C clip eliminator d44 issues

[BDKW1]

Seal and bearing for that side are different.

[1Hondalover]

Still can't get my head around this but read this by Baja Chris elsewhere:

Nobody mentioned that 1980-1982 D44 and D50 ttb had a different stub axle retaining method that does not use a c-clip. The early ttb has a collar pressed onto the axle to retain the bearing and seal then the stub axle assembly is bolted onto the side of the third member with a plate ring and 3 external bolts.

These early ttb setups allow you to swap out the inside stub axles in the field without removing the 3rd member from the pivot housing. This old style 3rd member also makes swapping in the (early style) d50 stub axle into the d44 diff a simple affair. And this early style will accept any of the d44 traction adders (diffs) since it's a non c-clip design.

Set aside the D50 parts, has anyone ever changed their D44 c-clip to bolt-on? Does anyone have pictures of each to post so I can see the difference?

[VintageIronFab]

This is my question as well to some degree -- sure the 80-82 Dana 44 TTB center section is the way to go without question....BUT for the guy that has a say Dana 44 TTB with 4.56 gears and a limited slip and a drop bracket lift there has to be an "ugly sister" solution. I installed the collar and echo spring shown in the link I posted up that the guy used from the Explorer. It genuinely fits nice-- how I did it was at full droop installed the spring and collar tight-- with the coil spring removed from the coil bucket I cycled the suspension and I could hear the echo spring move the collar ever so much-- but thats what the spring is for to keep tension. For full disclosure I haven't put any miles on it yet. To me if it allows me to have 4WD, and doesn't leak then its a win-win for me. If not then I go and find an 80-82 Dana 44 which I probably will anyway. To completely discard the idea without some miles on it is pretty closed minded but thats just me.

[yikes]

Does anyone have pictures of each to post so I can see the difference?

I'll take a picture of my housing when I get a chance.

[1Hondalover]

Did quite a bit of study yesterday and finallly found some pictures that put the words to understanding. From an old Four Wheeler article about beefing a Bronco:

Moving to the front, we removed the brake and hub assemblies from the TTB suspension. We then pulled the axles and removed the housing from the TTB swing arms. Because this particular Bronco has long-travel suspension, there were concerns about the C-clip axle on the short side pulling out of the differential at full droop. It turns out that in the early '80s, Ford offered a front limited-slip differential as an option, and it came with a housing that secures the axle externally, which was preferred for our application. These housings are getting harder to find.....here you can see the difference between the two styles of housings.

The difference in the c-clip vs. bolt-in third member housings:

D44 TTB c-clip vs bolt-on third member.jpg (54.18 KiB) Viewed 3925 times

The difference in the c-clip vs. bolt-in right side axle stub:

D44 TTB c-clip vs bolt-on right side axle stub.jpg (43.06 KiB) Viewed 3925 times

Now I get it.....finally!

[-JD5353-]

At what point does this need to be adressed? Does it have to do with running a limited slip or is it just because of travel.

[BDKW1]

At what point does this need to be adressed? Does it have to do with running a limited slip or is it just because of travel.

They are much sturdier than the C-clip ones. Longtravel puts a lot more angle on the center U-joint. This puts a lot more side loading on the stub axle. The tapered bearing will live much longer under these abusive conditions. Also, if you need to replace the center U-joint, you don't have to pull the pumpkin.

[PaulW]

At what point does this need to be addressed? Does it have to do with running a limited slip or is it just because of travel.

======
You do not have to do it. Inside the pumpkin it is all the same at least up to 4.56.
Any old setup will work fine.
Use of a bolted pumpkin so when you break the crossover joint you can replace the axle without removing the 3rd member.
You can wait for the damage then switch over. Easy diy to change the joints with the bolted diff.

Yes, crossover joints do not last very long with lots of travel even if the joint is machined for relief. And I still wore out that bearing.
Face up to the fact that those joints are the weak link they come with c-clips instead of circle clips. We weld the caps.

