I've run the 704's in 17x8.5" with 37x12.50 tire. Stock width C&T coilover setup, they work well.

I bought the Autofab full motor mounts last year and they were definitely trigger welded. It made me scratch my head, but I figured they are the ones with the experience. Now I'm a little nervous.

Late Model Restoration has a kit made by ARP that I used on my 1995 F-150 5.8.

https://lmr.com/item/LTP-8501BHDW/F-150 ... tuds-Bolts

Just as a point of reference: I have the SWP Beams and radius arms, and they have the same issue with the alignment cams, exactly how you describe it. I have tried different brand ball joints with no difference. It almost makes me wonder if it was a jig issue or some difference between knuckles on m...

Thank you, it's a lot more rough looking in person. The I6 was a fantastic engine, but the EFI heads are known for cracking, especially if overheated; which is was happened when the switch for my electric fan failed and I didn't catch it in time. Engine still held up to a few years of abuse while le...

Hey guys, Long time lurker, figured I'd actually introduce myself. I'm up in northern Indiana where these types of builds aren't very common, however they oddly do exist mainly around and for the small Silver Lake Dunes up in Michigan. I have a '91 Reg Cab, Short Bed that I drove through college in ...

That 2-5/16" from the frame is valuable knowledge, that's exactly where I have my bumpstops set after trial and error with 35's on 8" wide wheel, 4.5" backspacing. That is of course stock fenders and inner fenders. If your building your own hoops/towers it is useful to have the knuckle/hubs/wheels t...

I have really appreciated following this build and am about the start working on a cage for a similar 91 regular cab shortbed. Do you have any experience to share on the thought process or pros/cons to keeping or removing the inner roof and B pillar skin to make more room for the cage?

If you get things refunded and start over; I ordered the Lightning Headers and exhaust from LMR.com (Late Model Restoration), they carry Bassani stuff and seem to be pretty responsive to customer service. BTW, for your info and everyone else on the forum, the Lightning version ups the header size to...

Definitely following this! Anxious to see how the combo works. Just found some '17 Raptor rear shocks for reasonable and was curious how they will keep with the 3.0 IBP King fronts on my 91 F150.

John from autofab called me back, but I missed it. So I ended up talking to Tiffany, she was very nice and helpful, but said they basically do not keep any molds that they don't make product from anymore, so everything in their catalog is what they have to offer. It's funny, in 2003 when I bought th...

I've been searching pretty far and wide, does anyone make a 87-91 front fender with a larger wheel opening, but stock width? (Similar to the Autofab ones for 92-96). I want to maintain the stock look of my truck, but add some clearance because the fenders are currently limiting bump travel by about ...

Well, I measured another truck with stock beams and the balljoint spacing all looks good. The cam seems to fit in the beam end fine, so it looks like the taper fit between the balljoint and the cam itself is too tight. The zinc coating is also pretty worn on the tapered bore already from just assemb...

That's a good point, but yes, I triple checked and the bore is totally bare steel. I'm pretty confident the movement is restricted at the CAM to balljoint interface, basically on the taper of the stud itself. Maybe the cam's taper is machined too tight, I'm just curious if anyone has run into this b...

I guess my question is, has anyone experienced this issue before?

I'm assembling some SWP beams I had. The alignment cams I'm using, I think they're Raybestos brand, seem like they sit high and aren't seated in the beam. The cotter pin hole to castle nut spacing looks spot on. The only thing I can think of is that the lower to upper ball joint spacing might off fr...

Good advice, thanks! Fortunately these beams had been cleaned up already and the bolts pretty much threaded in by hand.

Grade 8 of course

Thanks! Picked up some 3/4-10tpi x 1.5" long bolts, and with a washer they go just past flush of the threaded bungs inside

I'm mocking up a set up radius arms and beams, and I need to know the bolt size that fits the threaded collars welded inside the beams to attach the radius arms. Any spare parts I have are rusted beyond accurate measuring.

Thanks ahead for any help!