Some observations and questions of mine

[Conejoracer]

Sine this forum is quiet lately, I thought I would post some observations and questions.

1. My 92 Bronco is stripped, no interior (except a bench seat and dash), no top, no tailgate, and 275K miles. It has been plagued with major B-pillar rattles. I discovered that there is a piece of metal that is spot welded to the inner bed panel just below the point that the B-pillar runs into the bed. This metal part is mostly flat, and connected only by the spot welds and some sealant. The outer part is against the bed side, and has a gasket of sorts. It seems that on my truck, the gaskets were hammered and the bedsides were rattling against this piece of metal. I tried various ways of resealing and cushioning to eliminate the rattle, to no avail. As my truck is a total piece of shit, I drilled out the spot welds, and chiseled the SOB's out. No more rattles! Since this metal part is not secured to the bed, I do not think it really braces it. I think it's only purpose is to seal off the upper part of the cab, at the B-pillar. Has anybody else dealt with this, or currently suffering with it?

2. Despite doing all the tune up stuff, headers, free flowing exhaust, etc. The Bronco was never "faster." The exhaust under heavy load had an odd whooshing sound, and the truck ran hot up hills. I had neglected to change the fuel filter. It was a pain in the ass. I have the correct tool, but there was not enough tube on the fuel filter to get the tool on. It turns out that someone had previously installed the wrong filter. I hacksawed the tubes off the fuel filter, then used the tool to get the cut off stubs released from the fuel lines. After installing the correct filter, WOW. The Bronco hauls the mail (5.8/E4OD), the exhaust is throaty, no more whoosh noises. It does not get hot on hills either. Im guessing the old filter was clogged, or perhaps did not flow enough fuel since it was not the correct part, thus creating a very lean condition. Either way, it made me very happy.

3. I'm running 2" Eibach springs in the front, and stock rear springs with the yellow stock replacement Bilsteins. I have the extended Rancho arms on the front, and thats about it. Since my bronco is really stripped down, no a/c, no heat, everything removed that it does not need, and the battery behind the seat, the front is closer to 3" of lift. The Bilsteins are pretty much topped out at ride height. If I were to go with the 4" lift 5100's, what type of bumpstop spacer should I use? Does anyone have a specific height measurement? On the rear, it kicks like a mule. I need to get the short body 7100's valved for a Bronco, of that I'm sure. Does anyone know how much longer Keifer's shackles are? I need to lower the back, despite the 3" front lift, the back is still high due to all the weight removed from the Bronco. I'm also looking at ditching the stock shim/block, and going with just a shim. Does anybody know offhand what degree the factory part is? I figure I can drop the back a good inch by just using the standard thin shims and some new shorter u-bolts.

Thats about it, sorry for the ramble. I really like this forum, and thought I'd throw something out in hopes of stirring up some activity!

[hobbyturnedobsession]

In regards to the front, your best bet is to find the compressed length of the 4" bilstein and cycle your suspension. I have the bump spacers for the 4" lift and I can take the measurements when I get home though, but that maybe close, or way off. Good to hear its running good now! I know mine is running a little warmer than I want and found that my timing is 12 degrees btdc so I think that may be my issue. Same problem different fix. Its running lean. Also, with the rear I think a 2 degree shim is all you need. That will help with axle wrap and not to mention, I've snapped the damn nipple on the stock shims and broke my driveline. I think that is definately your best option.

[RSR]

I saw an ad recently where Bilstein was making stock replacement reservoir shocks similar to the short body shocks. Basically you get stock collapsed length but longer stroke than stock because the gas/oil divider piston is in the reservoir instead in the shock. Might be worth a look.