GoFastBroncos.com

killahit89 wrote:Hi I have a 1976 f 100 and I was wondering if I could get some insight into maybe swapping a solid front axle for a twin traction beam system from a bronco. This seemed like the best place to get information like this because I havent found it elsewhere. I'm wondering, is this an achievable goal or not I would appreciate any feedback thank you go fast broncos.

What exactly are you looking to do? Cab swap may be a bit easier than putting the TTB under the 70's frame, but wither takes a bit of work.

No I was your first reply was very helpful

killahit89 wrote:No I was your first reply was very helpful

All of the 80-96 TTB 1/2 trucks and Broncos have identical measurements as far as pivot locations and width.

Did the Bronco or F150 D44 TTB ever have the option of taller pivot brackets like the Ranger did (D35 TTB)?

No high rider brackets on full sizes. If they do exist I have never seen them.

I would say the same thing. Never even heard of any.

Thanks. Had a 93 Ranger 4x4 STX that had taller factory pivot brackets, factory lift kit.

yup. Know the STX stuff. It's semi sought after now. Never seen or heard of a full size with something similar though.

philofab wrote:All of the 80-96 TTB 1/2 trucks and Broncos have identical measurements as far as pivot locations and width.

I guess you're the one to ask Philo......I have these beams, knuckles and spindles left over from the 1981 I stripped. The knuckles use pin-anchored brake calipers which I don't care for much, but do you have any opinion about the strength of these pieces vs. the newer models or are they all the same?

1Hondalover wrote:

philofab wrote:All of the 80-96 TTB 1/2 trucks and Broncos have identical measurements as far as pivot locations and width.

I guess you're the one to ask Philo......I have these beams, knuckles and spindles left over from the 1981 I stripped. The knuckles use pin-anchored brake calipers which I don't care for much, but do you have any opinion about the strength of these pieces vs. the newer models or are they all the same?

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I think the newer ones like 96 are a bolt on caliper. I know my Dana 50 ttb from a 96 are bolt on... Not sure about the 44 knuckles though

I don't think any of them are weak, Some guys stay away from newer knuckles claiming that five bolts is weaker than six but I have never seen evidence to support that.

Racers seem to prefer the knuckles that don't use bolts to retain the caliper because they claim the bolts backout. I think 87-94 ish all used the slide pin they like.

6 in one hand half dozen in the other. I drank the cool aid and changed my stuff all to 6 studs.

I assume the strength issue is minimal if any at all. I did backing plates because research says when the do break it the cast around the studs.

One thing to avoid are the 87-mid 88 hubs brakes and spindles. They are different than all other years and hard to find. The case was made that they are bigger and thus stronger. They are only an 1/8 bigger and if they are stronger, it has not been proven to be true. Just an FYI. I have had a couple friends run into a problem finding parts, so they converted to 86 style hub and brakes.

Lots of gooooood info here

Wrightracing.net wrote:One thing to avoid are the 87-mid 88 hubs brakes and spindles. They are different than all other years and hard to find. The case was made that they are bigger and thus stronger. They are only an 1/8 bigger and if they are stronger, it has not been proven to be true. Just an FYI. I have had a couple friends run into a problem finding parts, so they converted to 86 style hub and brakes.

Top hat hubs, love those things! They are stronger and more compact than the other style. They also allow for cheap aluminum hubs. Downside is no aftermarket hubs, all other parts easy to find.

I have seen them on late 87's to early 90's, typical Ford "use parts when you get them till they run" out regardless of model year.

Bumping an old thread.

Does anyone know how to determine the gear ratio of a set of Dana 44 TTB's?

with no tag..... do you know what it came out of?

Outside of removing it, counting the pinion teeth and the ring gear teeth count then dividing one into the other I do not.

jack up the front and turn the driveshaft by hand counting rotations until the tires make a full rotation. will get you close enough to then round off to the nearest common ratio.
if both fronts do not turn same direction and speed then drop one front on ground and just do it with one wheel in the air. result should be double so divide answer by 2.