GoFastBroncos.com

Posted: **Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:05 pm**

I just made new lines. That relay box should be easy to remove. Probably one relay for each turn signal, one for running lights, and
one for battery charge.

Posted: **Sat Jun 14, 2014 6:22 pm**

How are the pins/wires pulled from the firewall connector or did you guys just cut them off?

Posted: **Sat Jun 14, 2014 6:39 pm**

There was nothing that I needed to remove at the firewall. Everything was at the fuse box and at the junction where the harness splits for the ABS controller plug.

Posted: **Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:52 pm**

I did remove a few wires from the firewall. I just jut them off capped and shrink wrap

Posted: **Sat Jun 14, 2014 11:19 pm**

philofab wrote:There was nothing that I needed to remove at the firewall. Everything was at the fuse box and at the junction where the harness splits for the ABS controller plug.

I believe they were 30/31/32 had to come out of the firewall. I figured out how to get them out.

5 hour job not including brake line re plumbing from scratch. Gotta compile a list of fittings.

Posted: **Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:33 am**

Yeah well worth it in my opinion.

Posted: **Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:01 pm**

Can I take the lines that are running off the master cylinder, and just run them to a splitter and to each wheel, bypassing the abs device that is on the frame by the steering box? Or will it have an electrical coniption fit?

This is a 95 bronc btw.

Also I have an 88 f-250 donor vehicle, it looks like it has a way bigger master cylinder, with that bad boy swap right in?

Posted: **Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:02 pm**

One more question, at this point, I should be able to remove all the abs related electronics, and sensors, correct?

Posted: **Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:06 pm**

There are several threads that go over this. Do as search.

The jist of ot is you need to jump 2 vss wires the you can ditch the computer. The next step is to get rid of all the wiring and relays.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2017 7:17 am**

So basically you cut wire #14 and attach it to # 21 - #21 stays attached to that plug I am presuming - do the with #39 and attach it to #22 and leave #22 connected to the computer plug. That technically disables /bypasses everything - then just go through and pull the wiring out which should just slowly all come out in 1 piece?? I'm glossing over the obvious hardline differences.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:05 am**

Is there a way to put the abs on a switch to turn it on and off?

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2017 11:29 am**

Of course. As soon as I bought my bronco I put the switch in. Use the owners manual to locate the ABS fuse and run 2 wires to the dash switch where you want it. In the engine side fuse box you have the 2 wired connections in place of the fuse and you put an in-line fuse same amps as stock on the hot side of your new wire.
Operation is as soon as you hot the dirt switch off the ABS with your new switch. Verified by the ABS light on the dash. When you hit the highway and want to activate. Turn off the switch and then when you RESTART the engine it will be back to stock.

Posted: **Wed Jan 18, 2017 8:13 pm**

So simple. Do you have to do anything with the VSS wire?

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:21 am**

No ABS is stand alone

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:35 am**

miesk5 wrote:yo,
Here is the ABS Sensor (also called Rear Axle Sesnor, VSS or Differential Speed Sensor (DSS)) Speed Input Signal to PSOM and PCM/CC/ and so on BY-PASS at 4WABS Module Connector in 93-96 Bronco;

jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y) to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK)

& 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB) to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)

Pic Source: by Turbo Ghost at photobucket.com
MIESK5 NOTE; I did this on our 96; The 4WABS Controller was toasted; 2 yard Controller's were also bad; NO RETURNS!

You can split harness covering and pull it back at da conn.
Cut each wire about 3 inches from da conn & splice em or solder together; this way, the sys can be restored ezily, if needed.
A pal used jumpers w/correct size pins to jumper the conn and secured it all w/zip ties and harness tape.

Anyone eoffroader@aim.com this and it still sometimes shifts hard from 1st to2nd and the speedo bounces until it hits 30 mph

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:35 am**

Anyone do this

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:40 am**

Yeah, I did it and removed all the additional un used wiring,relays etc

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 4:06 pm**

So I have to remove all of the wiring to make it always shift correctly

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 5:58 pm**

If you just remove the ABS fuse from its circuit nothing else is affected. The trans will shift the same as before. Speedo will not be affected and will read correctly as before. All that happens is you defeat the ABS. No other wiring changes are required.
If you remove all the ABS pump and its associate stuff then follow the lead of others that have done that.
My comments just apply to ABS defeat not removal. Sorry if I confused anyone.
BTW. I cannot imagine why anyone would remove all that stuff? It only amounts to a bit of dead weight when using the defeat setup I describe.
However, the removal details results in a pretty interesting project.

Posted: **Tue Jun 13, 2017 6:38 pm**

Does anyone know if the F150 abs different from the Bronco on a 95 year? I had the RABS module on the frame I unbolted and I'm missing the pump and line and such like my 96 bronco has. I'm just doing a wiring harness swap from a 5.0 MAF truck on my 5.8 and there's an oddball plug that I can't seem to figure out.

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