Cheap and effective ways to lower automatic trans temps

[magic carpet XLT]

i know there are a ton of tricks to do this, and right now i'm too cheap to buy a gauge so no way to determine how effective any mods are.

question 1: exhaust wrap. is this worth spending the ~$50 on? the exhaust is routed very close to the trans and cooler lines on these trucks, and the times when trans heat would get highest are also when exhaust heat gets the highest too. essentially baking the trans sitting right next to it.

question 2: cooling fins on a stock trans pan. i don't see any point to spending a ton of money on an aftermarket pan when i could just weld some fins made of ~1" flat bar to the bottom of mine. worth finding a junker pan and trying out? added benefit: stronger pan

question 3: i have a couple coolers laying around. right now i have one big (20x12x3/4")tube and fin cooler on the bronco, another close to the same size on my pickup and a large (16x10x1 1/4") stacked plate off a late model van sitting in my garage. the question is would it be worth throwing the single stacked plate in, or should i run dual tube and fin coolers (lower pressure loss?) i'm not a fan of how you have to mount tube and fin coolers, and having dual coolers seems like more to go wrong. i have had the plastic zippys break and almost lost a cooler in mexico which is not something i would like to revisit

interested on the thoughts from the peanut gallery

[PaulW]

i know there are a ton of tricks to do this, and right now i'm too cheap to buy a gauge so no way to determine how effective any mods are.

question 1: exhaust wrap. .....

question 2: cooling fins on a stock trans pan. ......
question 3: i have a couple coolers laying around. .....

interested on the thoughts from the peanut gallery

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1) You won't be able to detect any change.
2) Ditto same as adding a deeper pan. No change.
3) Extra coolers work fine. Dual is required for the desert sand washes.
I run the stock trailer plate cooler in series with the biggest B&M blower plate cooler that will fit. For my application even 2 blower coolers would be better. This setup is the last of 4 previous tries and finally solves the heat issue.
Tips: Bypass the rad cooler. Plate cooler for trannys & engine, tube cooler for power steering.
Shock mount the coolers. The rubber ones VW use are good. Aircraft ones are equall but$$. Study how Ford mounts coolers and copy. They use either flexy straps and/or rubber mounts. No hard lines for off road. Learn how to bead the metal tube the rubber lines connect to. Buy a harbor Freight IR thermometer to check yuou result. JY Ford 460 engine or tranny coolers are great. Flush them and pressure test then install. Be sure to get the hard lines so you will have the correct fittings.

PW

[philofab]

Biggest things you can do to an E4OD (from a guy with 190K on a stock FORD trans)...

Larger tubing for cooling lines, holds more fluid and is a restriction stock. $200 or so including tools
Spin on Wix fluid power filter. Adds 1qt or more fluid and keeps it clean. $100
More coolers or convert A/C condenser to be a cooler. $40-150
Shift kit to improve line pressures and reduce slippage. $90-$280

None of these prices include labor, just what your likely to spend in hoses, parts, fittings, and hardware.

Exhaust wrap will eventually destroy your exhaust, stainless steel heat shields would be better.

Cooling fins normally need to be aluminum to dissipate heat and surface area is a plus. I don't know how well your idea would work.

[magic carpet XLT]

good info, maybe i'm jsut over thinking this one. i've already bypassed the rad cooler, used the stock small plate tranny cooler for a power steering cooler and a large tube and fin like i said. i believe the trans already has a shift kit, but not 100% sure as it came to me the way it is but shifts very firm and selecting 2 always gets 2nd gear no matter what. it is a C6 not an E4OD so it seems to handle heat a little better. the power steering never over heats, or even really gets hot that i can tell.

paul, i see 2 large plate coolers which i assume are for tranny and the smaller tube one is for the steering?

it sounds like adding an external filter is the best thing to do right now, and seeing as how its due for a service, the most practical as well.

[PaulW]

good info, maybe i'm jsut over thinking this one. i've already bypassed the rad cooler, used the stock small plate tranny cooler for a power steering cooler and a large tube and fin like i said. i believe the trans already has a shift kit, but not 100% sure as it came to me the way it is but shifts very firm and selecting 2 always gets 2nd gear no matter what. it is a C6 not an E4OD so it seems to handle heat a little better. the power steering never over heats, or even really gets hot that i can tell.

paul, i see 2 large plate coolers which i assume are for tranny and the smaller tube one is for the steering?
==== correct===
it sounds like adding an external filter is the best thing to do right now, and seeing as how its due for a service, the most practical as well.

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BTW the c6 runs hotter than the e4od. especially with the 95 & 96. Ford really got it all together in the late e4ods and later trannys. The c6 is slipping all the time. no lockup.
With all this talk about tranny heat if one has a lockup converter add a manual switch for those blasts up the sand wash and find the temp stays low. Got a c6/4 you better have t2 blower coolers and a gauge.
Just facts proven in the desert.
External filter ???? what for? It sure wont help a hot tranny. For service replace the internal filter/fluid per Ford schedule using Ford or NAPA parts.
PW

[magic carpet XLT]

i just say external filter for the slight extra capacity and ease of maintenance it would add. it sure does suck that the convertor doesn't lock up, i can feel it sucking power and making heat all the time pushing my big marshmallow tires.

what are you referring to by a blower cooler. you mean one with an external fan?

