GoFastBroncos.com

It is pricey for a battery box, but it is pretty slick. Just bolt it or weld it to your frame and slap in battery. Probably worth it, considering the time you save by not fabbing up something yourself.

I think the above sums up about all of John's product. Nice, thought out stuff, but spendy.

Our batteries were under the hood taking rocks and adding weight to the nose. I've seen quite a few batteries underneath but there's still those rocks and all the other crap all over them. For us they're best in the back and now she flies level too!

Read up on why side posts on Optimas are a bad option. Optima is not like Platinum or Deka ones because of the conducting path between the top post and the side post are designed differently. Optima side posts are for low amp use. Your application may be different?

FWIW anyone building their own rear bumper and isn't dead set on having a indented step with close to stock dimensions can probably find enough space between the aft cross member and the bumper for mounting two batteries...a winch, a huge hydraulic reservoir, or some other fun thing that's hard to put elsewhere.

My $story$
Long time ago before I did the WB stretch I made a steel box that would hold 2 Optimas and mounted the box to a cross member drivers side aft of the transfer. I used long all-thread to allow lowering the box to allow servicing the fuel filter. Clearance seemed good enough. Pretty sorry choice for batt location.
I do not recommend using any kind of relays to control the batts, but I use a boat 4 position switch mounted under the driver seat.
Now days the batts are mounted behind the wheel wells next to the inner fenders.
I have switched to standard rectangular batts and I had to replace the Optima specific batt holders. More stupid expense for choosing the wrong batt holders in the first place. Standard batt holders work fine with Optimas if that is your choice.
Routing fat batt cables need secondary protection like split loom or sliced heater hose.

Hey Paul. Have you heard of anyone running some type of conduit to protect wires and cable in a off road vehicle? Eventually I am going to fully rewire my Bronco. I already have a 1989 351w complete wire harness and computer to replace the 1986 302 harness and computer. I plan to simplify the under hood wiring. The Batteries are going in the back where they have been since I did the fiberglass up front a long time ago.

Conduit is rare and only found on not very respected other forums. I think black poly plastic or even PVC pipe would be just to much effort for the real protection gained. My choice if split loom is quick an acceptable if it meets aesthetic views.
The most important, In my technical assessment is route the fat wires where they are out of harm.
So, for under the hood dress the fat wires up to the top of the firewall then down to the frame on the drivers side to avoid exhaust heat. Then along the frame where bouncing rocks will miss the wires. No protection under the hood and yes protection along the frame. My wires go to the front & rear bumper for my portable winch.
Having said all that --- The black poly pipe we use in Mexico and most states except CA would work and look pretty nice. For CA order the stuff on the web. 0.6 or 0.7'"od. The stuff comes in various wall thickness, Check the temp specs for the stuff first.
Dont forget about split heater hose for those places that are near sharp metal corners. And lots of zip ties Ha.

Thanks...

Bumping this from the dead..
does anyone have a good write up, on how they moved their battery to the rear cargo area. Even a crappy sketch would would work. Getting ready to tackle this task.


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If my memory serves me correctly the main (+) lead runs to the starter. I just ran it from the starter, through the firewall down the side of the cab to the battery in the rear. For the (-) I welded a bolt to the c-pillar cage tube next to the battery. This set up is pretty simple. I have a battery switch that will be added to the center console eventually.


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cs_drums wrote:If my memory serves me correctly the main (+) lead runs to the starter. I just ran it from the starter, through the firewall down the side of the cab to the battery in the rear. For the (-) I welded a bolt to the c-pillar cage tube next to the battery. This set up is pretty simple. I have a battery switch that will be added to the center console eventually.


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Do you still have the same, 760 number?


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Andy, you hardly need more than this thread. The positive lead is extended to the switch, then that lead is extended to the new batt location. At the new batt location a simple bolt will provide a local ground. If you have two batts then two leads go from the switch to each batt. The rest if pretty well describes in the previous posts. Study your stock connections. Don't mess with the starter cable. Just duplicate the factory connection to the relay. This is done by bolted lug to lug connection where you make the pos connection to your new cable. Use 3/8 lugs and if you do not know how to attach lug to the electric cable let a pro do it at the solar battery shop. Bolt lugs to lugs with a 3/8" bolt and cover it with lots of electrical tape. All the new cable ends will use the 3/8" lugs. At the batt terminal there are several solutions. Check the auto stores and choose one that can be bolted cable to the batt fitting. Like cable lug to batt fitting with a bolt.

I wanna leave my starter solenoid where it’s mounted. Do I need to run the rest of these wires to the rear?



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No you don't pm sent

Andy,
One wire goes to the rear. All the others stay in place. Beware, you already have a very non stock battery connection. Go find a Bronco that is stock and take notes and pictures especially the batt connection and the relay. What you have at the batt is going to be discarded and replaced like my previous post about lugs.
Your questions are good keep them coming.

Thank you!
I’m very new to this wiring dealio!
Will I need a Distribution block?. In order to run a Race Radio and GPS?


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Yes, GPS and race radio need +12 all the time.
I might suggest a 6 position Bussman fuse block (auto store). The tap into the fat wire near the steering column for a +12 always on to feed the Bussman. (Strip & solder and tape up completely and label). Not a pure solution because the the radio likes to have power directly from the battery. So if you want a pure solution then you will need a feed to the new fuse block from your new fat wire. Not easy at the new switch, but a waterproof equivalent of the Bussman in the engine compartment neat the lug splice would work. Then you will need a feed thru the firewall to the new Bussman under the dash. its obvious why the pure solution is to much work for little gain in performance. All my rigs tap the fat +12 wire under the dash for an extra Bussman.
BTW, the best place for the batt switch is under the driver seat what the feed to the switch from underneath is possible and easy. Never in or on the console. Console mount is best used for a full up racer where it is handy. They usually run their fat wire out back inside the cab. Operate the switch by feel once you memorize the 4 positions.

I wouldn’t ever run those stereo shop battery terminals. Nice looking but I’d only use the military style battery terminals if you want to completely eliminate battery connection issues.