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This is the red piece I was referring to, the green circles show the location of the tabs that hold it in place. This is post red-piece removal Thin flatblade to deflect the little black tab holding the terminal in place. The little black tab (circled green) that I'm moving with the flatblade to enable wire removal. ...I think I need to buy myself a real digital camera for xmas.

Made some more progress this evenin':

I was able to remove the rest of the circuit 523 O/Y wiring and the Hydraulic Control Unit connector. From S150->S119 and then out to 3 locations: one end of the diode in the Trailer Relay Box (skinny box) and one of the terminals on the 4WABS Relay #1 in the Trailer Relay Box (skinny box) as well as one of the terminals on the 4WABS Relay #2 located in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box (fat box).

The red piece that retains the terminals in the Trailer Relay Box is retained from the underside and must be taken out before any terminals can be removed from it.

After that I removed the circuit 599 PK/LG wire running from 4WABS Control Module connector to the 4WABS Relay #1 in the Trailer Relay Box. I left in place, for now, the circuit 537 T/Y wire running from 4WABS Relay #1 in the Trailer Relay Box to Fuse B in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box.

I also unhooked the circuit 601 LB/PK wire from both the 4WABS Relay #1 in the Trailer Relay Box and the 4WABS Control Module connector
but haven't decided how best to deal with where it meets with several other power wires at Splice 105. I'm thinking I'll cut and cap/insulate both the LB/PK wires coming out of that splice and bury it back in the loom.

I also removed the circuit 533 T/R wire from the 4WABS Relay #2 located in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box. Now, the only thing keeping me from removing the Pump Motor Connector is deciding what to with the remaining circuit 57 ground wire that comes from a body ground [G101] somewhere I haven't yet traced, possibly somewhere pas. side.

For now I'm leaving the male side wires hooked up to C107M (3rd picture below) because quite a bit of loom unwrapping is required to remove the rest of those two wires all the way up the 4WABS Control Module connector.

Changed my mind and took those two wires all the way out from C107M (pass side.) across the front of the truck up the the 4WABS Control Module connector.

That's where I'm at currently, and there's not too much left.

I've not yet gone as far as unwrapping the loom up to the firewall connector [C202] so I still have yet to take out the three wires going to the Acceleration Sensor. I plan to remove circuit 886 O/BK , circuit 887 Y , and 836 O/W up to C202, figuring that my 92 won't have the wiring for the acceleration sensor inside the cab anyways.

I also haven't unwrapped enough loom yet to remove the wiring going to the 4WABS Data Link Connector. Once I'm free up to C202 I plan to take out the 4WABS Data Link Connector with the following procedure:
Cut the Circuit 57 ground wire at Splice 107, disconnect three wires from the 4WABS Control Module connector (Circuit 603 DG , Circuit 606 W/LB , Circuit 960 BK/LB), and disconnect the two other circuit 603 DG wires that come out of Splice 120 (one at the C202 firewall connector, the other at the other end of the diode in the Trailer Relay Box).

Not sure whether disconnecting this DG wire at the firewall connector before it hits the ABS Indicator light will cause it stay on or off, nor do I really care (though it'd be nice if it'd stay off). I have a RABS indicator light in my 92, which I'm not positive is on the same circuit as a 95 yet. Guess I'll find out someday.

monkei wrote:I have a RABS indicator light in my 92, which I'm not positive is on the same circuit as a 95 yet. Guess I'll find out someday.

When I swapped clusters to an older one so I had a tach the "ABS" light was replaced by a "REAR ABS" light. Should be the same circuit.

Should be the same circuit.

Thanks for the confirmation!

Whew. It's all out!! Only ended up having to cut a few wires because they came outta' splices to other stuff. The speed signal is now routed straight from RABS->PSOM!

The 4WABS Hydraulic Unit connector came out with Splice 150 and Splice 119. These two splices are both part of circuit 532. There's a ton o' O/Y wires and it goes a bit like this going from pins at connectors to splices andfinally to relays & a diode: Two 4WABS Hydyaulic Unit wires (pins#1 & #4) and 4WABS Control Module pin # 17 converge at Splice 150 and meet up with another 3 O/Y wires at Splice 119: one from a terminal on 4WABS relay #2 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box at Splice, another from a terminal on 4WABS Relay #1 in the Trailer Relay box, and the final O/Y wire coming from the "bottom" end of the diode in the Trailer Relay box.

The PK/LG Circuit 599 wire shown goes from 4WABS Control Module pin #19 to 4WABS Relay #1 in the Trailer Relay Box.
The remaining 6 wires on the 4WABS Hydraulic Unit connector C121 go straight to the 4WABS Control Module [T/R Circuit 510:C121 pin#2->4WABS Control Module pin #27 , GY/BK Circuit 499:C121 pin#3->4WABS Control Module pin #33 , W Circuit 497:C121 pin#5->4WABS Control Module pin #34 , O Circuit 496:C121 pin#6->4WABS Control Module pin #26, T Circuit 495:C121 pin#7->4WABS Control Module pin #40]

Hopefully all this labeling and explaining will help someone get this stuff out a lot faster than I did. My last pic will be the wrapped and done harness in the area where the 4WABS module would be.

woohoo, done!

Haha! Wooo! My head is spinning. Great pictorial Monkei. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Wow!

No prob! Was a good chance for me to get more familiar with ford wiring in general. Now I feel all inspired to go removing/adding more stuff. It'd be nice to ditch the non-important cruise control wiring and add in the compass/outside temp sensor and interior overhead console...

I need to do the same thing on mine. I cut the abs plug off and lost it. Whitch wires do I splice together? What color goes to what?

Broncos4Baja wrote:I need to do the same thing on mine. I cut the abs plug off and lost it. Whitch wires do I splice together? What color goes to what?

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Not sure you want to build a rig like Brian is building.
Get missing stuff from the junk yard.
Your Shop CD will give you the wiring diagram.
PaulW

Jumped the wires, everything works! Thanks for the great info and pics.

Glad it helped!

PaulW wrote:
Not sure you want to build a rig like Brian is building...

PaulW

Not sure how to take that.

yikes wrote:

PaulW wrote:
Not sure you want to build a rig like Brian is building...

PaulW

Not sure how to take that.

Take it like a man.

yikes wrote:

PaulW wrote:
Not sure you want to build a rig like Brian is building...

PaulW

Not sure how to take that.

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No disrespect but a racer like you said you are working toward is a far cry from a rig that a guy just wants to get rid of his percieved extras.
Custom wiring is a thing best left to the very serious builders. Sure I do a lot of that, but I leave the factory stuff in place. I am pretty grumpy about deleting the brake res liquid level switch. One of my screwups that I have not found a fix for. 4 wires - gees - some fancy switch.
PaulW

Wondering if anybody has a write up on removing the complete abs system on a 96 bronco? Also will the be an issue with state smog rules?
thanks.

Funny you should bring this up... I'm planning an entire delete. Already got all the specs for 16" CNC pedal with dual bore setup from Baja Mike at Kartek. Went down there, held it, talked it over a bit. Probably buy it this week. Last night, i almost started a similar thread.

Threads merged.