[Jasonj105]

I pulled all the A/C out of my Bronco, but I still have the stock radiator. What if you flushed the condensor section of the radiator and used it as a trans cooler? Would it work?

[philofab]

I pulled all the A/C out of my Bronco, but I still have the stock radiator. What if you flushed the condensor section of the radiator and used it as a trans cooler? Would it work?

I've heard of people doing that before. FYI, it is nearly impossible to get all the crap out of one of those after a compressor has had black death. I would add a filter between the output of the condenser and the inlet of the trans.

[billy1911]

Spin on Wix fluid power filter. Adds 1qt or more fluid and keeps it clean. $100

I did this and its easier to services the trans.

[Rednek Renegade]

If you are feeling reeeealy good about your fab skills you can make an attempt at something like this.



Just another way to get "cool" air to the fluid

[PaulW]

Spin on Wix fluid power filter. Adds 1qt or more fluid and keeps it clean. $100

I did this and its easier to services the trans.

=========
Agree about the extra fluid and its nice to have when the tranny destructs by keeping jumk out of the coolers.
Please be sure an drop the pan and change the internal filter and clean the magnet. Then look for any abnormalities in the junk in the bottom of the pan. While you are at it add the B&M screw in drain plug. If you do not believe my words then more homework is necessary. Sorry.
Do you need instruction for fluid change (not exchange)?
PW

[miesk5]

yo gang!
I've been looking at this heat sit. for a few years; collected some info - here is most of it for you to consider;
E4OD;
DTC 62, 628 & 1744 Converter Overheat, High Line Pressure; "...E4OD/4R100 transmissions often have problems with converter overheat, codes 62, 628, 1744, high line pressure and low cooler. The OEM valve can close off critical converter/cooler circuit under high-demand situations, causing the TCC to drag on and glaze the lining at idle, or restricting converter/cooler charge during high load causing converter slip codes, overheat and lube failures. flow. Sonnax now offers an upgraded line-to-lube pressure regulator valve 36424-04K with a patented internal line-to-lube passage with anti-drainback check valve, and a revised balance-end orifice. While drilling the pump casting will allow full-time flow to the cooler circuit, it is not precise and allows converter drainback, causing delayed engagements complaints. A revised balance end orifice is built into the valve and ensures sufficient oil is fed to the end of the PR valve to keep the valve in the proper regulating position and further preventing converter/ cooler flow restrictions. This is a drop in replacement that requires no machining..."
Source: by sonnaflow.com
http://www.sonnaflow.com/announcements/36424-04K.pdf
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Torque Converter Overheating Failure
A common complaint on E4OD’s is converter overheating/failure and burned fluid with no other internal damage. This may be the original complaint or a repeat failure. There are several possible causes for these failures – all of them repairable;
Some Excerpts;
Verify TCC functions properly before releasing vehicle. If Lock-up fails to function correctly take the time to test/repair faults to restore normal operation and protect the transmission and converter from overheating,
Coolers – Some shops are reporting coolers (in the radiators) that apparently collapse internally when hot. The result is sufficient cooler flow when cold, but an extreme drop in flow Hot. Take the time to check cooler flow when Hot. One quart in 20 seconds at idle is OK. Some shops are installing auxiliary coolers on vehicles that carry heavy loads to insure sufficient cooling capacity.
Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org
http://web.archive.org/web/200402242333 ... ll_160.htm
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Overheating, Burnt Fluid Converter Clutch Discoloration, Forward Clutch Wear, Excessive Bushing Wear - Low One-Way Clutch Malfunction TSB 94-23-18 for 89-94 Bronco, Vans & F Series
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497fa ... 942318.pdf
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Will post some more if Comcast will be able to offer better cable maintenance...whenver it rains or snows or have higher than 25 MPH winds. the conn speeds drop to 1992 dial-up

[miesk5]

Before I give up on with this Comcast nonsense and shut-down for da night; one more..
Filter, In-Line TSB 00-23-10 by Ford for 89-96 Bronco & F Series, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
Contamination from prior transmission concerns or excess wear may be trapped in the transmission fluid cooling system. This debris must be removed by properly cleaning the transmission cooling system. After cleaning, some contamination may still remain. The remaining contamination may be reintroduced into the fluid cooling system of a repaired/replaced transmission causing premature or repeat failures....
Some EXCERPTS:
VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OIL-TO-AIR (OTA) FLUID COOLERS CANNOT BE PROPERLY FLUSHED.
FOR ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OTA COOLERS THE OTA COOLER MUST BE REPLACED ON EVERY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE SERVICE/WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR PROCEDURE.
Once the fluid cooling system has been cleaned, flushed and backflushed, connect the cooler lines and perform the transmission fluid flow test to ensure proper fluid flow. Refer to the appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for procedure.
Only after proper transmission fluid flow volume is present, install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA). Follow the instructions provided with the kit.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497fa ... 002310.pdf