[Rmc]

So what's the spring trick reguarding then? Only d35 c clip elimination? And are the stub lengths the same between the 2 or would axel lengths need to be re measured when swapping to the bolt on type?

[PaulW]

So what's the spring trick reguarding then? Only d35 c clip elimination? And are the stub lengths the same between the 2 or would axel lengths need to be re measured when swapping to the bolt on type?

===
Axles are interchangeable.
Springs are used by some who do not know about the bolted diff.
Cap on the axle has to be welded and the spring choice is problematic.
Read from others and find out many use the wrong one and there are many choices.
If you go that way be sure to cycle the thing to see if the spring works. I could bind and could have to low of a rate.
Why fight just get a bolted diff and never look back.

[Wrightracing.net]

Hey Paul,
Is there any issue running 4.88 gears on a bolt on setup?

[Rmc]

So what's the spring trick reguarding then? Only d35 c clip elimination? And are the stub lengths the same between the 2 or would axel lengths need to be re measured when swapping to the bolt on type?

===
Axles are interchangeable.
Springs are used by some who do not know about the bolted diff.
Cap on the axle has to be welded and the spring choice is problematic.
Read from others and find out many use the wrong one and there are many choices.
If you go that way be sure to cycle the thing to see if the spring works. I could bind and could have to low of a rate.
Why fight just get a bolted diff and never look back.

I want to thank you guys for posting clarification. Makes alot more sence to me now as well.

[VintageIronFab]

Ok now I am confused and I thought I understood the reasoning for the "spring trick". For me I was understanding that the "spring trick" was used because the 83-96 Dana 44 TTB would not allow a gear change without the gears or the differential (not the housing) needing some machining so the C-clip could be installed. This is the only reason I thought and installed the "spring-trick" on my 96 was because I swapped to a 4.56. Dammit say it ain't so!!

[hobbyturnedobsession]

The spider gear on a track lock (passenger side) has to be milled down a bit. SWP did it to mine so the c clip would work.

[1Hondalover]

Sometimes a guy really wants certain parts for his Bronco. I've been chasing this bolt-on axle show for too long and could only find scattered parts. What else to do?



Buy a whole 1981 Bronco and take the entire original setup!

IMG_3853 (Medium).JPG (289.27 KiB) Viewed 3821 times

Greasy little sucker but all original and totally unmolested.

IMG_3863 (Medium).JPG (143.03 KiB) Viewed 3821 times

[BDKW1]

Nice!

[Wrightracing.net]

That's what I did when I wanted a 351w. Paid $400 + Bic lighter to a tweeker. Then parted out and in the end I made money. Got a full wire harness and 351w to replace the 302. Then took the body to the scrap yard got more $.

I need to get a Limited slip and 4.88 gears for my Bronco so I will probably get a bolt on style from Bronco Graveyard new- complete, ready to install.

[1Hondalover]

I talked to Jeff's and they have third members ready to go but nothing else including the yoke shafts for the bolt-on version. Hope you have better luck than I did.

[Wrightracing.net]

I would assume a new bolt on axle is made by someone. The rest should be the same.

[PaulW]

Axles you want are for the vintage trucks. You would be very lucky to find any for sale outside of a junk yerd..
Why are you looking for a 3rd member? Any 3rd member will fit on a C clip or a bolted housing. And any axle will fit either.

For sure you are heading for a proper TTB solution. Here is how.
Go the junk yards that have old ford trucks Broncos F250, & F350 for models in the 1080 time frame. Dont try to figure out the year just look for the bolts on the housing beside the axle. Get the whole front TTB housing with axles, & 3rd member and you will have what you need. You probably will have to hit several yards to find what you want.
While you at the yard collect a couple of extra passenger side axles . Its a 2 piece affair and you will have to use brute force to get the thing out of the bolted axles because the bearing on the inner axleto housing is a tight fit. We get then out by improvising a slide hammer to knock them out.
I hope this clarified what has to be done. Now you know why the getto fix with a spring in the slip joint is popular. Its a crappy way to improvise and actually works sometimes.
PaulW