NF thread for the banjo bolt. Later versions use an M10 thread for the banjo bolt. Be sure of what you get matching the banjo bolts that you have. IME the brake hose works with either bolt.
(Low buck trick for re-using those copper crush washers: heat them with a propane torch until they just barely start to glow, then drop them into water to anneal them dead soft. Can do this once or twice before they're too done to use again.)

Caliper Mounting Hardware:
GM calipers use a special pair of bolts to hold them to the brackets that both the caliper and the pads slide on. Can buy these new. In the US these are too inexpensive to mess around with bunged-up hardware, better to simply replace them. In their Tech classes for Vehicle Technicians GM recommends using silicone dielectric grease to lubricate their brake assemblies.
Top-Tip: Something that I didn't know (maybe more experienced mechanics do know this, but I didn't) the outer GM brake pads have ears on them that are supposed to be bent enough that it takes a large set of Channel Locks to pop them into place on the caliper body. Failure to do this results in outer pads pads that "clank".

U-Joints:
Something that I just came across yesterday, the 5-760X is now available with a corrosion resistant blue coating under p/n 5-760XC About $38 each at Summit.

Ball-Joints:
I bought the Mevotech TTX's, p/n's TXK8195T & TXK80026 according to Rock Auto. They're still in the boxes, so no use report on them yet.

[AussieRod]

All good info.
FWIW, Jeep J20 8 lug is all the same as the chevy K20 3/4 ton and sub. I've actually converted a TTB to SJ 1/2 ton 6 lug, although the grinding on the knuckle required to clear the caliper I wouldn't recommend on a road going vehicle. It worked just fine and I never broke a knuckle off-road racing.
These: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234148391569?h ... SwT5lhHuoX, according to my eye-crometers are the same as the rusty one, only the useless extra metal is a removable dust shield, which might make the converion easier. I'll make enquiries as to their suitability.
Axles, spindles, bearings I can get and the prices are reasonable, even if the postage is shear rape. I'm still browsing for alternate sources.
To be continued......

[ntsqd]

I'd ask specifically if those work with the 3/4t, ~12.5" OD rotors as they look like the 1/2t parts that I removed from the '91 Sub to put the 3/4t stuff on it.

[AussieRod]

I'd ask specifically if those work with the 3/4t, ~12.5" OD rotors as they look like the 1/2t parts that I removed from the '91 Sub to put the 3/4t stuff on it.

Absolutely. That is the reason to call and confirm they use the 3/4 ton rotor size. If not, I'll keep on searching for the correct ones.

[toddz69]

Those are for the 1/2 ton trucks - specifically states so right in the ad.

Todd Z.

[ntsqd]

Might ask the seller of the single 3/4t part if they have or can get two of them.

[AussieRod]

Those are for the 1/2 ton trucks - specifically states so right in the ad.

Todd Z.

Noticed that right off the bat, so didn't bother to enquire.

[AussieRod]

Might ask the seller of the single 3/4t part if they have or can get two of them.

He only has the one, but he will look around for a pair, if available.

[AussieRod]

Found a complete 10 bolt 3/4 ton front axle for $275, however, it's in Oregon. Bloody hell.

[ntsqd]

Where in Oregon?

[AussieRod]

Where in Oregon?

Bert's Auto Salvage, 30775 Baggett Lane, Hermiston OR. 97838
541-567-5159 or 800-854-1455
The vehicle stock # is 180514.
There is a complete 10 bolt 8 lug under it for $275. I've sent an enquiry for just everything out from the knuckles.

I've also made several enquiries regarding a pair of caliper brackets for the 3/4 ton chevy, still awaiting responses.