To uniball or not
To uniball or not
I have c&t beams that are plated now. I was going to go with poly pivots, but now I am not sure. I was reading threads about changing to uniballs and trying to figure out if it was worth it to me. The truck is a daily driver; will the uniballs tighten up the play in the frontend a bunch and how much vibration will I end up with? Thanks for any input.
- philofab
- Basura Blanca
- Posts: 5643
- Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:37 am
- Bronco Info: A pile of crap.
- Location: Bullhead, AZ
- Contact:
Re: To uniball or not
You will only have vibration with uniballs if something is wrong, IE wheel bearing, unbalanced tire, broken axle, ect.
If you aren't going with a uniball, go with a rubber bushing instead of the urethane. The urethane binds and destroys itself quickly.
If you aren't going with a uniball, go with a rubber bushing instead of the urethane. The urethane binds and destroys itself quickly.
-
- Posts: 117
- Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 7:01 pm
- Bronco Info: 1988 F150 4x4 Short wheel base
Re: To uniball or not
I'm doing uniballs. They will be awesome!
Re: To uniball or not
philofab wrote:You will only have vibration with uniballs if something is wrong, IE wheel bearing, unbalanced tire, broken axle, ect.
If you aren't going with a uniball, go with a rubber bushing instead of the urethane. The urethane binds and destroys itself quickly.
I would assume that there would be good difference in the deflection (upgrading to the uniball) is that right? I am asking these questions cuz I am not going to be able to do it my self and I checked the thread on the install and I know it's not going to be a cheap upgrade.
-
- Posts: 2330
- Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 12:25 am
- Bronco Info: Bronco List:
- Location: Phoenix, AZ
Re: To uniball or not
I did the uniballs myself -- I personally think is worth while and pretty easy to install. I forget the cost but it wasn't that expensive for the parts. What kind of labor Cody are you looking at? I don't think there's more than 3 hours labor max to do it.
Re: To uniball or not
I was looking at your thread and if I have to pay somebody to mock it up check it, put it together tear it apart etc. Then that ends up being quite a bit more than just having beams built and I install them while rebuilding the front end.
-
- Posts: 1677
- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:45 am
- Bronco Info: 1996 EB 351W!! First Bronco!! Plan: Prerunner/ Trail Rig/ SHTF All around Rig
Re: To uniball or not
What size uni also do you guys order? I know they need to be machined down to fit in the stock pivots.
- motoxscott
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:32 am
- Bronco Info: 408 Prerunner
- Location: Huntington Beach, CA
- Contact:
Re: To uniball or not
You use a standard 1" wide series uniball (AIN-16T/AIB-16T) in a standard width cup that you machine down a bit on either side and use correctly sized spacers for a 9/16" bolt and the proper width to go into the factory mount. You can get the full kit from Richer Racing or Camburg ready to go.
- Scott
- Scott
Re: To uniball or not
====cbans wrote:philofab wrote:You will only have vibration with uniballs if something is wrong, IE wheel bearing, unbalanced tire, broken axle, ect.
If you aren't going with a uniball, go with a rubber bushing instead of the urethane. The urethane binds and destroys itself quickly.
I would assume that there would be good difference in the deflection (upgrading to the uniball) is that right? I am asking these questions cuz I am not going to be able to do it my self and I checked the thread on the install and I know it's not going to be a cheap upgrade.
I doubt if you will notice any difference between stock rubber and uniball
My rubber lasted about 8 years with heavy off road use in Baja and hardly any highway driving. Miles on the rubber was over 10k. Why bother with uniball until you wear out the rubber.?
Re: To uniball or not
I think the biggest advantage with uniballs is being able to push your beams forward an inch or so.
Re: To uniball or not
Gotta bring this back from the dead. I ordered uniballs from camburg. How are these things going last? I searched and didn't find anything.
- ESHALLBETTER
- Posts: 1588
- Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 8:49 am
- Bronco Info: 85 class 3, 70's somthing trail bronco.
- Location: Minneapolis, MN
To uniball or not
Race car parts take race car maintenance. It is going to depend entirely on how you use the truck though. They'll eventually wear out but I wouldn't base your decision on wear. You'll get a lot of use out of them, and they're not tough to replace when the time comes.
- Wrightracing.net
- Posts: 2225
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:58 pm
- Bronco Info: 1972 Bronco with an 86 chassis, full cage and Long travel coil-over suspension.
- Location: San Diego
- Contact:
To uniball or not
On daily drivers with heim joints and uniball's, the best way to make them last longer is to run dust covers on the uniball's and boots on the heim joints. They slow down the break down of the joint liner that is affected by sand, dirt and the elements when parked outside overtime.
-
- Posts: 1677
- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:45 am
- Bronco Info: 1996 EB 351W!! First Bronco!! Plan: Prerunner/ Trail Rig/ SHTF All around Rig
Re: To uniball or not
I think I remember reading a thread where all those do is trap dirt and lead to excess wear. Have you experienced anything similar with yours?
- Wrightracing.net
- Posts: 2225
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:58 pm
- Bronco Info: 1972 Bronco with an 86 chassis, full cage and Long travel coil-over suspension.
- Location: San Diego
- Contact:
Re: To uniball or not
My rig has more desert use than any pre-runner. Used on the crappy Baja roads on a weekly basis for 6 months every year for many years. Never had any need to service or replace any of the uniballs or rod ends. Lasting longer on the Baja roads than the stock setup. Bottom line is wear on the uniballs should not be a concern. No boots on mine.
Re: To uniball or not
Thanks for the replies. I am really looking forward to getting the parts in the bronco.